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Old 03-24-2011, 04:13 PM   #1
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Diff fluid...?

I sound like kinda an idiot. What kind of oil/grease should i use to fill the differentials up?

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Old 03-24-2011, 04:18 PM   #2
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I use basic 75-90W gear oil

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Old 03-24-2011, 04:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
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I use basic 75-90W gear oil
Ok thank you!
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:31 PM   #4
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If ur not sure. Ask ur local advanced auto parts store
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #5
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Parts store found the right kind. 80w-90 gear oil
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:22 AM   #6
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Depends on what you're driving !

Does it have LSD/ tow/off-road/front-rear-

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Old 03-25-2011, 10:24 AM   #7
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I gotta 2000 tj sahara
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:25 AM   #8
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Don't use synthetic as it doesn't pull heat away from the ring and pinion.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:32 AM   #9
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Heh Heh, I didn't mean which jeep, but if you had modidied diffs/and LSD additive is needed for longevity/towing/wear-


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Originally Posted by Mikekaz1 View Post
I gotta 2000 tj sahara
Use synthetic if you want to, as long as its the recommended weight-I use Mobile one 75W-140 in my JKU-

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Old 03-25-2011, 10:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
Heh Heh, I didn't mean which jeep, but if you had modidied diffs/and LSD additive is needed for longevity/towing/wear-

Use synthetic if you want to, as long as its the recommended weight-I use Mobile one 75W-140 in my JKU-

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Ohhh haha. Yeah Its all stock other that a lil lift kit.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:40 AM   #11
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Oh Oh, a lift kit-well then -


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Originally Posted by Mikekaz1 View Post
Ohhh haha. Yeah Its all stock other that a lil lift kit.
You need a special elevation corrected diff. fluid, with a low barometer addition !!(made in China)

Heh Heh-I don't think I have to mention that I'm kidding !

Good day

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Old 03-25-2011, 10:45 AM   #12
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Hahaha. What a kidder
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
Heh Heh, I didn't mean which jeep, but if you had modidied diffs/and LSD additive is needed for longevity/towing/wear-




Use synthetic if you want to, as long as its the recommended weight-I use Mobile one 75W-140 in my JKU-

JIMBO
Currie did test showing how synthetic doesn't pull heat away.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:08 AM   #14
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Currie doesn't mfg "JEEPS"


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Originally Posted by Mortalis5509 View Post
Currie did test showing how synthetic doesn't pull heat away.
Chrysler does and Syn Diff. fluid (75W-140),is one of their recommendations for the JJK/JKU jeeps-towing/police/off-road-

Any Trac-loc diffs use synthetic fluid with additive !

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Old 03-25-2011, 11:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
Currie doesn't mfg "JEEPS"




Chrysler does and Syn Diff. fluid (75W-140),is one of their recommendations for the JJK/JKU jeeps-towing/police/off-road-

Any Trac-loc diffs use synthetic fluid with additive !

JIMBO
Agree.

Now we both can agree to whoever makes the axle it all has the same internal parts. Now with that being said it won't pull heat away and it doesn't matter if its a jeep axle or not (actually its a dana axle which I'm sure you know). The rotating parts create heat, period. A special test axle was built for the study.

Jerry mentioned it in a thread and that is where I mentioned not to use it.
Here is his exact quote: "I essentially agree 100% with you. But one caveat... after an excessive number of unexplained ring & pinion gear failures in their extreme-duty axles, Currie finally isolated the cause down to the use of synthetic gear lubes that some of their customers used to replace the factory installed conventional gear lube. It shocked everyone. Once Currie changed their warranty requirement to require (!) the use of conventional gear lubes and that the warranty would be voided with the use of a synthetic gear lube, their failure rate went way back down to the normal rare failure. Their tests eventually found that synthetic gear lubes do run cooler but for a TOTALLY unexpected reason... that synthetic gear lubes don't "sink" (extract) the heat from the ring & pinion gears as well as conventional gear lubes do. They had to build a special axle so the heat at the ring & pinion gears could be measured directly to confirm what their other tests were indicating. That's why an IR gun pointed at a differential housing indicates the housing is cooler running synthetic lube, because the synthetic isn't extracting the heat out of the R&P gears as well as a conventional gear lube does. That was a long-unexplained mystery that was finally solved. Again, it totally surprised everyone in the aftermarket axle industry. Other aftermarket offroad axle manufacturers besides Currie have also started requring the use of conventional gear lubes in their axles to maintain the warranty. "

Here is the thread as well: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/gear...d44-77525.html
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:54 AM   #16
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Use what you and Jerry want-I'll stick with Mobile one -


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Originally Posted by Mortalis5509 View Post
Agree.

Now we both can agree to whoever makes the axle it all has the same internal parts. Now with that being said it won't pull heat away and it doesn't matter if its a jeep axle or not (actually its a dana axle which I'm sure you know). The rotating parts create heat, period. A special test axle was built for the study.

Jerry mentioned it in a thread and that is where I mentioned not to use it.
Here is his exact quote: "I essentially agree 100% with you. But one caveat... after an excessive number of unexplained ring & pinion gear failures in their extreme-duty axles, Currie finally isolated the cause down to the use of synthetic gear lubes that some of their customers used to replace the factory installed conventional gear lube. It shocked everyone. Once Currie changed their warranty requirement to require (!) the use of conventional gear lubes and that the warranty would be voided with the use of a synthetic gear lube, their failure rate went way back down to the normal rare failure. Their tests eventually found that synthetic gear lubes do run cooler but for a TOTALLY unexpected reason... that synthetic gear lubes don't "sink" (extract) the heat from the ring & pinion gears as well as conventional gear lubes do. They had to build a special axle so the heat at the ring & pinion gears could be measured directly to confirm what their other tests were indicating. That's why an IR gun pointed at a differential housing indicates the housing is cooler running synthetic lube, because the synthetic isn't extracting the heat out of the R&P gears as well as a conventional gear lube does. That was a long-unexplained mystery that was finally solved. Again, it totally surprised everyone in the aftermarket axle industry. Other aftermarket offroad axle manufacturers besides Currie have also started requring the use of conventional gear lubes in their axles to maintain the warranty. "

Here is the thread as well: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/gear...d44-77525.html
-JIMBO
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:31 PM   #17
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what conditions were those failed axles under?
Conventional oil may be waaay better for removing heat, but at what point do u run into heat problems?
ALOT of people run synthetics and have no heat problems, so the advantaged of synthetic for them out weighes the dis advantage of synthetic oil and heat.

so what type of wheeling is done to generate enough heat that conventional is required?
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:59 PM   #18
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Heh Heh, I'm afraid there are some recommendations that Chrysler makes concerning the Jeeps they're responcile for, that I disagree with, but

At least my '08 JKU Rubi was mfg'd with the recommendation for REAR diff. fluids is--75W-140 SYNTHETIC grease, when used for Police/ Towing/ off-road use-and thats how mine will/is subjected to use-

Now they don't specify Mobile one, SYN., but they do specify SYNTHETIC, now I don't know if that continued thru 2011-

Thats my story and I'm sticking withit-

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:09 PM   #19
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Im using mobile 1 also.
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:24 PM   #20
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i just did mine this past weekend with RP 75w-140. sh**s expensive!
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_RPM View Post
what conditions were those failed axles under?
Conventional oil may be waaay better for removing heat, but at what point do u run into heat problems?
ALOT of people run synthetics and have no heat problems, so the advantaged of synthetic for them out weighes the dis advantage of synthetic oil and heat.

so what type of wheeling is done to generate enough heat that conventional is required?
If your driving down the road your creating heat. If the gears are moving they are creating heat.

I guess long wheeling trips create heat and depending on how much skinny pedal is used.

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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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