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Aux. fuse panel - best location ideas?

13K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  thuddles 
#1 ·
I just bought a Blue Sea SafetyHub 150 to power some of my extra goodies.

I wanted to hear any suggestions on where/how to mount it please.

I started making an aluminum plate/shelf for it that sits over the battery about 2". It looks good, and I won't need much wire to get to the battery. If I wire the accessories with some slack at the panel and direct them to one side, I could tuck that slack beside the battery and it make it so it lifts out and to the side somewhat easy if I need to get the battery out. Any relays used could be mounted onto this shelf too. I'll try to get a pic up of the shelf mocked in once I find a working camera, lol...

My stereo guy suggested I put it in a plastic box (project box or something) on the drivers side, on that flat panel where I assume the ABS stuff would go if I had it. I looked all over for a box that would fit both the fuse panel and in that area, which has been tough. The one I did find I'd have to paint black, and it would be pretty tight around the fuse panel, and I'd have to put any relays elsewhere (to the side on a bracket or something.) I'd have to either slot out areas in all the sides for all the wires, or pull it totally out each time to make holes for each wire used. The slot idea wouldn't make it overly dust/water proof at all, and I figure why bother with the box then and just mount it open there (with protection/boots on wires etc?)

Which of these ways do you think I should go with?
Thanks for any tips/advice!

:zap:
 
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#2 ·
Considering the fact that the fuse block you have is built for marine applications, it will be ok mounting it where you had originally planned since it has it's own cover for the fuses themselves. It may cause extra disassembly to be required when you need to change your battery out, but it should be fine. If you do put it there, I would make sure that you line the bottom of the shelf with a non-conductive material or make sure all terminals connected to your battery are well insulated to help prevent any possible arcing caused from the positive terminal/connections to come in direct contact with anything that is grounded. I would also make sure that the shelf is well braced so that it does not wobble/flop up & down, etc. & that it stays in place. I do like your idea though & you have definitely chosen a nice fuse block to use.

Your stereo guy does make a good point for extra protection from anything splashing onto the fuse block, especially if they use a lot of salt or sodium/calcium/potassium chloride on the raods in your area during the winter time. To route the wires in & out of the plastic box & keep it really water resistant, you can get some really good firewall boots from Quadratec & other similar sites to run the wires in & out of the box with. As far as the box goes, I get all of the ones I use locally so unfortunately I do not know of a site I could recommend to get one from. I will do some searches to see what I can come up with though.

Either idea will work just fine, it just depends how much you would like to protect these circuits/wiring/terminals & where you personally would like to mount it.

I do hope this helps at least a little :thumb:
 
#3 ·
Aiy, they do use a lot of salt here. :( He thought it would be easier to use overall (no having to move for battery, cleaner looking setup etc), though initial wiring might have some of the issues I mentioned. I'll look at the firewall boots you mentioned, thxs!

The shelf I was going to paint and back with some 1/8" rubber mat I have over the battery.
 
#4 · (Edited)
You are very welcome!

Definitely a good idea on using the rubber mat on the bottom of the shelf if that's route you went.

I do agree that using the box would make for more protection & a cleaner look though. If you do mount it on the other side, or anywhere else for this matter, I would recommend using no smaller, - (which would be numerically higher), than 4 awg cable to it for the main power leads to the aux fuse block you are adding. If you would like to go overkill for a warm & cozy feeling, you can use 2 gauge cable if it makes you feel a little better ;) This will ensure the power leads can handle the amp load from running multiple accessories. You may already be completely aware of this, but thought I would mention it just in case, but if you run too small of power leads to your aux. fuse block, the wires/cables themselves can heat up, short out, & possibly cause a fire in your engine compartment along with possibly damaging your accessories as well. I have actually repaired the wiring & electrical circuits on quite a few vehicles due to this. Just wanted to throw that out there just in case you weren't aware. To get back to your original question, IMO, I do agree that using the plastic box with rubber firwall boots would be your optimal option given the terrain/road conditions you mostly drive on. :thumb:
 
#5 ·
Hmm, I'm going to look to see if perhaps I can mount a box a bit higher on a shelf or something on the drivers side. As in that lower area on the stock pan, it'll be a pita to get the lid on/off on the few boxes I've measured for (and that I can get locally too) I've been messing with today.

I am going over-kill on the wiring, probably 2/0 or 1/0 marine cable, lugs etc for power/ground. Heck, I ran 10g for my headlights, lol ;) I'm debating buying premade 2/0 cables for the battery etc from Jeepersandcreepers.com or making my own, to go with this extra fuse panel.
 
#6 ·
You are definitely good to go then & definitely sounds like you know what you are doing. Always been a fan of overkill also :thumb:

Hope you find the right box soon, I'm sure it's just right under your nose somewhere, that's usually what happens with my expedentures, lol, I'll almost give up on looking for something & all of the sudden I look down to see that it's been there close the whole time, just overlooked it haha
 
#8 ·
It's a little different type of setup (not as clean layout, but bit more capable.)
SPod is nice but is limited to just 6 - 25-30A circuits. The box I'm running can have 4 high current draws up to 200A and still have 6 lower draw ones like the SPod, though I'd need to mount relays in addition to mine for the low current stuff, (with the shelf I made they would be right beside the panel, and if I go to the drivers side, I'll make a bracket to hold some there.) I can still run a switch panel like the SPod to control any relays as well, as that would be all light gauge wiring to control them.
 
#9 ·
I still can't find a suitable box :(
I'm about the just use this shelf thing I made and say screw it, and hope it lasts in the open under the hood, as I've wasted to much time trying to sort this out. I need to get the wire etc ordered so it's ready for when I finish up installing some of this stuff going to it...
On a better (?) note I got my phone working again, so can at least put up a pic of the shelf, lol ;)
 
#10 ·
#12 ·
After mucking with this for a bit, I scrapped my idea of the tray over the battery. Using the thick cable I had made, it was way to hard to route them, it would have been very hard to get at the battery for any reason even if I made the shelf 3-pieces with wingnuts. Way too close to everything like the stock fuse panel, fender, module on the firewall, etc.

I decided to mount it on the abs tray. If I go with OBA later I'll figure it out then. I'm still waiting on the main cables from the battery to the panel, but got most of the rest done.

I'll try to get a few pics up of the mockup I did originally and how I did it in the end on the other side.

Thanks for the help and tips everyone :)
 
#13 ·
Hello IcarusLSC...

Here is my set up for a JK not sure if this helps....

The Clear Box is my D-box (Home Made SPOD).... It has 4 reg. relays, 1 heavy duty relay for my Air Compressor, 8 bank fuse holder and 2 direct wires for my CB.... All in a water proof box.. Total cost around $60.....Here is the site I used to make it .... Thanks NeWereJK Jeep

"The NeWereJK Jeep" - YouTube

Its easy with basic skill any one can do it.....

Michael
 
#15 ·
Heres a few pics finally of me in the process of wiring it up, lol... Still a few things to finish up/loom/protector spray/wire etc:

2/0g for main grounds and power, and to my aux. fuse panel too; 4g to the stock fuse panel and alt.; military style terminals; terminal fuse from battery to aux panel. - all kinda overkill ;)
 

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#16 ·
Looks very nice and clean!!! i have a few questions, do you have a build thread? was wondering how much was purchased and how much was fabricated between the fuse box what ever its mounted too... I don't have much time so purchasing is more time efficient. Also, pics of your switch panel? :) thanks for all the help!!
 
#17 ·
Thank you. :) No build thread though, sorry.

Fuse panel is mounted to the plate that was there from the factory for the ABS junk, as my Jeep doesn't have ABS. I mounted the Hella relay holder over on the drivers side to an aluminum panel I bolted there.

I'm redoing the switches inside, so don't have any pictures. I want to build a panel like Water Dog made, but not sure on all the dimensions yet, or have the time :(
 
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