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Lockers?

4K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  whitebuffalo 
#1 ·
Allright, in my future, i'm def seeing some lockers. now, i know everyone loves a full detroit, but, i cant really afford a pair of those. SO, i will go with lunchbox lockers for now and if i grenade them, well, i'll burn that bridge when i get there. i dont do anything too intense, i just like to play. so....that being said....i've narrowed it down to (unless y'all can suggest otherwise) Detroit EZ Lockers or Aussie Lockers. The aussie locker is slightly cheaper, and claims to be a little stronger. anyone have any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
Lock-right, worked fine for me. The EZ from what I have heard is not built or at least was not built as strong as the lock-right a few year back. Do you plan to put it in front or rear or both?
 
#3 ·
If you just like to "play", I`d save a wad of cash and put something nice and strong in the rear, and let the front go for now-

Ive been in several that were locked in the rear with standard open front- they`ll hang with the big dogs. In all but the slimeist, climbeist(new word?), worstest terrain, a good lock in back does the trick well....unless you regularly lift a front wheel to the sky....
 
#4 ·
Throw some lock rites in the front and rear and leave them alone. If you want to beef up a lock rite setup then just get high strength pins. Those lockers will take a hell of a lot of punishment. The lockrite in my 44 came from a 44 that basically had the whole case grenaded around it. The locker is the only thing that survived and now it is doing well for me too.

Limited slips and things are cool. Buy why would only want to just hold hands when you have the chance to take her on home?
 
#5 ·
i wanna lock both ends. "climbiest"....i like that. it looks like the lock rights are priced pretty cheap also. i considered just getting a full detroitinone end only....but, since im not running very big tires, i figured i could get away with lunchbox lockers.....

as soon as a couple of jobs pay off for me.....ill be gettin some :)

"Limited slips and things are cool. Buy why would only want to just hold hands when you have the chance to take her on home?"

i like that. when i get em in....im adding that to my signature line LOL
 
#8 ·
Locking a rear D35 is probably not the best idea. I had the bright Idea to lock a D35 once. I broke the drivers side shaft about 4 hours after instal. The the following week, I twisted the housing on the tubes pulling out of the parking lot at work (spinning tire of course). Then after repairs were made I managed to strip a few teeth off of the carrier a week later. Needless to say my D35 didn't last long. Oh yea, my Lock-Rite was still like new.

I would use the $250 that a lockrite costs and buy a Ford 8.8 ($150-$300)for the rear. YJ right? They are super simple to swap and very strong. They are also easily found with limited slips and 4.10 gears. Just make sure you weld the diff to the tubes. Then take the other $250 and lock the front. The front D30 will live longer than a D35 Locked.

Currently I only have my front locked. (Waggy D44s F/R) I love being locked up front, the front tires help pull you over obstacles. I've had just the rear locked before and I like the front better. Steering isn't that bad either.
 
#10 ·
With 44's F/R it doesn't matter what tires he is running because up to 37's he doesn't have to really worry about breaking parts because of the equipment.

And 8.8's are about a half inch smaller than a TJ axle. So you will have .25" on each side. It is enough to barely notice is if you stand in front or behind your rig, but only you can tell if that will bother you any. But there are wheel spacers that will correct it. Everything else fits the same. Same wheel pattern, and if you have drums on the 8.8 then even the ebrake cables will work.

In my opinion a small price to pay for an axle that would beat up your current setup and steal its lunch money.
 
#11 ·
1BLKJP said:
With 44's F/R it doesn't matter what tires he is running because up to 37's he doesn't have to really worry about breaking parts because of the equipment.
i was referring more to when he tore stuff up on the 35. i've only got 31's at this point, and any plans to go bigger will be a ways off yet.

1BLKJP said:
And 8.8's are about a half inch smaller than a TJ axle. So you will have .25" on each side. It is enough to barely notice is if you stand in front or behind your rig, but only you can tell if that will bother you any. But there are wheel spacers that will correct it. Everything else fits the same. Same wheel pattern, and if you have drums on the 8.8 then even the ebrake cables will work.
i've been reading up on this swap and am pretty interested. i havent checked locally, but from what I've been seeing they run around $500ish. 1 thing that crossed my mind (not that its a big deal, just thinking out loud) is it seems like if u stuck with a SUA configuration, ur ride height in the rear would be lowered by the larger diameter axle tubes. also, im curious as to what if any driveline mods would need to be made. i know a SYE becomes neccesay with very little lift, but, didnt wanna pony up the money till i get a better idea of what my end product is gonna be. for now, im gonna say im gonna stick with 31s for a while, if i ever decide to go bigger, i'll do a SOA conversion. but, IF that happens, itll be a ways out....
1BLKJP said:
In my opinion a small price to pay for an axle that would beat up your current setup and steal its lunch money.
LOL....no doubt
 
#12 · (Edited)
i was referring more to when he tore stuff up on the 35. i've only got 31's at this point, and any plans to go bigger will be a ways off yet.
I had 33s on it when the 35 decided to fly south for the winter. If you plan on going bigger, then spending money on the 35 is probably not your best plan. When you go bigger all the money you spent on the D35 is gone. Spend the money on the 8.8 ONCE, and you never have to worry about it again.

If you plan on staying with the 31s then stick with the D35. You can also buy alloy axle shafts. If you lock that D35 then make sure you carry spare axle shafts. Theyre cheap and they will make sure you get home.

i havent checked locally, but from what I've been seeing they run around $500ish.
Theres a guy out my way that sells them really cheap. But... I'm in Pittsburgh. Make sure you call around for them. Rear axles are funny, some places will sell for $75 and some will sell the same exact thing for $500. When I got the rear axle for my 68 Chevy, I had one place tell me $1200 but I called around for a few more days and found one that was closer and only $150.
 
#13 ·
cool. thanks for the info. i found a brand new explorer 8.8 on ebay yesterday for buy it now 525, and another with 4.10s for the same price area (but had a couple days bidding left). brand new, disk brakes, the whole 9 yards. of course shipping is around 100 bucks....
i'll start checking around here for the time being. maybe just lock the front until i get a better game plan.....
 
#14 ·
whitebuffalo said:
cool. thanks for the info. i found a brand new explorer 8.8 on ebay yesterday for buy it now 525, and another with 4.10s for the same price area (but had a couple days bidding left). brand new, disk brakes, the whole 9 yards. of course shipping is around 100 bucks....
i'll start checking around here for the time being. maybe just lock the front until i get a better game plan.....
Look harder boss. They are a lot cheaper than that. I got one for a friend here in PHX for 250 with disc's. A guy has one on Jeep Forum right now in TN. for 275. They are all over.
 
#15 ·
you are leaf sprung so why the hell would it be 500 to install. a friends of mine got an 8.8 for 110 with 4:10s, limited slip, and discs. just gotta go look, pull it yourself and you will save bunch of money. i went with him and it took us about an hour and a half to find a pull one. since you are leaf spung...find a buddy with a welder and an angle indicator, buy some perches and do it all yourself, with everything you caould have it in by yourself for under 300, actually prolly around 250 if you find one with decent brakes. us cj and yj guys got it easy compared to the tj guys. one of my buddies with a tj bought an 8.8 with 4:10s and discs (no limited slip) for like 49 bucks on one of those weekends when the salvage yards like to run specials...well the brackets and all that jazz ended up being like 600 bucks, but then again there is alot more work involved in a tj with bracket location and suspension geometry. keep us posted on how things work out, i will be goin to pick up some one tons at the end of the month. so if ya need any other advice or help let us know.
 
#17 ·
TheJeepMan4804 said:
you are leaf sprung so why the hell would it be 500 to install.
no, ill install it myself. im no stranger to the welder :D so thats no prob. yeah, the 500 was brand new on the crate. i wouldnt pay that much, i was just saying for reference sake. 150 bucks is muy cheapo. i would jump on that like.......well, lets just say id get it
 
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