What have you done to start the setup for dinghy towing? Connecting lights, deciding on tow bars, installing baseplates, and knowing what to do to your Jeep to make it towable are all things that you must work through before connecting to mh and taking off. I have towed several different Jeeps several thousand miles behind a mh or truck.
Prtemp: I have an appointment at a hitch shop to install base plate for a Blue OX Tow bar. I was given a Jeep wiring harness from MOPAR to install that is supposed to activate the Jeep lights when plugged in to the MH.
I have heard that I must disconnect the negative battery cable each time I hookup and tow the Jeep. Is there a work-around to this?? Can I rig up a battery charge link so the Jeep battery does not drain while being towed? I guess I am thinking about the RV trailers that I used to tow and their batteries charged from the tow vehicle. Can this be done with the Wrangler?
Also, doies towing the Wrangler present any special maintenance concerns for any of the running gear?
While very experienced at towing RV trailers, I am new to towing a vehicle. Any shared experiences would be most appreciated.
I used to tow my TJ behind our motorhome for years before I bought the trailer.
The TJ is very easy to do with the ign. setting at first click: Steering wheel unlocked and no power on. I don't know why Chrysler did away with this feature on the JK's.
But, from what I have read on the RV forums, you have to either:
~Unhook the battery
~install a battery shut off switch
~stop every 2-3 hours and start the Jeep to recharge it's battery
Seems like if they wanted to continue to sell thousands of Jeeps to the RV crowd, they would of kept it the same as a TJ.
I have '11 that I tow now. I raised the front tires off the ground and turned the steering wheel from stop and stop and found that Jeep took the wheel lock feature off my model. I would test the '10 model to see if the wheel lock is not on it. I looked at one of the wiring harnesses from Mopar and decided against it after reading of many problems people had in installing the harness and getting it to function correctly. I tow with transfer case in N and transmission in P and the keys in my pocket. I don't have to worry about the battery. As for lights, I put a diode on each turn signal light , connected the tail lights into the tail light circuit of my Jeep, made a ground connection, and use a 4-wire flat plug for my hookup. I searched this forum and found the info on the Mopar harness, but can't remember where. If you have farther questions, I will try to help.
Thanks to all for the quick responses. I have hooked ujp the MOPAR harness per their directions and found that all lights function with no key in the ignition and that the steering wheel lock is not present. So...if the front wheels are NOT locked AND running, turn and brake lights all function with no key in the ignition, is it electircally safe to tow that way or is their a reason to still disocnnect the battery. Sorry I am so dense on this, but I don't want to screw up this thing many miles from home where I can't fix it.
I tow both my 09 liberty and my jeep YJ. It is my understanding that most states now require the tow vehicles brakes to engage when the motor home is braking. There are portable brake units from BrakeBuddy that works fine. The unit is activated by a sensor in the RV cab the sences when the RV is being braked. The braking unit plugs into the power source in the toad so you cannot unhook the battery They are not cheap. If your RV has air brakes the toad can be hooked up the that system. The last thing is make sure the hitch installer does not wire the headlights on the toad to come on when the RV lights are on, just the tail lights and the running lights.
Well, I towed it twice now. First time, I was leary and did in fact leave the key in the first click position and disconnected the battery. All went well and as expected. Second time was today. I put the key in my pocket and verified that the steering wheel was NOT locked. Hooked up. Went 200 miles and had no problems. Lights worked just fine and towed great. I was able to confirm that some 2010 models with Automatic Transmissions indeed were assembled minus the steering wheel lock. This is very crypically documented in a fine print note in the factory service manuals. Even the techs do not find it unless specifically looking for it. Thanks to a very willing tech at Just Answers.com. I did pay for the research and tipped him well because of his perseverence in finding the documentation. Consumer docs do not have this information. And thanks to PRTEMP for the tip on the steering lock. It forced me to research this from official sources. I am comfortable with the findings and will be towing my Wrangler with confidence.
I know when I hooked my my TJ for the first time, I triple and quadruple checked that I had the key, x-fer case, parking brake, and tranny in the correct positions. Just felt I was forgetting something..so I would re-check. Drove about 1/4 mile, got out and checked again. LOL
I have heard of instances where the transfer case wiggled into gear and had major complications. I always tow with both in neutral. Can't see any reason not to. The only rotation of the transmission would be the drag from the xfer case gears turning the output of the transmission.