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Old 01-20-2014, 07:50 PM   #1
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replacing a wheel stud

I inherited a cross threaded lug nut from the PO of my '07. While rotating tires today, I broke off the stud. It's on the front.
It's been about 2 decades since I've replaced one.

As I recall;

Remove wheel and rotor. A few well placed blows with a big hammer takes the broken stud out and use a stack of oiled washers and nut to seat the new one.

Am I missing anything important?

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Old 01-20-2014, 08:30 PM   #2
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That's how I did mine

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Old 01-20-2014, 08:59 PM   #3
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Thanks

Looks like my memory is still functioning. I hope my knees hold up to another workout with the Jeep!
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:04 PM   #4
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Impact helps with the time you spend down there on your knees. Or a roller seat.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:09 PM   #5
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Impact helps with the time you spend down there on your knees. Or a roller seat.
Got both. Thanks!

couple beers help after...
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:48 AM   #6
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Got both. Thanks!

couple beers help after...
Hopefully you'll get yours out with a hammer. I broke a bunch of mine off due to the cheap factory lug nuts rusting on the studs. I drilled the first stud out but there was no way I was doing the other 4 that way. So I picked up an air hammer and that worked great! Just a thought if you have trouble getting the old Wheel Studs out. Good Luck!

-Ryan
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:07 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone.

What's a good solution for corrosion between hub and rotor? I've heard of anti seize between them, just not on the studs.

I also think the alloy wheels cause electrolysis, contributing to corrosion on the studs. Perhaps my broken stud was rusted to the lug like yours, Ryan. Do you know of a better lug nut to replace mine with?

I also noticed metal fragments stuck to the magnetized studs, more so on the rear. I made sure to wipe out off with a rag.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:58 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone.

What's a good solution for corrosion between hub and rotor? I've heard of anti seize between them, just not on the studs.

I also think the alloy wheels cause electrolysis, contributing to corrosion on the studs. Perhaps my broken stud was rusted to the lug like yours, Ryan. Do you know of a better lug nut to replace mine with?

I also noticed metal fragments stuck to the magnetized studs, more so on the rear. I made sure to wipe out off with a rag.
Gorilla is supposed to make a good lug nut. I don't remember what brand I have my TJ but I remember that they were expensive, but I like that I don't have to worry about them rusting on and breaking the studs like last time. I'll see if I can find some info on them for you. Any "lifetime" lug nut will be an upgrade. Anything that is one piece and stainless will also be good. Let me know if you have other questions.

-Ryan
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:17 PM   #9
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Use a stock plain lug nut installed backward (flat face against the stack of washers) and make sure everything is lubed real good before pulling the stud through. I use anti-sieze.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:29 PM   #10
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One important thing to remember to do after the new wheel stud is in is that you need to check the torque on it after driving for a while. And recheck it several times. You may not necessarily get the stud seated all the way the first time and after driving it may seat itself a little better. But that makes the lug nut loose.

The easiest way to get a lug stud seated properly is to use a shop press. But that involves taking off the unit bearing and that's a major pain.
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:31 AM   #11
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One important thing to remember to do after the new wheel stud is in is that you need to check the torque on it after driving for a while. And recheck it several times. You may not necessarily get the stud seated all the way the first time and after driving it may seat itself a little better. But that makes the lug nut loose.

The easiest way to get a lug stud seated properly is to use a shop press. But that involves taking off the unit bearing and that's a major pain.
Thanks, Derf. I'm doing the job this weekend and I'll be sure to keep an eye on it. I was thinking of making a small press that I could use while the hub is on- doesn't seem worth the time.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:04 AM   #12
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Thanks, Derf. I'm doing the job this weekend and I'll be sure to keep an eye on it. I was thinking of making a small press that I could use while the hub is on- doesn't seem worth the time.
Yeah, the lug nut with washers trick does a good enough job. As long as you go back and check it a couple of times you should be fine.
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:41 AM   #13
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New stud is on. Half hour job.

Thanks for all the tips!
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:18 AM   #14
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I need to replace a stud on my 2012 Rubicon front Tire. Would this be the correct stud?

Amazon.com: Spicer 2004789 Wheel Stud: Automotive
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:07 PM   #15
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I need to replace a stud on my 2012 Rubicon front Tire. Would this be the correct stud?

Amazon.com: Spicer 2004789 Wheel Stud: Automotive
Its best to knock the old one out and take it with you to the parts store and match it up. The best way is to call the dealer and order one from them. There are many sizes of wheel studs with different splines and lengths and it doesn't take much for it to be the wrong one.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:38 PM   #16
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Its best to knock the old one out and take it with you to the parts store and match it up. The best way is to call the dealer and order one from them. There are many sizes of wheel studs with different splines and lengths and it doesn't take much for it to be the wrong one.
Damn, OK. I'll have to visit the dealer, thanks.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:10 PM   #17
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I've replaced a few.

1st time I tried 3 different auto parts places that I usually use and none had the part listed in their inventory.

Best to go to the dealer. They're a couple dollars.

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