I would buy these 2:
click type 100$
click type 100$
But these are neat, too - not sure where the electronics are made though:
80$ digital 3/8
80$ digital 1/2
And for comparison:
beam type (better version of a click type) 1/2 345$
If you are really gonna tinker, look into a smaller in-lb wrench, like a gearwrench 85051.
KD tools, owner of the Gearwrench brandname, is owned by Danaher tool group, a subsidiary of Danaher Corporation. Also in this grouping is a long laundry list of medical and general companies, as well as Fluke, Hach, Raytek, and formerly Apex tools (sold last year to Bain capital). The super corporation also purchased Armstrong tools, which has operated a very high quality American tool factory outside Chicago for many, many years. This is where Craftsman tools (Craftsman professional) Mac Allied Tool Company (Matco - another Danaher tool group member), Armstrong tools, and a handful of other brands are made, including Gearwrench US made products. Make NO mistake - same tooling, same machines, same product.
Snap-on is different, very different, but unless you need that tool to feed your family or to do what other versions fail to do, you do not need a Snap-on. It is also much easier for non-professionals to get warranty replacements at a store than to track down a mobile business or send in to corporate.
(I was a tool dealer/field rep for about 10 years)
As mentioned, all torque wrenches need to at least be verifyed to be accurate yearly (yeah... sure). Dropping them (or slappin them around) will make them fall out of calibration faster. They become less accurate at the extremes, the top and bottom 15-20% of their range. You should not rely on them outside the 20-80% range. Also, as stated, they should be stored unwound towards the lower end of the range to not stress the spring unless you have a beam or digital type which does not have springs. Even when turned down, they should not be turned outside the marked range.