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Old 01-22-2011, 10:54 AM   #1
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Stirring the pot..... cause my mind is funny like that...

I have been thinking, and am kind of confused about something. Why is it that a stock TJ Rubicon comes with 31" tires, and if you want to put 33's on it you need 3" of lift? Assuming all other things remain stock, if the tires are only 1" higher (into the wheel well) then why do I need 3" of lift to clear them?

Seems to me it should be proportional, but I'm kinda dumb like that... I know about flex, and bump stops and all that, I just hope one of you geniuses can explain why I gotta have 3" of extra space in my wheel well for a tire that's an inch taller than the one I had previously....

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Old 01-22-2011, 11:13 AM   #2
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Well, Linda, I guess I never really thought about it like that. I was kinda like... "Three inches of lift for a three inch bigger tire." It made sense to me at the time.

Good question. I look forward to hearing the answers.

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Old 01-22-2011, 11:39 AM   #3
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Linda, the March 2011 edition of JP Magazine has charts that show exactly how much lift is required for each Jeep and each tire size. According to the chart a TJ can run 33's with a 1 inch body lift and trimmed or flat fenders. A 2" lift will work with lowered bump stops or trimmed fenders. If you PM me you're email address I can scan and send it to you if you want.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:23 PM   #4
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I have always wondered the same thing. Obviously there are factors other than just height (like wheel opening, turning the wheel, etc), but that always seems to be what people concentrate on. I might have to look for that JP Magazine article...
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:14 PM   #5
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This?
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:26 PM   #6
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Is it because everyone is trying to make a buck and want you to buy more and more and more stuff?
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:34 PM   #7
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I would say because the need lift lets you flex more, so It might give you two inches more clearance, but lets you flex and inch more. 2-1=1 . so you have 1 in of space left before youd rub. Thats just what I have told myself ever since gettin into this jeep thing :P

I imagine a two inch lift just doesnt quite cut it since sometimes they rub with 31s Discoed, so they say three just to make sure and for the money!
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:16 PM   #8
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I've wandered the same thing. Im a machinist so dont know much about suspension. But what I cant get is, I can run 31s with no problems on a stock jeep and if i get a 2 1/2 lift i still can only run 31s???
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #9
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This?
Yes. You also need the previous page that has the key to the color codes.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:56 AM   #10
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Keys typically help. In fact I use one to start my Jeep.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:04 AM   #11
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #12
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Ok, I get that that's what's recommended, I just don't understand the logic behind it.... (it's a blond thing)
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:37 AM   #13
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I'd bet it has something to do with when the wheels are turned to full lock, they'll start hitting inner fender wells more readily, because of the angles of the sheet metal, takes more lift cause it's not a straight up and down situation, it's an angled situation.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:32 PM   #14
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that or what I said^ :P logic, eh?
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Old 01-23-2011, 03:00 PM   #15
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I would say because the need lift lets you flex more, so It might give you two inches more clearance, but lets you flex and inch more. 2-1=1 . so you have 1 in of space left before youd rub. Thats just what I have told myself ever since gettin into this jeep thing :P

I imagine a two inch lift just doesnt quite cut it since sometimes they rub with 31s Discoed, so they say three just to make sure and for the money!
OK, my question for this: why is it that I've seen 2" lifts come with 2" bumpstop extensions? Since that would keep uptravel exactly the same...why is the additional height needed to clear 1 additional inch of tire radius?

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I'd bet it has something to do with when the wheels are turned to full lock, they'll start hitting inner fender wells more readily, because of the angles of the sheet metal, takes more lift cause it's not a straight up and down situation, it's an angled situation.
And my question for this: why not just reduce your backspacing - putting your wheels farther out?

These questions are just to get to the logic - I'm not doubting the 'rules' as I've seen them EVERYWHERE.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:14 AM   #16
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I've been looking into getting a lift kit... Seems that just cause it says it's a 2.5" lift doesn't mean in the end you'll get that much - depending on how much weight on the wrangler I guess. If a 2.5" kit only ends up being, in a worst case scenario, 1.5", then they have to recommend the tire that will fit perfectly at the lowest height.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #17
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I've been looking into getting a lift kit... Seems that just cause it says it's a 2.5" lift doesn't mean in the end you'll get that much - depending on how much weight on the wrangler I guess. If a 2.5" kit only ends up being, in a worst case scenario, 1.5", then they have to recommend the tire that will fit perfectly at the lowest height.
Again just trying to get to the logic of this, I would assume they are talking about actual lift with those numbers. Afterall while some may overestimate the amount of lift, others underestimate (I know Rubicon Express has that reputation with its 3.5" kits). Since there is no way to account for such variables, the only way it makes sense to me is to use actual lift - not advertised.

What you say could certainly be true, but it seems strange to me to make that assumption.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:15 AM   #18
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Ok, I get that that's what's recommended, I just don't understand the logic behind it.... (it's a blond thing)
Just because.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:58 AM   #19
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This has always been a perplexing question to me and others as well. Perhaps Unlimited will chime in as he seems to know all the answers to this suspension question.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:50 AM   #20
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Im with daggo on this, I give up. The Jeep Gods have deemed us unworthy of understanding.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #21
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I would say its because of the shape of the wheel well.. it is narrower at the top and is big enough for a stock tire diameter at full suspension compression. with a larger diameter tire it would not fit in the narrower space at the top of the wheel well requiring more lift so the tire does not go in this space. does this make sense??
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #22
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^^ That makes sense to me..... better than anything else I've come up with....
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:20 AM   #23
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I run 265's on stock suspension with absolutely no rub, two sizes over stock, i believe its just a ploy to make more money personally
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:37 AM   #24
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For what it is worth-A couple days ago I asked about OME 2" lift and going from 31"s-33"s.
After sorting through the multiple answers and checking with some shops here locally, I will pay a local shop to put on the OME lift-total cost they (provide lift and alignment) is $1100.

I first had ordered /quoted the lift and a 1.25" body lift. This shop has one of the best reputations, for the their work, in town. But I have always been wary -figured they would be high dollar.

Turns out that they were cheaper than everyone else. When I went in to drop off deposit discussed my type of use of the Jeep. They told me that for what I do, probably don't need the body lift and can still run 33's on stock rims.

So saved $400-cost of body lift and installation. (for now)
However if I were to start trail running he also recommended quick disco's and that body lift-did I do the right thing?

Will find out next fall when I get the 33's-my 31's are only a few months old.
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:51 AM   #25
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For what it is worth-A couple days ago I asked about OME 2" lift and going from 31"s-33"s.
After sorting through the multiple answers and checking with some shops here locally, I will pay a local shop to put on the OME lift-total cost they (provide lift and alignment) is $1100.

I first had ordered /quoted the lift and a 1.25" body lift. This shop has one of the best reputations, for the their work, in town. But I have always been wary -figured they would be high dollar.

Turns out that they were cheaper than everyone else. When I went in to drop off deposit discussed my type of use of the Jeep. They told me that for what I do, probably don't need the body lift and can still run 33's on stock rims.

So saved $400-cost of body lift and installation. (for now)
However if I were to start trail running he also recommended quick disco's and that body lift-did I do the right thing?

Will find out next fall when I get the 33's-my 31's are only a few months old.
What 33's? You can't put 33x12.5's on stock wheels.... You'll rub the rear spring perches. Unless you use spacers of course. And yeah, I run 33's with a 2" spacer lift, which according to everything you read is a big no-no.... It even goes offroad with that set up But mostly she's a mall crawler, and it's fine for me. Yes, I'll need new shocks soon, and if my pockets were full, a spring lift would be nice, but I haul my short kids and mother in my Jeep and wanted to keep it more easily accessible for them, while still looking good for me.....
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:51 AM   #26
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Okay Linda once again you were right. Made a couple calls and was told there WERE at one time 33 BFG's that would fit stock Jeep rims 9.5 or 10.5-but that they are more rare anymore than hens teeth. SO it looks as if when I need to replace my 31's or have enough want to as I will need to change speedo gear-I will be looking for new wider rims and some wheel spacers-or can I run 33's with wider rims and no spacers?

(see what you started) throw more money at it - it'll work!
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:30 PM   #27
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If the backspace on the aftermarket wheels is 4.5" or less you won't need spacers. It's the bs on stock wheels that gets ya. An 8" wheel is fine for a 12.5" wide tire. Especially if you air down off road.

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