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Old 04-16-2008, 08:57 PM   #1
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How to join 2 rods together?

Hello, i'm trying to find a way to join two, 5/16"(diameter) rods together. Any ideas besides welding? No it's not threaded.
I have few ideas but i cannot find anything i need at ace nor home depot.

Thanks

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Old 04-16-2008, 09:01 PM   #2
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get a smaller piece of rod that can fit inside the rods you want connected.. sorta like a couple on pvc piping.. except on the inside.. and just drill holes and bolt it together..

what are you using it for? im not sure if that would hold up to a lot of weight.. might as well just weld the suckers together

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Old 04-16-2008, 09:14 PM   #3
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I'm sorry, i should have mentioned it, the rods are solid and are only 5/16" in diameter so you really cant drill through them. Because of my 2" BL and 1" tcase drop now my tcase shift linkage is short, i have it extended as far as possible but the rod is just not long enough so i need to extend it. It pretty much has to hold up on being pushed and pulled. I wish i had a welder but i dont

I remember seing something that would work, it looks like a pipe with a fat 1/4" wall and some set screws in it, this would work great but i dont know the name of what that is. As i said above i went to ace hardware and home depot and they could not help me out.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:20 PM   #4
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You can buy collars with set screws. They are nomally used to couple rods, motor shafts etc....... You might try Grainger on the net and see if they have something.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...cyxmg9GWOABt1Q
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:24 PM   #5
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Something like this but with few more setscrews together would be perfect (thats what i have in mind)

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Old 04-16-2008, 09:29 PM   #6
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The easy way is thread the rods for an inch, then go to the hardware store and look around for their 3ft threaded rods, somewhere nearby you will find a nut looking thing about 2-3 inches long that will correspond to the threaded rods. Then you just thread them together, use locktight if needed. I used one on my XJ to extend the spare tire threaded bolt that is attached to body so I could build a round container that would sit inside the spare wheel.
No I don't know what they are called but if you walk up to a Home depot employee with two threaded rods and say 'I want to put these together' he or she will know what you need.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:44 PM   #7
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Yeah i thought about threading it too but i dont have the thing to make the threads ggrrr, I sketched what i'm talking about here so if any one knows what this is called i'd be happy to hear it ? For now if this doesnt work then i'm thinking of getting a 5/16 ID pipe from the plumbing section and then with lots of locktite and few bends on the rod and whacks on the pipe to pound it on there.

I have a dremmel too so i can cut stuff...

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Old 04-17-2008, 12:54 AM   #8
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buy a mml.. take out your tc drop.. and if u need any tc drop after the mml.. use a washer or two.. tahts what i did
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Old 04-17-2008, 12:55 AM   #9
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2" bl and 1" mml.. i donno if i will have problems with that since i will need to figure out something with the radiator..

I know 1" mml + 1" bl works but i've never seen any one do 2bl+1mml
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Old 04-17-2008, 01:20 AM   #10
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ive seen it on another forum somewhere.. im sure you can do it.. didnt you already cut your fan shroud?
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Old 04-17-2008, 02:30 AM   #11
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didnt you put the transfer case linkage drop bracket in
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:05 AM   #12
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Go buy a $#$%$ tap and die set, thats one of those 'must haves', how else do you chase corroded threads ? Sheesh, I have one and on several occasions on a sunday nite they have been a life saver, making the difference between getting to work on monday morning or not. If you don't wan the whole set just get the die and the handle in the size you need, I only bought the set cause it was on sale at sears and I had a coupon ended up with a $100 set for $30...
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:31 AM   #13
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i had my dad cut, particle blast, and weld mine in 15 minutes :-P

sorry cant help ya but it works great with a 2" extension spliced in
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Go buy a $#$%$ tap and die set, thats one of those 'must haves', how else do you chase corroded threads ? Sheesh, I have one and on several occasions on a sunday nite they have been a life saver, making the difference between getting to work on monday morning or not. If you don't wan the whole set just get the die and the handle in the size you need, I only bought the set cause it was on sale at sears and I had a coupon ended up with a $100 set for $30...
Couldn't agree more. Even if you just buy one die in the proper size for your rod, couple $$ at the most. One long coupler nut and some thread locker
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr4x4 View Post
didnt you put the transfer case linkage drop bracket in
yup i have them in and my linkage is straight however the rod that connects to the adjusting screw that goes to the tub, is not long enough. Its all the way on the end but needs about half an inch more because now it cannot engage the 4 lo. It gets it in there but its just not enough to actually push it in 4 lo.
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:43 AM   #16
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Just get one of these.

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Old 04-17-2008, 11:03 AM   #17
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gggrrr you rich people
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:18 AM   #18
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gggrrr you rich people
Did you see the Atlas has some cable shifters?
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:56 AM   #19
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Nope i did not but sweet hhmmm that would be a good project
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:05 PM   #20
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Hell boss, for 20 bucks you could've looked in teh phone book already and taken it to a welding shop that would have it done for you in 5 mniutes.
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Old 04-17-2008, 05:03 PM   #21
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But he lives in Chicago, it'd be hard to find a welder.
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Old 04-17-2008, 05:23 PM   #22
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hmmmm..... tap and die sound like best choice. but jb welb POSSIBLY. doubt it'd hold up though. depends on how its applied
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:35 PM   #23
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So today i got a chance to take it apart. I found out that its actually 2 diameters. The smaller diameter is what slided across the adjusting screw and halfway, it expands into a bigger diameter and that is what connects it to the linkage part that turns. The smaller diameter is .315 and the bigger diameter is .375. I found a pipe that is a bit smaller than .375. I cut the stock linkage so now i have 2 pieces and tomorow at work i will sharpen the ends off and press them into the pipe (drowned in locktite)
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
So today i got a chance to take it apart. I found out that its actually 2 diameters. The smaller diameter is what slided across the adjusting screw and halfway, it expands into a bigger diameter and that is what connects it to the linkage part that turns. The smaller diameter is .315 and the bigger diameter is .375. I found a pipe that is a bit smaller than .375. I cut the stock linkage so now i have 2 pieces and tomorow at work i will sharpen the ends off and press them into the pipe (drowned in locktite)
You better at least get some spot welds on that.
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:48 PM   #25
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I got rid of the body mounted linkage & installed the Skyjacker linkage adapter that bolts directly to the transfer case, shifting is now much much easier.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:09 PM   #26
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I got rid of the body mounted linkage & installed the Skyjacker linkage adapter that bolts directly to the transfer case, shifting is now much much easier.
yup people have said that before however this has nothing to do with the rod.
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:06 AM   #27
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Hell boss, for 20 bucks you could've looked in teh phone book already and taken it to a welding shop that would have it done for you in 5 mniutes.
X2
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:18 PM   #28
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X2
The only weld shop i know around here charges like 40 bucks for a tag weld and takes like 2 days to do the job.

Anyhow today i went to work and during my lunch break i sharpened the ends on the rods and hammered them in the pipe. It went in quite hard so it appears it will stay. I installed it and it shifts better than it did when it was stock. I finally have 4 LO AGAIN

Pics later tonight since i dont have a blue tooth to usb adapter (it's on its way here ).
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:38 PM   #29
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so 4 low works and 4 high as well?/ i know i had the problem of when i had good 4 low my 4 high was shakey...and would pop out..
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:55 AM   #30
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Everything works, 4 lo, N, 4 hi and 2 wd.
I sharpened the ends of the rods and even then it did take quite of hammering to get it in there.
here are some pics





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