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Old 04-20-2008, 12:56 PM   #1
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coolant system flush

whats the best product(s) to use to flush my coolant system. i've got on of those little t things installed on one of my water lines so i can hook ahose up to it. but whats a good cleaning agent or something to use, also, will i need a neutralizer for the cleaning agent afterwards?

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Old 04-20-2008, 02:15 PM   #2
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try just water, many times chemicals effect the water pump seals causing the deposits around the pump seals to be broked free/flushed away. So after all the work & fresh (hoat) coolant, you soon have a water pump failure. After the flush, try to remove all the flush water from your system, (heater core/block/hoses/radiator) & fill with Distilled water & Hoat coolant, then you should be good to go....be sure to clean out your overflow bottle also.

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Old 04-20-2008, 06:52 PM   #3
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i agree, good ole hose is a good way to flush. make sure engine isn't hot when you start. i just add about a half gallon of straight coolant to compensate for the water left behind, otherwise you'll have a weak coolant mixture.
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:40 PM   #4
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If you want to use a flush use either Prestone 7 hour flush or a gallon of white vinegar, both will do a good job. The vinegar won't hurt the environment but then neither will the 7 hour flush, both dissolve the crud that builds up in there where the 15 minute flushes more or less blast the cooling system which usually results in water pump failure. I flush my 98XJ every 2 years since it was new in December of 97, I'm still on the original radiator and one replacement water pump, the original water pump went at 300,000mi.
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Old 04-20-2008, 09:05 PM   #5
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the original water pump went at 300,000mi.
Dang cheap POC.
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Old 04-20-2008, 09:54 PM   #6
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will i just replaced the water pump so i'm not really wqorried about breking crud away from the seal and causing leakage or anything.... but i know that just water wont disolve any crud/gunk, thats what i'm mainly worried about
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:39 AM   #7
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The first time I used that prestone it was an 8 hour flush, used it in my 82 S10 with the 2.8L. The rad tank was the kind you could look directly down into the tank, mine looked like the Howe caverns with the crap growing in there. Drained it the nite before, refilled with water and flush then went to bed, got up the next morning and rolled out at 5am for a service call in Syracuse NY, about 4 hours from here, drove up did the call an drove back, stopped at a truck stop for some food and popped the cap when when I came back out, looked like a new radiator in there, all clean copper and shiny solder and really nasty looking coolant. looked like a milk shake in there, got home and flushed and back flushed it, ran it thru a automotive paint strainer, the prestone back flush kit has a diverter that goe in place on the filler neck you can attach a hose to, and got a closer look at the crap it cleaned out, I was impressed, have used it ever since. Every time I had used one of those 15 min flushes I've ended up replacing a water pump within a month or two, the 8hour was recommended to me by a coolant shop friend of mine.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:21 PM   #8
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Don't forget to use "H.O.A.T Compatible" coolant. Fair warning, it's the most expensive coolant on the market. I bought a gallon last month and it was like $25 Read the label carefully and verify it. Some coolants say they are compatible for Jeep, but it should specifically state HOAT on the label. The owner's manual mentions it and the resevoir tank also has a warning tag.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #9
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thanks rich, where do you buy that at? i didnt see it at advanced auto.... MOz, what exactly is hoat? i've heard that mentioned before but dont know much about it. also, i've gotta 91 6cyl. does that have to be compatible too?
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:32 PM   #10
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also, i know theres a drain on the radiator and i think 2 on the block itself, one has a plug and one's got the temp sending unit in it. do i need to pull out all 3 plugs or will just one be sufficient, and which one?
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:41 PM   #11
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thanks rich, where do you buy that at? i didnt see it at advanced auto.... MOz, what exactly is hoat? i've heard that mentioned before but dont know much about it. also, i've gotta 91 6cyl. does that have to be compatible too?
Rebel, H.O.A.T. is a special formulation (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) that Jeep uses. I'm not certain all models require this but my '02 4.0L does.

Enclose is a good link that explains the differnt formulations.

http://www.baldwinfilters.com/engineer/pdf/05-2.pdf
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:48 PM   #12
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Rebel, H.O.A.T. is a special formulation (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) that Jeep uses. I'm not certain all models require this but my '02 4.0L does.

Enclose is a good link that explains the differnt formulations.

http://www.baldwinfilters.com/engineer/pdf/05-2.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=10

HOAT link...
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:49 PM   #13
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also, i know theres a drain on the radiator and i think 2 on the block itself, one has a plug and one's got the temp sending unit in it. do i need to pull out all 3 plugs or will just one be sufficient, and which one?
Buy a flush kit...
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:43 PM   #14
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So, what is this HOAT stuff and what benefits does it have over normal Ethglycol and distilled water besides make a really large profit for the manufacturers ? Just curious, at $25 a gallon thats alot of coin for coolant considering the zerex stuff is 50% distilled water which is normally $.99 cents a gallon at the store, that takes the pure hoat stuff to $49 for a pure gallon. Personally I would never run coolant for more than 2 years no matter how good the advertising.
Any sites out there that are NOT sponsored by the manufacturers that have an un biased evaluation of these wonder coolants ?
Oh, my two year limit is not based on the reports that you can use this stuff for 10 years or 150,000mi, it's based on the simple fact that if you keep taking ANY liquid from cold to hot 2 times a day it's going to break down and that includes distilled water, I worked around too many navy nuke plants to believe otherwise and in the case of those it's a bacteria problem, you can drink the coolant but it will give you the hersey squirts big time
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:49 PM   #15
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So, what is this HOAT stuff and what benefits does it have over normal Ethglycol and distilled water besides make a really large profit for the manufacturers ? Just curious, at $25 a gallon thats alot of coin for coolant considering the zerex stuff is 50% distilled water which is normally $.99 cents a gallon at the store, that takes the pure hoat stuff to $49 for a pure gallon. Personally I would never run coolant for more than 2 years no matter how good the advertising.
Any sites out there that are NOT sponsored by the manufacturers that have an un biased evaluation of these wonder coolants ?
Oh, my two year limit is not based on the reports that you can use this stuff for 10 years or 150,000mi, it's based on the simple fact that if you keep taking ANY liquid from cold to hot 2 times a day it's going to break down and that includes distilled water, I worked around too many navy nuke plants to believe otherwise and in the case of those it's a bacteria problem, you can drink the coolant but it will give you the hersey squirts big time
rich,

I understand your frustration. It's a PITA to find this stuff and it's very expensive. According to the label, it's a HD 5 year/150K mile A/F. So, strictly from a math point of view, it's comparable in terms of traditional A/F when you factor in the service life of 2 year/50K miles.

My background is mechanical and electrical engineering. However, I have a cursory knowledge of industrial chemistry and an understanding that mixing certain chemicals will give you undersirable results. Everything I have read about HOAT mentions that you should not mix with non-HOAT formulations.

I also have a fond appreciation for the simple fact that when the manufacturer includes the requirement in the User Manual and also places a warning tag on the system....we should follow their advice. Otherwise, it would be a suggestion.

After all, they are the experts right? Perhaps someone from Chrysler can weigh in on this issue and provide more clarity?
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Old 04-21-2008, 06:34 PM   #16
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rich,

I understand your frustration. It's a PITA to find this stuff and it's very expensive. According to the label, it's a HD 5 year/150K mile A/F. So, strictly from a math point of view, it's comparable in terms of traditional A/F when you factor in the service life of 2 year/50K miles.

My background is mechanical and electrical engineering. However, I have a cursory knowledge of industrial chemistry and an understanding that mixing certain chemicals will give you undersirable results. Everything I have read about HOAT mentions that you should not mix with non-HOAT formulations.

I also have a fond appreciation for the simple fact that when the manufacturer includes the requirement in the User Manual and also places a warning tag on the system....we should follow their advice. Otherwise, it would be a suggestion.

After all, they are the experts right? Perhaps someone from Chrysler can weigh in on this issue and provide more clarity?
I can agree totally that it is not a good idea to mix them, but my question is does jeep use some kind of special seals, materials or something that REQUIRES this hoat stuff or can you just flush it out and go back to normal coolant EG with distilled water ?
I have seen what happens when you mix that GM red stuff with green
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:03 PM   #17
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it is supposed to be better for aluminum parts. i hate all the new coolants out there. there's at least 4 different types, and more options on top of that. its just another way of making things more expensive and difficult. true, you should not mix them. if i ever owned a vehicle w/ that crap in it, after the manufacturer's warranty was up, i'd flush it all out, and use the old green ethalyne glycol.

take gm for example, dex cool coolant is required. gm usess rtv silicone to seal the valley in all their v-6 motors. dex cool eats silicone, over time, and every gm intake gasket valley leaks. i know many people who flush it all out and run green. and i am in the automotive repair industry.

i know they will have some great explanation of why you can't use green, and you have to use hoat. its a joke, just like another thread talking about chrysler stopping the 4.0 for emissions, bs.

don't believe what daimler tells you, if you look back this stuff probably didn't get into jeeps untill daimler got involved. what is so different about this guys 4.0 than the one in my jeeps, or everyone elses on here that came with green in it?????
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:39 AM   #18
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From my perspective, running on 45K original miles.... I'm going to follow what the manufacturer says.... You guys are more than free to do as you please. I'm not trying to convince anyone with my opinion, I'm just quoting information from the manufacturers...

My personal opinion, I would say it's a good bet that if you flush your system and start running something entirely different and DO NOT MIX HOAT and Non-HOAT...practically speaking, I think you'll be fine... You'll be out of warranty (assuming you had one), but you're engine would run the same with no appreciable difference.....

Mix the two chemicals and I think your asking for a lot of trouble.
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:06 AM   #19
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From my perspective, running on 45K original miles.... I'm going to follow what the manufacturer says.... You guys are more than free to do as you please. I'm not trying to convince anyone with my opinion, I'm just quoting information from the manufacturers...

My personal opinion, I would say it's a good bet that if you flush your system and start running something entirely different and DO NOT MIX HOAT and Non-HOAT...practically speaking, I think you'll be fine... You'll be out of warranty (assuming you had one), but you're engine would run the same with no appreciable difference.....

Mix the two chemicals and I think your asking for a lot of trouble.
Yea, I agree, luckily my 97's and 98's are not effected by this, it might become an issue if I buy that 4 door wrangler I'm looking at but I'll worry about that bridge when I need to cross it.
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:18 PM   #20
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Yea, I agree, luckily my 97's and 98's are not effected by this, it might become an issue if I buy that 4 door wrangler I'm looking at but I'll worry about that bridge when I need to cross it.
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:01 PM   #21
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I run plain old preston green in mine. The 4.0 doesn't care it'a a cast head and block so doesn't matter much.
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:40 PM   #22
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I hope you drained out all the old stuff. There was a guy on here a few months back that had a real nasty looking mess in his radiator.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:33 PM   #23
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Ya had the water pump out and flushed the block.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:19 PM   #24
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oh how i hate dexcool...... it's got a ""flush kit" per say installed. the little "t" that is on a water line where i cna hook up a water hose to flush it out but i dont wanna pull all the drain plugs if i aint gotta. but i do want to do it right / completely. and i still cant find the prestone 8 hr or however long. it seems to be the common concensus from asking around that that is much better than the 10 minture deals.
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Old 04-23-2008, 07:29 AM   #25
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oh how i hate dexcool...... it's got a ""flush kit" per say installed. the little "t" that is on a water line where i cna hook up a water hose to flush it out but i dont wanna pull all the drain plugs if i aint gotta. but i do want to do it right / completely. and i still cant find the prestone 8 hr or however long. it seems to be the common concensus from asking around that that is much better than the 10 minture deals.
It is now called 'super radiator cleaner' and the time is 3-6 hours according to the prestone site. http://www.prestone.com/products/coo...Treatments.php

You do not have to pull the drain plugs if you have the back flush T in there. Just flush it till it runs clear, run the cleaner then flush the system again, drain it, then add a full pure 100% gallon of anti-freeze, after that top it off with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and DISTILLED water.
Two gallons of pure anti-freeze and one gallon of DISTILLED water will do it, use the empty first gallon jug to make up your first 50/50 mix then dump the remainder of the distilled water into the other half empty jug, you will end up with 2 50/50 mix jugs.

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