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Old 08-27-2007, 04:48 PM   #31
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sorry interupt the thread
but speaking of a 3 inch lift
would a 3 inch lift and 32's look weird? And will 15x7 rims fit ok on 32's?
That depends on the 3" lift. Which one are you looking at?

15x7's? What's the width of the tire?

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Old 08-27-2007, 04:49 PM   #32
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RB - my lift got me about 4" and I've got 32's. They don't look bad... although a little goofy as my wheels make them stick out farther. If I didn't such a low backspacing, it would look a little more proportional.

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Old 08-27-2007, 05:59 PM   #33
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Does a long arm require anything more than cutting? Is there welding?
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:06 PM   #34
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i dont know the width of the tire
I'm going to get 32 inch BFG AT's on my 15x7 rims
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:10 PM   #35
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Does a long arm require anything more than cutting? Is there welding?
Usually, yes, and exhaust modification. And most long arm kits come with a new bely skid thats smaller than the stock one.

RE even has a 3.5" Long-Arm kit.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:11 PM   #36
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So I'd have to have someone weld it up for me.... hmm..
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:20 PM   #37
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Any long arm is going to require some welding.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:33 PM   #38
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Any long arm is going to require some welding.
That's not true. There are some that still have bolt in cradle's and center sections.

Tiny, based on your height and the fact that you really seem to want to keep your jeep low to the ground (Which is what you want anyway the lowest cog possible) then what would be wrong with some 3" coils/shocks, 1" BL/1" MML (Since you already have it), Belly Up Skid, and 33's. Yeah you'll need the SYE and new driveshaft, but damn you'll gain 1" or so from your tires, and another 3 or 4 inches in the middle from the skid. After that if you choose to move to 35's it can be easily attainable with a little bit of cutting of the fender wells in the rear or some flat fenders.

I really see nothing wrong with your thinking here. Not everyone needs a long arm suspension setup.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:38 PM   #39
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I'm not sure I understand what the long arm does anyways, but I do know that I can't weld, and I'm all about doing the work myself. There's no point (for me) if I don't.

And, no I don't want to go too high, it's hard enough for me to get into it right now. Haven't worn a skirt since I lifted it
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:50 PM   #40
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I thought you had that little step ladder stuck behind the seats.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:50 PM   #41
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I'm not sure I understand what the long arm does anyways, but I do know that I can't weld, and I'm all about doing the work myself. There's no point (for me) if I don't.

And, no I don't want to go too high, it's hard enough for me to get into it right now. Haven't worn a skirt since I lifted it
Sorry, but picturing you in a skirt is just something that doesn't seem right to me. We are going to need to see a pic of it to prove it's ever happened after you were 18.

Tiny, with Adjustable control arms, belly up, sye, and some trimming you could run 35's easily with 4" of lift. I don't blame you for wanting to keep it low. Of course at some point in time you are going to want to add in a front locker at least to help with some of those spots you get hung up on now.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:53 PM   #42
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It's a rope ladder, Dare. I little rope ladder. Shhhhh.

I never wore a skirt until well after I was 18, Jack, thank you, but nope, no pictures. So adjustable control arms.... do they require cutting and welding?
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:55 PM   #43
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No, They are the same configuations of your stock length arms, but have some adjustability to them so that you can adjust for the angles you need to return your drivetrain to near stock while having larger springs and tires.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:14 PM   #44
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On road driving = long arm. Road manners of the long arm are awsome compared to a short arm. Most kits don't need welding for the kit install however exhaust mods, cat back for the RE, remove an inch from the crossover on an Nth. Full traction has their own exhaust system they sell. Check them all out especially for the hidden costs. Clayton and TNT look like they require some welding.

If it is a 1" BL and 1" motor lift leave them, get the Nth TT, you gain 3" over stock, you can go with long or short arms later. Do the SYE anyway, your going to need it eventually. Add springs and bump stops for tire clearance accordingly.

When you get the 33's on your only happy for a while, 35's will hold you over longer.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:17 PM   #45
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I know, Double G. My Napoleonic Complex will kick in eventually and it's not like the jeep absolutely has to fit in the garage. Plus I can start parking by curbs and smaller cars to get in and out
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:01 PM   #46
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WOW im amazed still on topic!!!!!
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Old 08-27-2007, 09:46 PM   #47
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Until you got here, sheesh.


So, I can go three inches, leave the BL, and go up the 33's. I need a SYE, adjustable control arms, brake lines, and do I need a new drive shaft without the belly up?
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:03 PM   #48
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If you install an SYE, belly up or not, your gonna need a new drive shaft.
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:20 PM   #49
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How can you stop at 33s when we wheel with someone on 37s? You gotta keep up with the competition (says the guy on 31s!)
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:35 PM   #50
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5 years from now you'll be trying to fit 49" boggers under your comp corners with 10in's of lift.
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:42 PM   #51
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My 99 sahara had a rustys 3in lift with no sye and drop spacers for the belly with 32's and it worked awsome,John bull and everything no problem,and i was open. 32 with a 3in looks perfect. Now with my rubi im going to go re lift 4.5 long arm with 33's
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:46 PM   #52
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Since we are talking about this... How do I know how much of a lift I have on my jeep since I recently purchased it???
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:48 PM   #53
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How do I know what kind of a lift I have on my jeep??? I have 32" tires on it.??
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:01 PM   #54
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well if there is space between the grille and fram then you have a BL, if there are new shocks but the coild look old/there is a big spacer at the top you have a BB, if it looks like new coils and shocks, and there is just a little spacer you have a fulll suspension kit,
with 32's you probabaly have between a 2" and 4"

you should also make your own thread for future refrence

and tiny have you been hitting your t case?
if not i wouyld just stick with getting a better 3" lift kit that rides and flexs really nicely and forget aboutt he sye/cv/belly up, but of course i have barely any $$ at all, so if you have the $$ then that would be the way to go
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:10 PM   #55
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No, I've been wanking my control arms and well.... the back diff But the t-case skid has it's share of missing paint and dinks.

And Eric, don't encourage me!!!! I can't climb into a huge jeep. I'd have to carry a box with me everywhere.
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:12 PM   #56
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Tiny you just have to install a strup just like getting on a horse and you put a rope on it so you can pull it back in once you are in the Jeep.
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:30 PM   #57
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That'll work in my cowboy boots but not my heels
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:06 AM   #58
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u wear heels never owulda guessed








or am i stupid and ur sarcastic!?
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:19 AM   #59
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No Derek you're not stupid, I've been known to wear heels.
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:13 AM   #60
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How about go with a 3" lift then a tummy tuck to increase ground clearance, and in the future if you want even bigger tires get this http://www.aev-conversions.com/products/highline/
to keep the low center of gravity.

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