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Old 09-01-2013, 02:55 PM   #1
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Want to buy new Jeep...any advice?

Here's my thinking: Jeep Wranglers seem to keep their value quite well so why not get a new one?

I want a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Manual Transmission (nothing fancy included.)

MSRP on jeep.com is quoted as $25,690 with the destination fee included.

Here are the questions...what's the best way to pay for it and, once that is determined, how do I proceed with the dealership?

I've never bought a new car...

Have a 2003 Nissan Frontier in decent condition worth probably $2000 for trade-in...

Have good credit history...

Any advice?...thanks!

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Old 09-01-2013, 05:38 PM   #2
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IMO I wouldn't buy new and as far as a trade in you'd probably better off selling it instead of trading it in. They lowball the hell outa ya.

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Old 09-01-2013, 11:05 PM   #3
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IMO I would go down to the dealer(assuming you did your homework) and drive off in a brand new Jeep!
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:13 PM   #4
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Make sure to get the Maximum tow package installed. It's the upgraded gearing to 3.72. I got the stock 3.21 and wish I had the change to do it again. You can upgrade later but at the cost of about $1200 for parts and labor, vs. a $150 upgrade at the dealership.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:31 AM   #5
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If you live in a cold place make sure to get the hard top, it keeps the cold air out better at least with my jeep. You can buy a soft top or summer top later.
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:53 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by benjeep98 View Post
If you live in a cold place make sure to get the hard top, it keeps the cold air out better at least with my jeep. You can buy a soft top or summer top later.
I was told that the newer Jeeps don't have an issue with it being cold in them anymore with the soft tops.

I was told however by the dealer 2 weeks ago that the newer 3 part roofs are having an issue with leaking at the middle point where the t tops meet. He actually suggested to not get the hard top right now and just get the soft top to allow them to work out the leak issue. Then later get the hard top.

When he said that he actually blew a sale on a new jeep Because they had a used wrangler sport with 15k miles on it that I loved and wasn't getting because it had a soft top alone. Needless to say I came home with a 2010 Cosmos Blue ( which is why I wanted it. It's a very rare color) sport with 15k miles for 19,500. His honesty got him the sale of a used jeep but lost the sale on a new one.

Hope my LOOOONGGGGG story helps.
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:56 AM   #7
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Also don't be afraid to walk away if they don't come down. They will. The other thing is the 2014's are coming out now. They get charged a charge back every day a 2013 stays on their lot.

They make better deals at the end of the month.... And they will make a better deal on A brand new 2013 than a 2014 to get it out if their stock.
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:49 AM   #8
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3.73 rear end is a must. Do your homework on the price you are paying and remember, if you don't pay retail for the new you wont get retail for yours. And I'm not recommending paying retail. My 08 was my first new car and I got 3 dealers involved before I settled on the price (no trade). This time I checked on line for a couple days and picked the dealer with the right price and options, went in and negotiated only my trade in. Happy with both numbers.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:47 AM   #9
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Thanks for all the advice...I really appreciate it!
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:59 AM   #10
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There are a lot of numbers that move around when buying that impact your monthly payment. And they can shuffle them all around to fool you.

Trade in - bluebook your vehicle and see what other similar ones are selling for at dealers - this will give you an idea of how much they are going to turn around and sell it for and how much you can expect to get out of yours.

Interest Rate - They will start with something high - if you're credit score is good, you will be able to get down to 1.9% (possibly lower in some cases).. but anything higher than 1.9% is not really good. At first my dealer insisted they don't go lower than 3.94% on Wranglers - but they moved when I pushed and insisted I needed a lower payment number to make it work.

Sticker Price - This is a big one - sometimes you end up paying sticker, but can get them to move on interest rate and trade-in (for example they wanted to give me 3.94% interest, and $2,000 below blue book - I negotiated to 1.9% interest and $1,500 above blue book. You could end up paying below sticker, but get screwed on interest rate and trade in.

If you can get them to favor you on all three of those aspects you're doing a good job. Remember they have more incentive to sell near the end of the month to meet quota and get bonuses. Maintain a positive attitude - if they like you personally, they'll be more willing to work with you. If they think you're an asshole - then they'll be more likely to not care and want to screw you.

It's a big game - if you think you're being screwed feel free to walk away. Last thing you want is a reminder you got ripped off sitting in your driveway to look at every day.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAinIA View Post
Here are the questions...what's the best way to pay for it and, once that is determined, how do I proceed with the dealership?

I've never bought a new car...

Have a 2003 Nissan Frontier in decent condition worth probably $2000 for trade-in...

Have good credit history...
For starters, I would not undervalue your truck. Trucks tend to hold their value decently well, and I bet you could get at least 3500 - 4000$ on a trade-in for a 10 year old truck, assuming it is in good condition (i.e., no major accidents, reasonable mileage, interior without major blemishes, etc).

For the new vehicle purchase, I would start off looking into local and / or work sponsored credit unions. Two reasons for that ... a) typically (but not always) you are going to get a lower rate at the credit union, and b) if you walk into the dealership with your financing already arranged, all you have to do is negotiate hard on the price / trade-in.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #12
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Great advice...thank you.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:47 PM   #13
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Id recommend using https://www.truecar.com/ to build up the jeep your interested in and not paying more then factory invoice, if not below for a 2013.

I locked in a deal sat for a 2013 wrangler Rubicon for 3.5% below invoice and was quite pleased. Also dont let them lowball you on trade in. If you have a ballpark figure in mind, say I want this amount. If they lowball just get up thank them for their time and head out. If they dont chase you, expect a call in 24 hours with a much better figure.

I've bought 4 new cars and each time its all the same game. Do not let them price you out by monthly payment/finance terms. Talk in the full price of the jeep and work the financing out after the final value is set.

On financing, if they offer you 3.9% financing. Ask which lender and a call number while your sitting there. CALL Them and make sure its actually 3.9% if they got you approved for 2.9% financing they can legally charge you 3.9% and win on the interest. VERIFY EVERYTHING and you will have a much better buying experience and walk away knowing you did everything possible to get the best deal and best financing.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #14
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go see a doctor..they might can cure you..when you buy on credit in my opinion you are just hocking your future..I have not bought anything on credit in nearly 30 years and am in much better financial shape for it..yeah,it was tough at first but every year it gets better and eventually when you want a new vehicle you can go pay cash for it..
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by KymberStyle View Post

I was told that the newer Jeeps don't have an issue with it being cold in them anymore with the soft tops.

I was told however by the dealer 2 weeks ago that the newer 3 part roofs are having an issue with leaking at the middle point where the t tops meet. He actually suggested to not get the hard top right now and just get the soft top to allow them to work out the leak issue. Then later get the hard top.

When he said that he actually blew a sale on a new jeep Because they had a used wrangler sport with 15k miles on it that I loved and wasn't getting because it had a soft top alone. Needless to say I came home with a 2010 Cosmos Blue ( which is why I wanted it. It's a very rare color) sport with 15k miles for 19,500. His honesty got him the sale of a used jeep but lost the sale on a new one.

Hope my LOOOONGGGGG story helps.
Thanks for the info! I have a 1998 tj and I live in the Washington DC area an in the morning it's freezing!! My neighbor has a hard top and chilly but not as bad a mine. I've heard rumors about the new hard tops having a problem. The new jeeps are probably better insulated also!
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by benjeep98 View Post

Thanks for the info! I have a 1998 tj and I live in the Washington DC area an in the morning it's freezing!! My neighbor has a hard top and chilly but not as bad a mine. I've heard rumors about the new hard tops having a problem. The new jeeps are probably better insulated also!
My soft top has held in the air conditioning well and I hope the heat will too. I think the tips have gotten better but it's just my opinion.

I mean if I'm Freezing ill buy a hard top but I didn't want to risk the leaking when I have dealers actually saying don't get it.

I mean they usually want us to buy buy buy!

Lol

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