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Old 06-09-2011, 11:35 PM   #1
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Replacing u joint on front DS

Possible to do it with no special tools? These c clips are a PITA. Help!

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Old 06-09-2011, 11:37 PM   #2
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Bfh.

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Old 06-09-2011, 11:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmed4defense
Bfh.
I'm leaving the front DS connected to the tcase though... Just have it hanging down in the front.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:42 PM   #4
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I would think you would want to change both U-joints at the same time. If they aren't broken (just worn) then a hammer and a socket that fits in the hole in the yoke should drive the thing right out.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmed4defense
I would think you would want to change both U-joints at the same time. If they aren't broken (just worn) then a hammer and a socket that fits in the hole in the yoke should drive the thing right out.
But it goes 4 ways...can't just be driven out. The c clip being out of the way would help tremendously.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:52 PM   #6
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Yes. You must remove the C-Clip first. Sorry about that.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmed4defense
Yes. You must remove the C-Clip first. Sorry about that.
It's alright. Any ideas for getting them out? Lol
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:57 PM   #8
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I've only done this a couple of times. They make a tool to do it, but I always just used a small flat blade screwdriver. These might make it easier:

Great Neck/Snap ring pliers set (25356) | Pliers | AutoZone.com
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmed4defense
I've only done this a couple of times. They make a tool to do it, but I always just used a small flat blade screwdriver. These might make it easier:

Great Neck/Snap ring pliers set (25356) | Pliers | AutoZone.com
These things are like welded in there, gee whiz...the flat head's not working, pliers suck at it...might have to go get one of those tools. Know if they make them for these kind?
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:38 AM   #10
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Never had to do one like that. Think you could use a small flat screwdriver under the long side and then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmed4defense
Never had to do one like that. Think you could use a small flat screwdriver under the long side and then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
I'll try. Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:42 AM   #12
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Good Luck.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:52 AM   #13
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Had another thought. They make a really small vice grip with needle nose. They might work.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:53 AM   #14
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I'll have to pick up something tomorrow...it's 1AM here...so I'm just gonna throw it back up there. Thanks for the ideas!
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:38 AM   #15
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Hold on there. Do this and it will make removing the C clips a whole lot easier.

Pick one, take your BFH, and a driver/socket/whatever, that is smaller then the outside ring of the C clip. Slam it. Now pop the C clip right out. Do the same on the others.

Little info to remember. And why you can't just pop the C clip out.

During installation the caps get pressed tight up against the C clips. They wedge the C clip in tight. By smacking the cap/C clip, you drive the cap down slightly. This releases the tension on the C clip. Bingo it will pop right out with a Screw driver or needle nose pliers.

And some original U-joints don't use C clips. They use a plastic glue, for use of a better word. It is injected into the C clip bore on the yoke. It hardens and does the same thing as the C clip does. If you don't see a C clip look for a normally bluish ring around the U joint cap and a dot or two on the side of the yoke. That's a plastic set up.

Only one way to remove it. Torch! Heat up the yoke, and you'll see the plastic shoot out of the holes like a worm. Now you can remove the U joint. Once out clean out the C clip bores of any remaining plastic. Install the new joint, and regular C clips.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:47 AM   #16
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And something else. Installing the new one. Hopefully you got one that is lube type.

Make sure you have the U joint orientated properly when you install it. One way it will be right, the other way it will install, but you'll never be able to get to the grease fitting to grease it.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:44 PM   #17
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Would it be alright to slam it if the other end is still connected to the transfer case?
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:25 PM   #18
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Would be a heck of a lot easier, but you could. Support the yoke with something like a 4x4 block of wood.

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