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Old 06-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #1
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In the market for a new jeep have towing question

I hope I am posting this in the right spot.
I am looking into getting a new jeep and am trying to figure out if I can tow my camper with it. I see that most new jeeps have a towing capacity of 2000 but you can buy a towing package to bump it up to 3500. My camper has a gvwr of 2800, dry weight of 2100 and payload capacity of 675. I hope this makes since. Just when I think I understand I end up getting more confused by the stuff that i have read. Thanks for the help.

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Old 06-10-2012, 10:39 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Newjeepguy11 View Post
I see that most new jeeps have a towing capacity of 2000 but you can buy a towing package to bump it up to 3500.
It's not that you can "bump" the towing capacity up to 3500. All 4.0L TJ's have a max 2000lb towing capacity, and 4-cyls are even less IIRC. The LJ's (long wheelbase TJ) have a 3500lb towing capacity.

If you're looking at towing with a 97-06 model, you'll need an LJ (04-06) with upgraded front brakes (Vanco) for your camper. A regular TJ will not suffice. If you're looking at JK's, I can't help you there but I'm sure the recommendation will be similar...long wheel base with upgraded brakes.

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Old 06-10-2012, 10:55 AM   #3
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I tow a 3000 lb boat with my 09 JK with 3.8 engine and 3.73 gears and don't have a problem. But i would not care to pull it long distance on the highway. It would be a real dog up hills and overpasses. Also JKs below 2010 do not have tranny coolers. You'll need to install one if you purchase a 2007 to 2010.
A 2012 JKU with the long wheel base and pentastar engine and no less than 3.73 gears would probably be fine.
We use the wife's Jeep Commander with a V8 to haul the boat over the road.
A pick up truck is always best for heavy towing.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:02 AM   #4
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Thanks guys for all the input every little bit helps me.
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:34 PM   #5
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If you want 3500 lb towing capacity you need to go with a 4 door that has the tow package.
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Old 06-10-2012, 05:02 PM   #6
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I tow a 3000 lb boat with my 06 LJ. I've put hydraulic surge brakes on the trailer and a transmission cooler and air springs on the LJ. Tows just fine. Without the brakes on the trailer it would be dangerous.
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:17 AM   #7
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thanks for this post,,,,i was just searching and getting ready to ask if anyone pulls a camper with there jeep...the wife and i have been looking into buying a camper and asked if her patriot would pull one when i told her that hers would not and my y.j. would pull one better than her,s and she laughed out loud and said i would,nt trust yours to pull it----lets go buy a new one---so a 4 door rubicon with tow package just may be in the family soon.. and i keep my yj ....and thank god the patriot will be gone even though i will miss the 38mpgs it gets.....but my wifes really needs to understand and be part of the jeep life style .....so maybe soon she will understand...
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:56 AM   #8
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One of, it not THE MOST, important things in towing is stopping. The brakes on the Wranglers are very good and have a good swept area for the size/weight of the Wrangler. However, it is still critical that the brakes on the trailer be capable of sliding the wheels on the trailer. If they can do that, then the trailer is not adding any stopping distance to the vehicle's.
If not, then you better go to a tow vehicle that is at least 1.5 times the weight of the towed vehicle or has excess braking capacity. From my experience, any towed vehicle over 1500 lbs should have its own brakes, but that is a personal opinion. I don't believe in surge brakes for several reasons, one of which is that you cannot use an equalizer hitch with surge brakes and any trailer requiring brakes should have an equalizer hitch setup also.

The 2nd most critical thing in towing is the hitch setup. There are a lot of opinions and judgements about towing with the short wheel base of the YJ. These are true and justified with a normal ball hitch only, or even an equalizer hitch without sway control. Once you go to an equalizer hitch with adequate sway control the short wheel base is largely negated. BUT I don't mean a normal friction, or shock absorber, type sway control. I mean the ones that will actually apply pressure to force the tow and towed vehicles into alignment. The only true one I know of is the Reese.

Without the sway control, I don't believe that any trailer should be towed that is longer than the towing vehicle.

Also, the YJ places the ball of the hitch very close to the rear axle. That shortens the lever arm that the towed vehicle applies to jack knife the rig.

Only about 20% of the tow factor is actually related to the engine/transmission/axle ratio factor. Most of that is just to keep up with traffic.

While it is much more convenient to have an automatic, most are not conducive to towing unless you have plenty of power to spare. The gearing of the automatic and its ability to get into the right power band of the engine are problematic.

It also depends on if you will be towing primarily on flat land, or if you will be towing regularly on steep roads with winding turns.

Even the 4 cyl, 2.5L, 5 speed is capable of towing safely far in excess of what the factory attorneys publicize. However, it must be set up correctly and driven according to its power band, etc. Those guidelines are just that. If you compare the ones in the US to those in seveal foreign countries, you will find the US to be far less for the same vehicle. That is especially true when you get to the diesel versions of the same vehicle that are available in foreign countries and not in the US.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:19 PM   #9
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thanks for your info,,..

i am sorry if i high jacked this thread, but it was exactly what i was getting ready to post ---so thanks to the poster and the advise
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:11 PM   #10
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I resolve my similar issue by just putting the Jeep in the camp trailer. Problem solved.

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Old 06-14-2012, 09:21 PM   #11
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Nice!!!

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