Im replacing my door hinges because theyre rusted, and the torx screws are stripped.. i tried using a larger torx and applied pressure, but still no luck... i'm out of ideas.. help?
About $2.00 at OReilly's (or your favorite parts store) get a screw extractor. Then drill out the center of the torx bolt and use the screw extractor. The threads on the extractor are reversed, so when you screw it in, as it tightens it will unscrew the torx bolt. Then replace all of them with stainless or otherwise weather proof fastners.
Yeah, it sounds so easy. In my experience, it !#*%&@ sucks.
I posted awhile back in the YJ section about how I traded my soft top for a hard top and doors for free. I thought I was getting the bargain of the century. If I had it to do over again I would have skipped right by that damn Craigslist ad.
All three of the upper hinge bolts from the drivers door stripped out on me. I tried to use extractors and broke two of them off in two separate bolts. So I had my daughters husband over helping with the damn jeep and found out he knows how to weld. So I went and rented a tow behind welding kit so that we could weld a nut onto the torx bolts and remove them that way.
He couldn't get the weld to stick. The nuts would melt down but whenever we tried to turn them they would just pop off.
So I had to go buy another pair of doors from FN Jeeps. $400 dollars later I ended up with a pair of doors that are in worse condition than the ones I traded for but at least the damned torx bolts weren't jammed and I was able to mount them into place.
Oh, and this all happened on the last two days of my vacation.
Had it happen yesterday on my tailgate.. I drilled them till the heads poped off, I think it was a 3/8th bit. The with a vise grip I tightened as hard as I could I very gently was able to move the leftover stud back and forth till it came free... Those damn torx heads suck.
I know a lot of things, most of them are only correct in my own head...
Better to be judged by twelve then carried by six. I'm sure this is going to get me in trouble down the line
If ya have a stripped out head you can usually turn the bolt by using a sharp "Prick Punch" (Don't laugh.... Thats what they are called ) Or a "center punch"..Very carefully drive the outside of the bolt head with the punch and a hammer. YESSSSS, Wear your Safety goggles.
I guess it would be good idea to pull these bolts once in a while and grease em or put on some Anti Seize.... Add that to your "PM" list.. "BH"
These are the worse bolts ever.Mayby it has something to do with the fact the vehicle gets painted AFTER the hinges are on.I know this because I had to adj my door hinge & there is now primer showing where I moved the hinge.
If the screw extractor doesn't work, heat and apply krill oil liberally until you can bust it loose. I'm also replacing all of mine with grade 8 hex head hardware. No reason to step back into a torx head nightmare if you don't have to.
Denis A. Baldwin
1991 YJ 2.5L, 1" BD MML, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 37ss, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
WELL...i had a fun day.. I managed to get 1 bolt out, but of course the screw extractor broke off inside one, and a bit broke off inside the other....
Did that myself a few months ago, basically I followed the directions on the extractor for the first one, for the bolt size they seem to want you to only get the tip in there and then it breaks off = bad day. After that I went to a smaller extractor so it went in 2/3 -3/4 of the way and the rest of them (7) came out easily. Drill the bolt out with as large of a drill bit as you can use without getting into the threads. I still have to get the broken extractor bolt out, that thing has destroyed every drill bit I have thrown at it.