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Old 10-21-2013, 01:46 AM   #1
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No Sanding paint job?

I know this isn't gonna give me the best result as if I sand it and do it the conventional way.

But I live in an apartment, no garage and my jeep is my only DD.. So I need it painted in a day or 2. Sanding it in public ain't right, besides I can't paint it there either.

So I fancy a day trip to somewhere isolated and rattle/ roll/ vinyl wrap it.

Has anyone done a paint job, no sanding? Does it bond well? I also see some dude paint it over stock with chalkboard paint..

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Old 10-21-2013, 05:52 PM   #2
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Just get some red scotch bright pads and rub them on. Works very fast and the paint will set up nicely.

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Old 10-22-2013, 12:43 AM   #3
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For real?
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Old 10-22-2013, 01:05 AM   #4
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If you want the paint to turn out nice I would sand. It doesnt take that much longer and it could mean the difference between a nice paint job or having flakes flying off your Jeep going down the road. Prep is key. If you neglect to prep you'll just end up with a shit job and have to redo it later on.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:03 AM   #5
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They say you need to spend twice the amount of time preping then it takes to actually paint.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
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If you want the paint to turn out nice I would sand. It doesnt take that much longer and it could mean the difference between a nice paint job or having flakes flying off your Jeep going down the road. Prep is key. If you neglect to prep you'll just end up with a shit job and have to redo it later on.
1) so how long to sand the whole thing, including roof..
2) do I have to take the fender apart or just sanding it right on.
3) do I need a sand handler or just hand sand it
4) how deep do I sand it? Just scratch off the surface or..? I know not to sand down to bare metal, for sure.

Thanks...just wanna have an idea how much ore are we talking about...
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:03 AM   #7
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Best results are wet or dry sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. You can use a machine or hand sand it. just sand enough to remove the shiney spots and rough up the surface. Be sure to sand thoroughly in all corners and cracks.If you work steady at it it should take about half a day.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:32 PM   #8
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Use the red pads. They will remove all the clear very easy and it will be very quick. If u are going to sand only use 400 anything more is really going deep.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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Unless you are doing a custom lacquer job or2 or 3 stage base/clear paint jobs 400 grit isnt needed, 220/320 grit is faster and does just a good job. I always sand them first then go over it with a red Scotchbrite pad, wash it wipe it with a tack cloth and shoot it. No point putting base/clear on a Jeep unless you are going to an auto show with it.I have probably painted more cars than most of you have owned.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:31 PM   #10
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What about if you were going to line-x the whole thing... What prep is invoked. Same as painting?
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:45 PM   #11
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If you want apply anything over an a existing finish prep is still pretty much the same. With bedliner products you dont have to worry so much about minor imperfections (scratches and dings) but you need to thoroughly sand and clean all surfaces so the new material doesnt peel or flake off.It doesnt take that much longer to besure it wont fail.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:59 PM   #12
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Red pads. That's all u need. For what u want to do. That's it. Every body is a pro. The op just wants quick and easy.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:24 AM   #13
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I am a retired pro. Had my own shop for years. Never had a paint job peal but I have seen many that were just scuffed with red pads peel and flake. I use them but only after sanding to get to areas that sandpaper didnt get to.Why not take the extra time and do it right unless you are going to flip the car.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I am a retired pro. Had my own shop for years. Never had a paint job peal but I have seen many that were just scuffed with red pads peel and flake. I use them but only after sanding to get to areas that sandpaper didnt get to.Why not take the extra time and do it right unless you are going to flip the car.
So what do you say? 220, 320, or 400?
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:47 AM   #15
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220 or 320 then scuff onythind that you cant get to with the sandpaper woih a red scuff pad
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:48 AM   #16
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Just a thought...

When I was 14 (30 years ago) my dad and I signed up for a auto/paint/body class at a community college. They teach you how to prep, paint, seal, buff, etc... and we got to use their space each Saturday. Classes may be $100 - $200 bucks... but that's a pretty neat way to learn to paint & actually paint your Jeep. I don't know anyplace to get that cheap of a new paint job I've painted about 5 to 6 cars in my lifetime... the advice above is spot on - preparation is the key. Good luck!
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared66 View Post
What about if you were going to line-x the whole thing... What prep is invoked. Same as painting?
80 grit sanding, wipe clean, spray, done.

Obviously this is assuming no rust or flaking, if there is it just requires some grinding.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:59 PM   #18
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Quick and easy... Grey scotch brite preferably the Mirlon and some comet cleanser. Hose it down sprinkle some comet it on it and go to town with the scotch brite. Hose it off, blow it dry start taping it up and hit it with two coats of omni single stage, BAM. Done in a less than a day
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:29 AM   #19
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One thing that was only mentioned once so far.
just before applying the paint, go over the entire surface with a tack rag to get it as dust free as possible.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:54 PM   #20
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One more thing before sanding use a wax/grease remover. Otherwise you'll just sand that into the paint and the new paint won't stick.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:13 AM   #21
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Thanks guys.. I'll take note on these. If I can get access to a garage... Lol

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