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Old 06-14-2008, 10:59 PM   #1
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Pinion Preload Question

Still a newb in axles, but (I hope) I'm catching up.

Putting together my rear axle (a 14 bolt) and had a clarification question.

As I understand it, pinion preload is the amount of torque necessary on the pinion nut to cause the pinion as a whole to have resistance when turned. This can be measured by the force it takes to sustain pinion rotation.

So, if I got this right, I should torque the nut down to where it takes a consistent 25-35 in/lbs of force to turn it freely. If it reads less, tighten more. If it reads more, disassemble, replace the crush sleeve, and start over.

'bout right? or am I totally off?

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Old 06-15-2008, 07:15 AM   #2
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I thought the 14 bolt used shims for preload and not a crush sleeve.I may be wrong don't know much about 14 bolts. All axles are different.
this may help
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

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Old 06-15-2008, 07:17 AM   #3
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Also if it uses a crush sleeve during set up you can set the preload with out installing the crush sleeve. Don't put it in till final assembly.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:53 AM   #4
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i don't know about setting preload without crush sleeve. it if has a crush sleeve you are right on rkter, but it requires a dial indicator in/lb torque wrench. not a click wrench.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rketr View Post
Still a newb in axles, but (I hope) I'm catching up.

Putting together my rear axle (a 14 bolt) and had a clarification question.

As I understand it, pinion preload is the amount of torque necessary on the pinion nut to cause the pinion as a whole to have resistance when turned. This can be measured by the force it takes to sustain pinion rotation.

So, if I got this right, I should torque the nut down to where it takes a consistent 25-35 in/lbs of force to turn it freely. If it reads less, tighten more. If it reads more, disassemble, replace the crush sleeve, and start over.

'bout right? or am I totally off?
correct i beleive. IIRC, we used the old crush sleeve to set everything up, then, during final assembly, put in the new crush sleeve. it takes a butt-load to crush it, so dont get too excited with the impact or u'll be going through crush sleeves like a fat kid thru ho hos
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:41 AM   #6
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Ive done it and read it online that you can set the preload with out the crush sleeve and then use it for finall assembly. it works fine.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:25 PM   #7
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Ive done it and read it online that you can set the preload with out the crush sleeve and then use it for finall assembly. it works fine.
Hmmm...maybe on a different axle...the 14 bolt's crush sleeve is within the pinion housing between two bearings. You can see it thru the oil port of the pinion housing, but I can't think of a way to add it after setting the pinion in place.

To that, just found out that the pinion that came with the kit is totally wrong! It is too big and the threads are too course. It slips over the pinion threads all the way down with no resistance. I'm a little (!!!) pissed about it. If the nut is wrong, is any of the rest of the kit invalid? *sigh* Gotta call 4WP tomorrow to see WTF...

Pissy part is that I had set aside the whole day to finish the axle. All that is screwed...
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:55 PM   #8
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ya during set up when doing pinion depth, backlash and getting the pattern you can leav it out till finall assembly.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 06-15-2008, 04:29 PM   #9
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All your questions have been answered already.
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Old 06-15-2008, 04:32 PM   #10
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i've always reused the pinion bearing shim, under the inner bearing on a crush sleeve axle. i don't see any reason to put it together more than once. press off the old inner bearing to get the shim, use that. then install on new pinion, press on the bearing, and put it in, and set the preload, done. then set the backlash w/ the carrier. they even did it this way on extreme 4x4 yesterday. i've never had a problem, done many.

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