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Old 04-22-2008, 07:42 PM   #1
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NSS bolt

So, this isnt a Wrangler but I know some of them have NSS (Neutral Safety Switches) on them...
Anyways I was taking my g/f's NSS off of her XJ this weekend and the bolt shears off! I haven't spent much more time looking at it so.
How should i go about getting the rest of the bolt out?
Does anyone know how long these bolts are?

She was driving it today and said it shifted hard and then the check engine light came on? Could this be because of the NSS or another issue?
Thanks in advance for any help!

BTW its a 4.0L w/ auto trans. and 4x4

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Old 04-23-2008, 07:29 AM   #2
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I am not really familiar with XJs, but is there a fuse that can be pulled to disable the NSS? In the TJs there is, it is on the panel behind the glovebox. You just pull the fuse, and no more NSS, you can start the Jeep in gear! If there is a fuse, pull it and see if the CEL shuts off, if not, I wouldn't think that the light has anything to do with it, just a coincidence. Good luck.

EDIT: I am apparently not smart enough to read everything that you wrote in your post. I was just too anxious to help! I don't know enough about the AW4 to be much assistance.

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Old 04-23-2008, 07:36 AM   #3
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You need a code reader to verify for sure, if the light starts flashing DON'T RUN IT, flashing CEL=A VERY BAD THING happened.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:12 PM   #4
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Does the CEL flash? I thought it would just turn on. The CEL turned on but didnt flash at all.
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Old 04-23-2008, 07:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotSoRedRubi View Post
Does the CEL flash? I thought it would just turn on. The CEL turned on but didnt flash at all.
It turns on for some things, when it flashes something really bad is either happening or about to happen. When it flashes get off the road and get it shut down asap. Go ahead, ask me how I know thats the reason my 98XJ has a reman jasper engine.
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Old 04-23-2008, 07:16 PM   #6
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Check the transmissions fluid level first. Hard shifts are the first clue. The AW4 is a very stout tranny, and even with 180k+ on my mom's XJ it running strong as ever.

Usually when a NSS goes out or is starting to go out, you need to put it into neutral to start it up. It doesn't have anything to do with the tranny while your driving.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:35 PM   #7
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thanks AZtj thats what I was thinking. I will check the tranny fluid. I was taking it off to clean the contacts so the reverse lights would come on, but in taking it off the bolt broke. Problem now is removing the broken bolt. I am going to see if I can take some vice grips to the remainder of the bolt this weekend.
Any other suggestions if vice grips dont work?
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotSoRedRubi View Post
thanks AZtj thats what I was thinking. I will check the tranny fluid. I was taking it off to clean the contacts so the reverse lights would come on, but in taking it off the bolt broke. Problem now is removing the broken bolt. I am going to see if I can take some vice grips to the remainder of the bolt this weekend.
Any other suggestions if vice grips dont work?
Soak it with power blaster for a few days before trying to remove it, next step would be a blue wrench, I will mention in passing that I don't recommend an easy out, they are anything but and if it breaks you have your work cut out. If worse comes to worse, drill it out and retap it. I'd rather drill a broken bolt than an easy out any day.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:11 PM   #9
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blue wrench?
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotSoRedRubi View Post
blue wrench?
blue wrench is a torch.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:48 PM   #11
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Many times if you apply point heat it will break them loose. Careful with the combination of Powerblaster and a torch though. PB will burn/ignite.
The reason they get so tight is from galvanic action between the aluminum case and the steel bolt. One of the reasons I use copper based anti-seize vs the aluminum anti-seize.
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:56 PM   #13
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If there is part of it sticking out, take a larger nut that fits on the stud tight and weld the nut on the stud, a tack on the top side of the nut works well. The heat will loosen the stud and than soak it real well. An old engine builder showed me this trick and I've used it a couple times and seems to work well
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:35 PM   #14
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If there is part of it sticking out, take a larger nut that fits on the stud tight and weld the nut on the stud, a tack on the top side of the nut works well. The heat will loosen the stud and than soak it real well. An old engine builder showed me this trick and I've used it a couple times and seems to work well
That works great if you have access to a welder or a friend who has one.
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Old 04-24-2008, 08:04 PM   #15
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used PB and the old nut trick! thanks!

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