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Old 10-31-2013, 12:15 AM   #1
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D30 experience

For those of you that have pushed the limits of the D30... What is the biggest tire you have ran semi successfully. Im not looking for it to never break. I know it will at some point but I have 2 of these diffs and I dont want to spend 2500 on a narrow D60 and I dont want to go full width cause some of the trails I run are pretty narrow and Im already 79" wide.

Im running 35s now and its held up for 4-5 runs. Im light on the throttle except in some mud and sand conditions and its an auto. I would like to beef it up well enough to run 37" boggers with a selectable locker. What has been you experiences???

Im gonna get chromo shafts for it after I go through the stock ones I have. If I do go through them...

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Old 10-31-2013, 06:24 AM   #2
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Mine held up great for years on 35's.

Now, in a much more modified state, it's holding up great on 37's. Zero issues thus far.

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:18 AM   #3
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Sweet! Thats what I want to hear! What does your "much more modified" include? Im planning on welding the tubes, trussing and gusseting. Full carrier locker and maybe the sleeving the tubes and like I said eventually some molly shafts and bigger brakes...
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Mine held up great for years on 35's.

Now, in a much more modified state, it's holding up great on 37's. Zero issues thus far.
Hey Imped, are you running a HP D30 or the LP? Im on my phone so I can't see your jeep profile
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:23 PM   #5
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Looks like an 04 TJ but that doesnt mean its still LP I guess...
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:51 PM   #6
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mine has held up on 37's for 6 months or so. It is trussed and the balljoints lasted 15,000 miles. running that big of a tire, it isnt a matter of if your balljoints will hold up, but when they will fail.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:53 PM   #7
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mine has held up on 37's for 6 months or so. It is trussed and the balljoints lasted 15,000 miles. running that big of a tire, it isnt a matter of if your balljoints will hold up, but when they will fail.
Heavy duty ball joints or stock?
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:45 PM   #8
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HP30 (majority of details are in my profile).....there's no way I'd spend a dime on a LP.

Bridge over the diff and attaching to both tubes for my upper link mount

Inner sleeves

C gussets

Aussie (I'd recommend a full case such as a Detroit instead)

4.88 gears

Superior shafts with Spicer u-joints (heat treated crosses)

I keep good Spicer ball joints and good unit bearings in it. So far, they haven't had a problem with 37's.

Steering--Currie drag link, Savvy tie rod flipped on top of the driver's side knuckle, and Blaine's sway bar link brackets.

I've bent a truss and broken a Rubicon rear diff on my rear 44 but the HP30 has been nothing short of reliable.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Heavy duty ball joints or stock?
The stock ones, should have clarified. Hoping these alloy USA joints hold up until I can get my kingpin 60 installed...
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:22 AM   #10
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Awesome! Im exited now. Im not to worried about ball joints, its a trailer queen for the most part. I figure If I do the ball joints and bearings once a year It should be fine. Wasnt gonna sleeve it at first but now I think Im going to just cause it will add so much strength for so little cost. And it will look better being a little bigger. Try to get close to 8.8 size...
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:10 PM   #11
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Inner sleeves don't actually do that much....extra dent resistance more than anything.

If you want to stout that axle up, increasing the OD of the tubes is the way to go. Some 3" x .25" wall DOM split down the middle longitudinally and them up. It makes a lot of sense if you're losing all of the factory brackets anyway....otherwise, it's probably more work than it's worth.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:11 PM   #12
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Good info in here fellas. OP and I have been discussing this in the YJ section so it's nice to hear from you folks with firsthand experience.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:24 PM   #13
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My buddy ran a HP30 as is pretty hard on it running 35's and 36's. He was occasionally breaking axle shafts and u-joints. He upgraded to chromo shafts and then starting breaking ring gears. He finally installed a 44.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
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My buddy ran a HP30 as is pretty hard on it running 35's and 36's. He was occasionally breaking axle shafts and u-joints. He upgraded to chromo shafts and then starting breaking ring gears. He finally installed a 44.
Good info. I was wondering where the weak link would be after getting chromo shafts.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:44 PM   #15
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Inner sleeves don't actually do that much....extra dent resistance more than anything.

If you want to stout that axle up, increasing the OD of the tubes is the way to go. Some 3" x .25" wall DOM split down the middle longitudinally and them up. It makes a lot of sense if you're losing all of the factory brackets anyway....otherwise, it's probably more work than it's worth.
Yeah Im stripping it all the way down and just putting perches and shock mounts back on it. Ive seen a few of these things bend and fold from adventures on the sand. I run the beaches and dunes quite a bit and have caught some pretty good air without trying.

Those damn razor backs can sneak up on you and the terrain changes all the time. One week you can run 55mph for 3 miles and the next week a little log will wash up and start catching sand in the wind and create a 3 foot mound in no time.lol
Before I got my 35s...
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:21 AM   #16
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In that case, 'clamshell' the tubes. You'll have 3" OD x .5" wall tubes, which will be nice and stout.

If you're installing new gears, have them cryo-treated first. This should help to eliminate the gears as being weak links once the shafts are addressed. A full case carrier such as a Detroit, as opposed to the factory case, will also help the gears last.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #17
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Whats the difference in clamshell and sleeve? Or is that a play on words? lol Definitely going with a full case locker. Im stuck trying to decide on shafts I guess. And my decision, I believe, is really going to effect the strength of the D30.

If I stay with the factory shafts, which I have 2 sets and a wrecking yard full of spares down the road for cheap. I need to leave the CAD stuff on the front end though which really gets in the way of making the d30 stout. But it will allow me to run a 500 dollar locker like a selectable... If I shave it, ditch the CAD and run molly shafts it will almost double my initial budget. Especially if I want it selectable and then I might as well save a little longer and get a bolt on 44 or 60 thats already built... Decisions decisions... Probably gonna cheap out on it.lol
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #18
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Look for a 2nd hand arb or something. I would always go for a selctable front.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:08 PM   #19
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I'll take a Detroit over an ARB up front......save the extra cash for something else.

Run stock shafts with Spicer joints until they are too much of a problem to bear. My bet is it'll be a while before they are.

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