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Cherokee Purchase Tips

919 views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  MassMopar 
#1 ·
My son is shopping for a Cherokee Sport in the 1998 to 2000 range and being a bit more tuned into TJ's than Cherokees I am trying to get a handle on the do's and don'ts of shopping for a Cherokee.

Any tips would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Buy one from someone who towed it behind a motor home or find one completely stick unmolested. You don't want someone else's nightmare.

Same things you look for in a good used car. No RUST.
 
#3 ·
Like any 4 wd vehicle you want to buy , look under it and make sure it hasn't been wheeled . Look for rust . How many miles ? Does everything work ?Can you check for compression ? Lastly , there are places you can bring a used vehicle for inspection for a price .There are also places you can send a sample of oil and they can determine alot from the sample .Also look at all fluids and make sure they all look new . Make sure no water in the oil .Any rust in the radiator ?
 
#4 ·
some late 99 00 and 01 4.0s had a cylinder head prone to cracking if the engine ran hot

rocker panel rust starts from the inside in front of the rear tires

most in that year range should have the 8.25 rear axle but the d35 may still show up
 
#6 ·
Late model XJ Tips:

98/99 are considered the "best" years for the Cherokee because:
-High pinion front Dana 30
-Exhaust system is easier to work on
-No 0331 head

Avoid 2000/2001 XJ's because:
-0331 head was prone to cracking
-Low pinion front Dana 30 (much worse drivetrain geometry if you lift it)
-Some had "Cali" exhaust, with 2 pre-cats and 1 main cat and 4 O2 sensors!! Ouch. 98/99 just have 1 cat and 2 O2s, much easier + cheaper to replace

In general, the 4.0 will run forever if you keep up with the fluid + filter changes and keep it from overheating. The stock radiator and water pump generally go 100-150k miles. I bought my 98 with 125000 on it and immediately replaced the Rad, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sending unit, water pump, and all associated hoses. Should be good to 200+ now. I did it all with Crown Auto parts for ~$250 bucks but some people like the more expensive 3 core radiators (forget the brand).
Sensors that will go bad are: O2s, Crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, and coolant temp sensor. Most are fairly easy to replace, the XJ guys recommend getting Mopar sensors for the critical stuff because the off-brand sensors have bad reps. Good hunting!!! :beerdrinking:
 
#7 ·
Late model XJ Tips:

98/99 are considered the "best" years for the Cherokee because:
-High pinion front Dana 30
-Exhaust system is easier to work on
-No 0331 head

Avoid 2000/2001 XJ's because:
-0331 head was prone to cracking
-Low pinion front Dana 30 (much worse drivetrain geometry if you lift it)
-Some had "Cali" exhaust, with 2 pre-cats and 1 main cat and 4 O2 sensors!! Ouch. 98/99 just have 1 cat and 2 O2s, much easier + cheaper to replace

In general, the 4.0 will run forever if you keep up with the fluid + filter changes and keep it from overheating. The stock radiator and water pump generally go 100-150k miles. I bought my 98 with 125000 on it and immediately replaced the Rad, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sending unit, water pump, and all associated hoses. Should be good to 200+ now. I did it all with Crown Auto parts for ~$250 bucks but some people like the more expensive 3 core radiators (forget the brand).
Sensors that will go bad are: O2s, Crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, and coolant temp sensor. Most are fairly easy to replace, the XJ guys recommend getting Mopar sensors for the critical stuff because the off-brand sensors have bad reps. Good hunting!!! :beerdrinking:
Thanks, this is the kind of Cherokee feedback that I was looking for, beyond the normal how to buy a used car.
 
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