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Old 07-15-2012, 08:41 PM   #1
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Everything you wanted to know about the AX15

Here are some great links related to the tear down and service of the AX15 natively mated to the 4.0L

Detailed Teardown and Rebuild (there are probably other links to this already)
Moses Ludel's Rebuild

Online Service Manual (PDF)
JeepLog AX15 Manual Transmission
*If the PDF site goes down message me and I can email it to you

Quadratec's parts and info sheet
quadratec.com


ok having given all that....

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the linkage externally? I have not been able to find anything specific to that. I did notice what looks like adjuster screws on the top of the transmission.. any idea to what they do?


As I find more info I will post it.

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Old 07-16-2012, 12:20 AM   #2
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Wow I wish I wouldve had this a year ago. I rebuilt mine 5 or 6 times. Everything I went together perfect. As soon as I put the case on The gears stoped spining. I think My case might have been warped. Anyway got a remaned and never looked back. One day I will rebuild an AX15. Oh The adjuster are to center the gear shifter when In neutral. Keeps it from popping into gear.

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Old 07-16-2012, 12:31 AM   #3
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so its not to the linkage, and by messing with it I wouldn't be able to tweak it into staying in first more often?
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:36 AM   #4
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Nope. If Im understanding right. I dont think youll be able to adjust it to stay into first. Popping out of gear? I think thats pretty common.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:39 AM   #5
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It does it randomly... and only in 1st gear...
Today I pulled the center console off along with all the dust covers, and replaced my motor mounts (tranny mount is next).. Im going to see if that gets rid of it then slowly put things back till I find out what if anything is still causing it.. the old motor mounts looked worn but not enough to do anything i wouldn't think.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:44 AM   #6
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I think the plastic bottom tip on the shifter may be worn out.

here is a pretty good write up First gear popping out AX-15 - JeepForum.com
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:52 AM   #7
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FANTASTIC! Im all about ideas that don't require me to drop the tranny LOL. I will definately check that tomorrow
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:55 AM   #8
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Cool man best of luck. I hope you dont have to pull it but they are not that bad to pull.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:56 AM   #9
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Add like 20 commas to what I just said.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:06 AM   #10
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FYI:
to remove the shifter there is a spring loaded retainer at the top of the shift tower. Push down and turn counterclockwise and it will pop right out.

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Old 07-16-2012, 01:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewampus97tj View Post
Cool man best of luck. I hope you dont have to pull it but they are not that bad to pull.
I just walked outside and popped mine off, there would appear to be some wear rings on it, looks like i will be ordering a new one.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:08 AM   #12
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Oh it might also pop out because of the BL.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:19 AM   #13
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i watched this one sunday. dude reminds me of Mike Roe
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:20 AM   #14
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Oh it might also pop out because of the BL.
Thats what I originally thought so I pulled the shifter boot off for a day and it still did it, but it may have also been that rubber sleeve over the shift arm, it had a bunch of tears in it like it was hitting.

so for now, I have the center console out, the shift boot off, the shift boot on the floor of the tub off, and the rubber sleeve off. There is nothing even close to being in the way now. I will drive it like this for a while and see what happens.

if it stays in I will slowly add components back until it pops out again.. in which case Ill know whats causing the interference and can then fix it.
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:40 AM   #15
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Im just going to keep adding info here as I come across it, having said that
Here is a how to on doing a fluid change on the AX15 borrowed from Moabjeeper

moabjeeper.com
*the link has pictures

AX5 or AX15 Manual Transmission Oil Change
Article written by Moab Man

Date Added: 02/08/2009

We're not really sure how it happened, but people seem to forget that transmissions need a little love too from time-to-time. And while they are not as needy as our vehicles engines, they still need a little maintenance.

Any moving parts on your Jeep need lubrication and maintenance. Changing your motor oil is the most common and obvious one, tie rod ends are another, but some parts are sealed and lubed for the life of the part. Manual transmissions are not sealed and lubed for life, but you wouldn't know it by how few change this critical lubricant.
Many first time Jeep owners will ask us about what they should be doing to take care of their Jeeps. Almost every time we get to changing the transmission fluid we are met with blank stares, and they tell us they have no idea how it's done. Fortunately, if you can change your oil... you can change the oil in your manual transmission.




Installation
1. Besides having a standard socket set, or wrenches, you will need an oil pump. While not a special tool; we do understand not everyone has one.

2. Of course you will need the appropriate transmission oil. We recommend **RED LINE MT90 (read why we recommend RED LINE MT90) for transmissions such as the Jeep AX5, AX15, or any other transmission with brass internal.
**Legal Disclaimer: The recommendations of MOABJEEPER Magazine are our recommendations based on our experience and education on the matters discussed. We would never direct you to supersede the recommendations or requirements of your manufacturer possibly voiding your warranty.


3. Locate the filler plug on the passenger side of the transmission. It is located halfway up the side with no direct easy access. Remove the bolt.

4. Locate the large drain plug bolt on the bottom of the transmission. On Wranglers it's located just ahead of the transmission skid plate.

5. Break the drain bolt loose so that it can be turned by hand, but don't remove or it gets really messy. Hold a funnel under the drain plug, and now you can remove the plug with the funnel directing the oil ahead of the skid.

6. Once the transmission is drained, put the drain plug back in.

7. Fill the transmission, using the above mentioned oil pump until oil starts to seep out of the fill hole. How much oil? The AX5 and AX15 use about 3.5 quarts. This means you will have a half quart left. If you're diplomatic enough, convince your buddy to change his at the same time and split the cost. RED LINE MT90 is about $11 per quart and you won't have any other use for that remaining $5 of oil in that last quart.

8. Replace the filler bolt.

9. A final word of caution for those that don't follow directions too well(that means most of us guys). On the drivers side is another bolt that looks very similar to the fill plug located on the PASSENGER SIDE. If you start eye-balling that driver side bolt, and you get the urge to remove it, STOP and heed the advise stamped on the bolt - "DO NOT REMOVE". There is a reason for this. The bolt is used to keep the internals of your transmission in there proper alignment. Additionally, the bolt is located lower on the transmission, and you will not have filled your manual trans to its proper level.


Installation Issues
Filling the transmission is awkward. Some have suggested, and we tried it, filling the transmission using a funnel and some hose. They passed the hose through the drain hole in the floor or through the opening in the transmission tunnel that your shifter passes through. Save yourself the frustration, and buy the pump we suggested earlier. Oil doesn't gravity feed down the tube very well, and it isn't worth the couple bucks you'll save by not purchasing the pump from your local auto parts store. Plus you're way more likely to spill some of the liquid gold Red Line oil and lose more money than you saved on the pump.

Final Thoughts
It is amazing the abuse a typical transmission will take as a result of no regular oil changes. With just a little occasional love, unlike the super-clingy constant love engines demand, your transmission will probably soldier on long after your engine has left you.
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:41 AM   #16
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can anyone backup what MoabJeeper is saying about RED LINE MT90? I know we have a lot of oil experts on here.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:58 PM   #17
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I haven't heard anything bad about that oil, but at the same time, there is a decent amount of other good lubricants on the market that work well also.

Good write up by the way, very good info
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #18
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In reading this is the conclusion Ive come to for oil preference:

The AX15 has brass syncros which can be damaged by the sulfur in many gear lubes.

You need a GL-3 or GL-4 specifically void of sulfur such as Redline's MT-90

End of story, its not really open to debate, use a lube that meets the requirements of the equipment without damaging additives.
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obidya
In reading this is the conclusion Ive come to for oil preference:

The AX15 has brass syncros which can be damaged by the sulfur in many gear lubes.

You need a GL-3 or GL-4 specifically void of sulfur such as Redline's MT-90

End of story, its not really open to debate, use a lube that meets the requirements of the equipment without damaging additives.
There ya go
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #20
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So I found an old service manual from the previous owner and it looks like they used GL-5... Does anyone know if I can just change it or if I should actually have a shop do a pressure flush and change it?
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:10 PM   #21
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You can change it yourself. Autos are really the only trany you really need to pressure flush because of the T/C ,lines, and transcooler.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:20 AM   #22
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** Redline MTL ordered, I decided to go with MTL over MT-90 because here in Indiana its not out of the ordinary to have a crazy cold winter.

last winter, even without a ton of snow, It was noticeably harder to shift in the low temperatures
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:24 AM   #23
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In the spirit of the more info the better...
here is a nice tutorial for swapping out the tranny mount from rockcrawler.com

www.rockcrawler.com
* the link has pics

Step 1
Be sure you have your parking brake on and the Jeep in gear (if manual) or in Park (if automatic). Also be sure to chock your wheels in case the Jeep decides to move. Remember, safety first! Also, be sure to wear safety glasses, as there will be plenty of dirt and rust falling from the bottom of the Jeep as you work under there. Place a block of wood on the jack. This not only helps it reach the oil pan on lifted Jeeps but also will spread out the pressure so you don't dent the pan. Lift the jack until you just barely begin seeing the Jeep lift. This is for driveline support only.

Step 2
Underneath the transfer case skid plate, you will find 4 bolts. Note that our skid plate has been modified slightly for an Atlas II transfer case so your case may differ just a bit. Regardless, you will have these 4 bolts. The bolts hold the tranny mount to the skid plate. Remove the nuts on each one.

Step 3
Remove the six large bolts holding the skid plate to the frame of the Jeep. Be prepared! As you remove these bolts, plenty of rust and dirt will fall all over you. Protect your eyes! We recommend loosening all six bolts almost all the way and then removing them by hand the rest of the way out one by one. Remember, once they are out, the skid will fall. Be ready, as it's very heavy! Bend your knees up to help support it as it comes down. Slowly ease it down onto your chest and roll it out from underneath the Jeep.

Step 4
The tranny mount is attached to the transmission by four more bolts. Simply remove them and catch the mount as it falls loose.

Step 5
Finishing the job is a piece of cake. Simply attach the new mount with the 4 bolts then the skid plate, then the bolt the skid back on to the frame just enough to hang it. The skid is the toughest part. Lay it on your stomach and using your knees for support, get it back up in place. If you have a gut, you can push with that, too. Finally, with the skid still slightly loose but in place, align the four mount holes and get the nuts on them. Then tighten the skid up to the frame and follow up by tightening the nuts down on the mount. You're done! Don't forget to remove the jack!

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