Por-15 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > General Jeep Discussions > General Jeep Discussion

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-11-2009, 09:29 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
Por-15

hey everyone, i've accomplished 2 of the 3 major projects that i have planned to accomplish this summer. the last one has to deal with underneath the jeep and all the nice rust. being in maine this poor thing has taken a beating. the frame is still strong and thick, but i want to get it taken care of once for all so i "never" have to worry about it again. I'm definitely going with POR-15.

a quart should be enough to take care of everything underneath there? I plan to do basically anything that doesn't move. i'm assuming that two coats would probably be needed. So maybe a quart and pint of the 15 along with the quarts of prep spray? then spray over it with rubberized uncoating. Lastly, i'm concerned about the chasis rusting from the inside out. my neighbor was telling me about cleaning it out(pressure washer, air hose) and then throwing penofin oil in there? its an oil used on wood and seems to be pretty prestigeous. why not just some used motor oil or maybe something else? if any of you have experience i would appreciate some feedback and pointers!

__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-15-2009, 09:49 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
touche.

__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-22-2009, 08:57 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
got the job done. bought two quarts but only used a quart of silver preventative. for everything, INcluding two coats. did the frame, axles, differentials, sway and track bars, sway joints, exc....

Before: with the POR15 coated onto the body

Click image for larger version

Name:	kyles jeep stuff and misc. 033.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	112.0 KB
ID:	9915
Click image for larger version

Name:	kyles jeep stuff and misc. 034.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	113.4 KB
ID:	9916

After: final gloss black coat

Click image for larger version

Name:	kyles jeep stuff and misc. 037.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	114.7 KB
ID:	9917
Click image for larger version

Name:	kyles jeep stuff and misc. 038.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	115.6 KB
ID:	9918

I still have some touch up spots to hit and the tops of both of the back differntial plates, but she's pretty much done. I might do some other stuff too with a smaller paintbrush. IMO its a waste of time and effort to POR the tub in b/w the frame, since it pretty much already has a coating on it right out of the factory. I'll spray all that with some rubber undercoating.
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-11-2009, 07:21 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Ej132's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Posts: 136
When you finish the rubber undercoating put up some pictures. Very interested in doing this, I got a lot of rust from the Michigan roads here.
Ej132 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-14-2009, 10:52 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
jeep27190's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Brooklyn Park, Minnesota
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ej132 View Post
When you finish the rubber undercoating put up some pictures. Very interested in doing this, I got a lot of rust from the Michigan roads here.
same here in Minnesota
__________________
I'm a college student on a college budget. If I roll my jeep, I'm screwed.
jeep27190 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-17-2009, 07:40 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
beardown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 588
i used por - 15 a lot and it is miracle stuff-- when it came time for me to do the frame i used "chassis saver" which was a bit cheaper thn the por-15 and since it required a lot i thought it would be worth it,, it worked great- i do, however think the por-15 is a bit tougher, not uv protected though
beardown is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-17-2009, 09:34 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 44
Rust

Just a couple of questions for you guys in the northeast with rust issues. How often do your run your jeeps through an undercarriage wash during the winter? In Utah, we use alot of salt on our roads. My TJ Rubi is awesome in heavy snow, but during the bad parts of winter I'll run my jeep through an automatic wash with an undercarriage sprayer every two weeks. I try to keep everything really clean. Mainly asking to find out how much of an issue I will have in the future. Additionally, during the winter I only drive the TJ during winter storms. If the roads clear up a bit, I use my car, so it's not constant winter driving in the jeep.

I bought my jeep almost one year ago exactly, only had 6,600 miles on it, one owner elderly couple that never took it off road. The undercarriage and frame all look clean. Should I wait till 2011 when the corrosion warranty expires to have the undercarriage rustproofed? Was planning on having a local automotive rust-proofing/bodywork company take care of it and the inside of the frame then.

Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.
needaglock is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-17-2009, 10:04 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
05GT-O.C.D.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,415
I just Herculined the inside of my tub. It gave me an excuse to be in the garage for two days. This would be a great next project for the next time my wife pisses me off. How is the POR-15 applied? How difficult and/or how much of a pain in the butt was it to do? Did you put the Jeep in the air?
Thanks, from NE Ohio, Western Rust Belt.
__________________
When my time comes, mix my ashes with gunpowder encased in brass, point me towards murderer's and pedophile's and let me fly.

(: ˇ ɹǝʌo ǝɯ 11oɹ ...sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
05GT-O.C.D. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-18-2009, 06:25 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
jdhallissey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Gurnee,IL
Posts: 5,104
Send a message via AIM to jdhallissey
Needaglock in IL they don't run the automatic washers or any washers of that sort during the winter unless it will be above 20 degrees for a week. Everything freezes out here so fast with the wind and cold. So I get to spray out the jeep maybe once a month. I would suggest getting a pressure washer and doing it yourself.
__________________
Know nothing SPEAK on everything

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccain View Post
Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
jdhallissey is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-18-2009, 06:50 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
kellyjo29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: In the 'thumb' of Michigan.
Posts: 54
The POR stuff is awesome! Just be sure and wear OLD clothes and tarp your floor because that stuff isn't going to be cleaned up with anything!!!
kellyjo29 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-18-2009, 07:46 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
beardown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 588
if you are using the por-15 on rust then get the "metal ready" that they also make.. dont worry about the marine clean cause any household cleaner will do what it does.. it is very easy to use and works- remember not uv protected
beardown is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2009, 11:00 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
Jeepzcb09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: springfield,OH
Posts: 714
can someone explain what POR1 is? And What is the steps in putting it on?
__________________
1998 Tj Sport: Rough Country,MetalCloak,GoodYear,Alpine,Crager,AtoZ

Check out my band:AfterTatse2010.webs
Jeepzcb09 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2009, 11:26 AM   #13
Jeeper
 
beardown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 588
por 1 or por 15? i think their por 1 is a high temp paint and have not heard good things about it-- 15 is paint over rust, it encapsulates the rust and prevents the rusty spot or part from getting any worse- you can literally take a hammer to it and it wont chip, follow their steps with the metal ready before you apply the por15-- basic steps=1-sand scrape off as much surface rust as possible, 2-clean off all existing paint and grease (household cleaner will do)3-rinse w warm water 4-let air dry 5-spray on metal ready and let dry for at least 30 mins 6-rinse with warm water and let air dry 7-paint on the por15- i do 2 coats,,, go over with a uv protectant if gonna be in sun
beardown is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2009, 11:59 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
Jeepzcb09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: springfield,OH
Posts: 714
about how much does this cost? and yes i ment POR 15 in my other post!
__________________
1998 Tj Sport: Rough Country,MetalCloak,GoodYear,Alpine,Crager,AtoZ

Check out my band:AfterTatse2010.webs
Jeepzcb09 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2009, 12:14 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
beardown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 588
you can get it for about 35-40 per quart and another 15 for some metal ready- pretty expensive-- also check out "chassis saver" as an option, youd still have to get the metal ready but the actual paint is about 25-30, i think the por is maybe a little better but not much
beardown is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 03:04 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
Quote:
Originally Posted by 05GT-O.C.D. View Post
I just Herculined the inside of my tub. It gave me an excuse to be in the garage for two days. This would be a great next project for the next time my wife pisses me off. How is the POR-15 applied? How difficult and/or how much of a pain in the butt was it to do? Did you put the Jeep in the air?
Thanks, from NE Ohio, Western Rust Belt.

To apply:

1)go over everything that you might want to paint with a wirebrush and then spray off all the dust and let dry
2)Marine clean it let sit for 15-20 mins then wash it all off and let it completely dry
3) Metal Ready it let it sit for 15-20 mins make sure the surface is always moist and doesn't dry too soon! spray it off, let it completely bone dry!
4) start the painting
5) when the first coat is tacky, start the second, at my rate when i finished everything with the first coat i was ready to add the second.
6) let it dry till slightly tacky then top coat it with spray paint if desired..


a little repetitive, buts its worth doing it right! cover yourself if you don't want it on you. took a week and half to scrub off. used a quart for two coats on what i did. and just did it by lying underneath her out in the lawn. I got the three step process kit from POR15outlet on ebay and then added another quart for the bumper and stuff i missed. the quart of metal ready will get you through the first quart of paint but then you're gonna have to get another one online or at a carquest or napa for $15
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 05:51 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
scrambler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: vermont
Posts: 486
Yes you need to top coat to make it last.
I finished a frame up on my 94' YJ and POR 15'd the frame underneath the tub and inside the tub before I Durabaked it. I top coated with two coats of Rustoleum. The stuff is great.
__________________
94' wrangler 4 cyl. 5 speed D30/8.8 ARB
82' scrambler 350 TBI/700r4 D30/Currie 9"
07' JK sahara
Whats the deal with the facebook crap?? ->->->->
Grown men should NOT be on Facebook.
scrambler1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 07:03 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler1 View Post
Yes you need to top coat to make it last.

I might agree to disagree with ya on that scramber, if you follow the 3-step process and do everything correctly, you'll be mint. the paint is not UV resistant, but the durability and quality of the product will not parish. The paint color will just start to discolor. i think its just recomended to top coat it. ofcourse POR15 themselves recommend their own stuff but i also used gloss black rustoleum to get the job done
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 07:12 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
Levinoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jeffersontown
Posts: 5,540
Could you just use rhino liner or equivalent as a top coat? Or would rhino not want to stick well to Por15?
__________________

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
Levinoss is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 07:50 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
mm good question. i would think that you'd be fine to top coat the liner right over it, but if you have the POR-15 on, i don't think that the liner is gonna do much that the POR15 wouldn't already be doing. i think you might just be wasting money. although, i didn't put any 15 way up on the tub in between the frame, that wasn't rusted and looked to have been sprayed right in the factory, that stuff could be rhino lined.
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 08:14 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
Levinoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jeffersontown
Posts: 5,540
I meant on the inside of the tub.
__________________

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
Levinoss is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 09:07 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
aaahhhh..... huh never really considered POR15ing the top of the tub unless it was really rusted. i have a carpet on my '97 and when i take it up every now and then the paint looks great. i would think that if you didn't have a huge rust issue then sanding the tub down and throwing on liner would be fine w/o 15 isn't anything to worry about. POR15 adheres best to rusted surfaces, and if you're not throwing the stuff on a rusted surface, its really important to use the 3 step process because it preps the paint properly by greating a cross-hatch etch pattern surface for the paint to really bond with.
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 09:13 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
Levinoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jeffersontown
Posts: 5,540
It just has a little surface rust around the pass drain plug and starting to get little specs of rust around the dips in the floor boards. Wasn't sure if Rhinoliner would seal and stop the rest from getting worse.
__________________

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
Levinoss is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 09:27 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
kdukes4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 679
it wouldn't stop the rust but would slow it down due to the prevention of oxidation from the liner itself. IMO, the main ingredient for the POR15 success draws from step 2, the Metal Ready spray, which you can get for $15 a quart. that stuff neutralizes the rust and prevents it from spreading. that's the stuff you want. you could put that to it first and then rhino line. BUT, i don't know how well rhino adheres to corroded surfaces. POR15 loves it! but not sure about the liner. you could sand everything down first then neutralize it and rhino over it? that would be a lot cheaper then the whole 3 step process and then liner.
__________________
'04 tj, d44s & arb's
kdukes4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-25-2009, 09:31 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Levinoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Jeffersontown
Posts: 5,540
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdukes4 View Post
it wouldn't stop the rust but would slow it down due to the prevention of oxidation from the liner itself. Imo, the main ingredient for the por15 success draws from step 2, the metal ready spray, which you can get for $15 a quart. That stuff neutralizes the rust and prevents it from spreading. That's the stuff you want. You could put that to it first and then rhino line. But, i don't know how well rhino adheres to corroded surfaces. Por15 loves it! But not sure about the liner. You could sand everything down first then neutralize it and rhino over it? That would be a lot cheaper then the whole 3 step process and then liner.
k
__________________

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
Levinoss is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-26-2009, 12:28 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
scrambler1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: vermont
Posts: 486
I had a 86 k 2500 That I did a frame up on used the 3 part system on the frame did not topcoat. within 1 year it started to fade. within 2 years it was flat no shine. But it did still do its job.
The last 2 jeeps I have done I have done the same,but scuffed and topcoated no problems
__________________
94' wrangler 4 cyl. 5 speed D30/8.8 ARB
82' scrambler 350 TBI/700r4 D30/Currie 9"
07' JK sahara
Whats the deal with the facebook crap?? ->->->->
Grown men should NOT be on Facebook.
scrambler1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-15-2012, 09:08 PM   #27
Newb
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
my POR-15 experience

In the middle of a frame swap on my 97 TJ.. original was so rusty that the passenger side rear control arm mount let go completely... rusted from inside out and just tore when i hit a bump... managed to find a 02 frame that was rust free. a low mile roll over I guess.. anyways, I washed it by hand with a wet rag just to free up pollen and dust, air dried it for 2 days in 80+ degree heat, then POR'd it top to bottom, 1 coat. Looks great. The frame still had the flat black factory coat so I just brushed over that. (self leveling paint, dried with no brush marks, just a couple bristles...) needless to say, I hit it in a couple inconspicuous spots with a hammer, didn't even budge the POR. Did the axles today. I'll probably throw some flat black primer on it before winter as an added salt defense. I'm going to use the eastwood internal frame coating in the inside. Stuff is basically POR-15, but in a can with a long tube to fish in the holes of the frame. Gunna drill a couple drain holes so keep the inside from getting an sediment when I rinse. Pretty confident this frame will last a long, long time.

csalev3 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:22 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC