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Old 01-25-2007, 09:16 AM   #181
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Well it's a JJUSA requirement so I thought I better be legal for Llano.

Oh! I almost forgot! I installed them MYSELF!

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Old 01-25-2007, 09:18 AM   #182
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grade 8 bolts?

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Old 01-25-2007, 11:34 AM   #183
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Well it's a JJUSA requirement so I thought I better be legal for Llano.

Oh! I almost forgot! I installed them MYSELF!
very impressive!

i installed my own license plate up front!
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Old 01-25-2007, 11:39 AM   #184
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I bought some new bolts for my hubs(i think thats what they r called) b/c the rusted out 12-pt'ers are rounded
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Old 01-25-2007, 11:51 AM   #185
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grade 8 bolts?
That's a damn good question. How do you know if they're grade 8? I seriously don't know the answer to that.
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Old 01-25-2007, 11:56 AM   #186
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You can tell by the markings on the top of the bolt.


A good disertation on Grade 8 vs. Grade 5 bolts: http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ners/index.asp
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Old 01-25-2007, 11:56 AM   #187
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Grade 8 Bolts will have six marks on the head of the bolt, while grade 5 has 3 marks.
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:33 PM   #188
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I worked on my jeep trying to get some of the vibrations out. Hopefully things will be squared away soon!!
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:51 PM   #189
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Thanks guys! I have no idea what I have but I'll look tonight. Hopefully I did it righ the first time or I'll have to head to the store again.
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:10 PM   #190
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Grade 8 Bolts are expensive. I went to a little mechanical parts store yesterday and bought 6 2 x 1/2 inch coarse thread bolts and 12 grade 8 1/2 inch washers and it was 10 bucks. They are real high but real strong.
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:22 PM   #191
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Grade 8 Bolts are expensive. I went to a little mechanical parts store yesterday and bought 6 2 x 1/2 inch coarse thread bolts and 12 grade 8 1/2 inch washers and it was 10 bucks. They are real high but real strong.

I don't mind spending the money on that so that I know it's done right. But now that you've given me a cost comparison I'm almost sure they're not grade 8 bolts. The one's I bought were less $$$ than that. Looks like another trip to the hardware store for me...
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:49 PM   #192
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Not always the case but the plating on grade 8 bolts are usually goldish in color. The grade 5 is usually stainless steel in color or chromish.

I like to use the stock bolts if possible because they are the metric equivalent to grade 8. But who likes torx bits in the first place??
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Old 01-25-2007, 04:52 PM   #193
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all except you shouldn't pull from the front. You should always pull centered from the rear if you have the preference.
we dont have any choice on the tight trails here in Virginia
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Old 01-25-2007, 04:56 PM   #194
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for a single shear application, grade 8 bolts arent always the best. They are harder, and thusly more brittle than their grade 5 cousins. think of it like a hardened axle shaft and a chromo axle shaft. the grade 5 (chromo axle shaft) will bend and stretch whereas a grade 8 will snap (hardened axle shaft).

in no way am i saying that grade 8 is wrong, i used them on all of my tow points. just figured i would throw that bit of tech out there for everyone
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:50 PM   #195
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for a single shear application, grade 8 bolts arent always the best. They are harder, and thusly more brittle than their grade 5 cousins. think of it like a hardened axle shaft and a chromo axle shaft. the grade 5 (chromo axle shaft) will bend and stretch whereas a grade 8 will snap (hardened axle shaft).

in no way am i saying that grade 8 is wrong, i used them on all of my tow points. just figured i would throw that bit of tech out there for everyone
I think your bit of tech should be backed up with fact because I completely disagree with that "rumor"
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Old 01-25-2007, 07:22 PM   #196
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for a single shear application, grade 8 bolts arent always the best. They are harder, and thusly more brittle than their grade 5 cousins. think of it like a hardened axle shaft and a chromo axle shaft. the grade 5 (chromo axle shaft) will bend and stretch whereas a grade 8 will snap (hardened axle shaft).

in no way am i saying that grade 8 is wrong, i used them on all of my tow points. just figured i would throw that bit of tech out there for everyone
Direct quote from the link I posted above:

"I’ve also heard the argument that grade 8’s are more brittle than grade 5’s and that’s why you shouldn’t use them. Well, first you need to understand what the term “brittle” really means. Brittleness in bolts is defined as failure at stresses apparently below the strength of the bolt material with little or no evidence of plastic deformation. Typically, fasteners are not brittle below 180 ksi ultimate tensile strength. Grade 5’s have an ultimate tensile strength of 120 ksi and a grade 8 fastener has an ultimate tensile strength of 150 ksi. This is why brittle is a relative term. Nearly all fasteners are considered ductile except some made from PH 15-6 Mo, 17-4 PH and 17-7 PH. "
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:12 PM   #197
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I think your bit of tech should be backed up with fact because I completely disagree with that "rumor"
i have seen grade 5 bolts deform where a grade 8 has broken. i worked maintenance in a mine for 5 years and have seen this happen. one more than one occasion, we have replaced a grade 8 bolt with a grade 5 and have seen the grade 5 last longer.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:20 PM   #198
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Ok, here's one for ya: What if the bolts I used don't look like either one of the one's you guys posted. The one's I used have no "lines" on them. They have some letters that say "307 A" and "QB". WTF does that mean? Grade -1?
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:33 PM   #199
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How about some obligatory pictures in the garage??
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:41 PM   #200
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How about some obligatory pictures in the garage??
Awww hell. Give me a minute.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:55 PM   #201
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You are slackin. Figured as much you would have already had them awaiting on some requests


What did I do to my jeep today?

Cut the front output off my 231. Ground some aluminum forever to get my doubler finished up! Now if I could only weld some aluminum!
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:57 PM   #202
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Well the pics are not that great. I don't have the right lense for my camera here. I don't know if these will help.



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Old 01-25-2007, 09:59 PM   #203
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You are slackin. Figured as much you would have already had them awaiting on some requests


What did I do to my jeep today?

Cut the front output off my 231. Ground some aluminum forever to get my doubler finished up! Now if I could only weld some aluminum!
Some awaiting? My album isn't near as large as yours!

Output off your and doubler and aluminum? I have no idea what all that is. Pyske!!!
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:04 PM   #204
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i dropped and rebuilt the tranny today :o

not sure on those bolts ... no marking i have ever seen.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:11 PM   #205
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i dropped and rebuilt the tranny today :o

not sure on those bolts ... no marking i have ever seen.
Rebuilt the tranny huh? Are you trying to make me look bad since I screwed up installing my tow hooks?


Well I don't think they're grade 8.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:25 PM   #206
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Some awaiting? My album isn't near as large as yours!

Output off your and doubler and aluminum? I have no idea what all that is. Pyske!!!
You know the transfer case that comes in lonely jeeps from the factory?? I cut that up to use it as a doubler kit. So the 2.72 will go to the 2.62 on my Dana 300. 7.12:1 sounds pretty nice to me.

I will have pics tomorrow.

I would trade out your bolts with some grade 8 hardware. Then buy a bumper with some D ring tabs. That should be your best bet for a recovery point. I refuse to use tow hooks

I have a D ring shackle in the rear and tow from the D rings on the front
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:31 PM   #207
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Rebuilt the tranny huh? Are you trying to make me look bad since I screwed up installing my tow hooks?


Well I don't think they're grade 8.
the local wheeling requires alot of wheel speed, really eats up the clutches in the auto trannies ... this is only the second time i have rebuilt it in 4 months :o and only the 4th or so tranny i have rebuilt / helped rebuild in the last 6

east coast guys like their wheel speed
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:31 PM   #208
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You know the transfer case that comes in lonely jeeps from the factory?? I cut that up to use it as a doubler kit. So the 2.72 will go to the 2.62 on my Dana 300. 7.12:1 sounds pretty nice to me.

I will have pics tomorrow.

I would trade out your bolts with some grade 8 hardware. Then buy a bumper with some D ring tabs. That should be your best bet for a recovery point. I refuse to use tow hooks

I have a D ring shackle in the rear and tow from the D rings on the front
7.12:1...yeah, that's what I was thinking. 2.62, uh huh, yeah, I say run with it. That'd be what I would do. Yeah...

I'll run out and get some grade 8 bolts. I know what to look for now. The bumper is staying and for the two times a year this thing sees dirt it should get me by. Besides, the groups I sign up for mostly just drive down dirt roads and we drive around pot holes. I'D HATE TO SCRATCH IT!!!
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:33 PM   #209
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the local wheeling requires alot of wheel speed, really eats up the clutches in the auto trannies ... this is only the second time i have rebuilt it in 4 months :o and only the 4th or so tranny i have rebuilt / helped rebuild in the last 6

east coast guys like their wheel speed
Sounds good. I appreciate people who can do that stuff themselves. I, for one, am not one of them.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:40 PM   #210
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Sounds good. I appreciate people who can do that stuff themselves. I, for one, am not one of them.
lol ... anyone can rebuild an auto tranny. friction clutches here, metal clutches there, a few tools and a dial caliper is all you really need.

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