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Old 12-09-2007, 04:52 PM   #1
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T-Case drain plug parts?

So in the effort to track down the problem with my Jeep, today I removed the front driveline, to try and drive it without it, but I had drained the tranny fluid, and Kragen didn't have what you guys reccommended, so I drained the transfer case to check out the fluid. The fluid had quite a bit of metallic flake in it, and looked to be VERY low. Also, when I took the drain plug out, I heard a 'kerplunk' into the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket, and I found a spring and some bullet shaped piece. Is this supposed to be assembled and all part of the drain plug?


Here's the fluid in a 5 gallon bucket, some of the crap was already in the bucket.

Here's the parts that came out with the drain plug.


Here's the drainplug I pulled. I have never heard of these extra parts, so maybe I pulled the wrong plug?



Here's the lack of fluid in the transfer case

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Old 12-09-2007, 05:19 PM   #2
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That wasn't the drain plug. The drain plug is the big bolt on the backside of the T-case.

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Old 12-09-2007, 05:22 PM   #3
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Oh ok, My Chiltons has nothing in it about this. Is there any re-assembly diagram for what I took out, or do I just slip the spring into the bullet shaped piece, and put the other end of the spring into the plug, and tighten it back up? What was this plug? Thanks
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Old 12-09-2007, 05:26 PM   #4
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I really haven't a clue about what you took out, and even less on how it would go back in.
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Old 12-09-2007, 05:41 PM   #5
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OK, Thanks....anyone else?
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Old 12-09-2007, 06:18 PM   #6
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What you took out was the ball that rides against the shift selector inside. This keeps the T-case engaged in the selection you put it in. You can just put it back in how it came out and it will be fine.
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Old 12-09-2007, 06:51 PM   #7
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Just for future reference, NEVER take the drain plug out FIRST, always take the FILL plug out FIRST. That way of you strip the fill plug you can still drive it till you fix it, if you take the drain plug out first and then strip the fill plug you are SOL and dead in the water till you fix it.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:24 PM   #8
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Okay, Thanks guys. And as for the 'put it back in how it came out', it came out with a 'clunk' in to the bottom of the drain bucket. I'm not sure on how it goes back together.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:43 PM   #9
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OK, Thanks guys. As for the 'put it back how it came apart', it came out with a 'clunk' into the bottom of a bucket. I didn't see how it all was put together. No one thinks this is a particularly low level for the fluid? Also, today, when working on the Jeep, the T Case was very hard and more rough to shift than it usually is, which probably has something to do with the low fluid. All in all, what I am getting at is could it be the T Case that is giving me my problems? http://www.wranglerforum.com/yj-chat...ved-13684.html Thanks guys
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:57 PM   #10
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The t-case only takes 1-1/2 to 2 quarts of fluid depending on how much gets drained out. Two quarts MAX!
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:02 PM   #11
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OK, do you think that also I could have not drained out all of the fluid since what I used was not the drain plug? Does it look to you like there about enough in that bottle? Thanks
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richp View Post
Just for future reference, NEVER take the drain plug out FIRST, always take the FILL plug out FIRST. That way of you strip the fill plug you can still drive it till you fix it, if you take the drain plug out first and then strip the fill plug you are SOL and dead in the water till you fix it.
I don't quite understand; I understand that I should take the fill plug out first but why? If you strip the fill plug while there is already fluid in the tranny, you can still drive until you get it fixed, but if you drain the fluid, then strip the fill plug, you can't drive it till you get the fill plug off. I think I get it now, I just had to kinda explain it to myself.
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:32 PM   #13
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OK, I got the FSM open in front of me, that part is called the POPPET assembly, consists of the poppet, spring and screw. I figure that the nipple end goes inside the spring so it stays centered, then the goes in the poppet bore, the screw goes against the spring so BOLT>//spring//=|poppet|> into poppet bore it came out of...
Oh, some more
Rotate the lever to the N position
Install new O ring on detent plug [fig 67]
Lubricate detent plunger with transmission fluid or light coat of petroleum jelley
Install detent plunger, spring and plug
verify that plunger is properly engaged in sector.
detent plunger is the poppet.
My question is, how the heck did you get that out, you must have skinny hands or be part snake, that sob is tough to get to, I just went out and looked.
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Old 12-09-2007, 10:19 PM   #14
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Yeah I have skinny hands I guess. And ViceGrips cause I didn't have a wrench handy and my buddy had those handy. Thanks for the help. You think that theres a possibility that the problem is in the Transfer case? I know I need to check for slop in the chain, but would that be causing it do to the deceleration grinding noise I am experiencing?
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Old 12-09-2007, 10:29 PM   #15
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No idea but I would pull it out and open it up before you do any damage or more damage, at the worst you still have an intact case that you might be able to fix or at least get a core on for a rebuilt, punch a piece out of it and it's just so much garbage...
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Old 12-09-2007, 10:39 PM   #16
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OK. Thanks for all the answers and sorry for all the questions. And like I said before, the transfer case feels VERY rough to shift, and that was with fluid in it. It always has been kinda hard, but now I read another one of your posts and you said your transfer case shifts like butter, and mine is hard from butter, like a real firm pull back to get it into 4 HI and I think 4 LO. How difficult is all the disassembly/assembly of the linkage for the transfer case? Would slack in the chain be all I would be looking for? Like I said before there was a substantial amount of metal shavings in the fluid. Should I be able to turn the yoke on the t-case for the front driveline about 3/8" each way? There is also a little bit of up and down play in the yoke. I have a SYE, will that make opening the t-case any more difficult? Once again, thanks for all the help, sorry for all the questions.
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:04 PM   #17
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If you have metal shavings I would for sure pull it apart, the shavings could be from a slack chain eating the case from the inside, only way to tell is look see.
My TC's are smooth because of the Mobil-1 ATF, the first time I changed it out at around 50K from the factory stuff the shifting change was instantaneous before I even moved the jeep in the driveway. Thats how dramatic it was and that held for the TJ's too which both had over 90,000mi on them when I got them. It's one of the first things we do when one of us in the family gets a 'new' jeep, change the engine, tranny, diffs and transfer case fluids as soon as we get it home.
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:11 PM   #18
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OK thanks. Do you think the play in the front driveshaft yoke on the t-case is a problem, too? The sound could maybe be the chain hitting the inside of the t-case? I am just so frustrated with this Jeep and not knowing whats wrong with it. I need to pull the t-case I guess but I work all this week and its dark by the time I get home, so I won't wanna do it a whole lot, on top of being tired from work. Thanks for your help, Rich
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:22 PM   #19
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I thought the sun shone all the time in calif, we got freezing rain going on right now so the morning 10 minute commute up to pocono raceway should prove interesting. I would seriously pull that case and get it fixed before it really damages something like the transmission or a driveshaft comes out an you pogo the thing.
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:30 PM   #20
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Yeah we're getting a nice break from the rain, but usually the weather is pretty nice. But its been getting dark before 5, and I need a good drop light if I do decide to do it after work, which is unlikely. I'll pull the transfer case on saturday and check out the chain. Anything else I should look for in the case other than chain slop? Thanks
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:39 PM   #21
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Yea, find out where the metal shavings are coming from then look for other slop and problems, if you are not sure have someone who knows look it over.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:00 AM   #22
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I think I will be able to handle taking it off, opening it up, and looking for problems or anything that doesn't look like it should be that way. But it'll have to wait a few days. Maybe I should just take it to a shop to find out whats wrong. But I don't have the money for that, but this is just getting old and I want to drive it again.

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