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Old 08-29-2009, 09:10 PM   #1
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Windshield Lights

(sorry if this is the wrong place to post this)

i have my lights already mouted on the kc light brackets.. have the instructions, know how to wire them and all..

problem is this.. where the hell do i run the wires

ive seen other posts that say they run thru the windshield (dropping the windshield to run the wires) is there another way to do this.. id rather now attempt that (never had it down before or ever put one down) not sure ill be able to do it without messing or breaking something..

i did removed the cowl and i think i can run the wires to the lights there and ground them there as well, but not sure if thats a good idea.

the wire to the battery is a concern as i do not know where to run that thru the firewall.. ( did you guys that have them have to drill anything.)

any info would be appreciated, pics would be great if you have them.

thanks for you help.

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Old 08-30-2009, 02:04 PM   #2
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I imagine you could remove the plastic from the A-pillars and run the wiring behind there and down into the dash. The plastic is just held in place by a few screws and snap fasteners.

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Old 08-31-2009, 04:37 PM   #3
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does anyone have any pics of their install on where the wires were run?
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:49 PM   #4
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Ran mine under the cowl. Don't have pics, but could try to take some later if you want.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavediverjc View Post
Ran mine under the cowl. Don't have pics, but could try to take some later if you want.

did you have to drill, i removed my cowl and i can run the wires there and ground but where did you run the wires thru to the switch.. did you drill ?

pics would be great if its not to much trouble..

thanks
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31x10.5 Toyo Open Country AT
"I Live, I Ride, I AM.... JEEP!"
"It's not that I'm Lazy, it's that i just dont care!"
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Old 08-31-2009, 10:15 PM   #6
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folding the window down is not that hard couple of bolts one in each of the hinges 4 on the role bar is all just a tip once you remove them use anti seize on the bolt and lube the hinge and clean the seal i dont have lights on the hinges but plan on keeping the jeep for a long time and i loosening all the torx bolts and lube all the hinges every year as a maintenance thing never know when you need to remove them and its nice to know that you can without breaking them o dont forget to take the wipers off "flat head screw driver on the tabs it you dont have nails"
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:50 AM   #7
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Are you asking where to run the leads from your lamps? or where to bring your toggle switch into the cab from the relay? I'm putting my PIAA's on tonight, same windshield location and I plan on running the lamp leads under the cowl (or through it and gromet/caulk the hole). I'm running the toggle from the relay into the cab through the firewall hole (pre-fabbed by Jeep). You will see a black patch of rubbery electric tape like material covering the hole. If you look under the steering column about 4" to the left of the gas pedal and up about 6" you will see it. I straightened out an old metal coat hanger and pushed it through, then I was able to locate it in the engine bay and thread all the wires through. I can post pictures tonight after I'm finished if there is any more confusion.
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runit3 View Post
Are you asking where to run the leads from your lamps? or where to bring your toggle switch into the cab from the relay? I'm putting my PIAA's on tonight, same windshield location and I plan on running the lamp leads under the cowl (or through it and gromet/caulk the hole). I'm running the toggle from the relay into the cab through the firewall hole (pre-fabbed by Jeep). You will see a black patch of rubbery electric tape like material covering the hole. If you look under the steering column about 4" to the left of the gas pedal and up about 6" you will see it. I straightened out an old metal coat hanger and pushed it through, then I was able to locate it in the engine bay and thread all the wires through. I can post pictures tonight after I'm finished if there is any more confusion.

cool, thanks - i think i know which hole your talking about, have my amp wire running thru it.. my relay has the wire that goes to the switch (and wire is short) i will have to mount it very close to switch which will be close to where the ash tray would be located.

my problem is there is a wire that goes to the battery that i guess i could run thru the hole by the pedal but not sure if it will make it all the way to the battery..

pics will help out alot.. thanks again.
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"I Live, I Ride, I AM.... JEEP!"
"It's not that I'm Lazy, it's that i just dont care!"
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:02 PM   #9
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I c. You really want to keep the relay within 4' of the lamps and the batt, like an inline amp fuse.
If the toggle wire is not long enough to make it out into the engine bay the easiest and most cost efficient option is to find some 16-22ga (gauge depends on how many watts your lamps are using. 55w-75w 20-22ga should be fine, higher use lower gauge) primary wire at the local parts/hardware store (or some lying around your garage) and splice about 6-8" past the relay, run the spliced primary wire into the cab and then re-splice the toggle lead.

Batt----Relay---------//splice//---primary-------------//splice//---Toggle Switch
Lamps--^^^
That's the crudest diagram I could get going, I'll have the pics posted tomorrow.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runit3 View Post
I c. You really want to keep the relay within 4' of the lamps and the batt, like an inline amp fuse.
If the toggle wire is not long enough to make it out into the engine bay the easiest and most cost efficient option is to find some 16-22ga (gauge depends on how many watts your lamps are using. 55w-75w 20-22ga should be fine, higher use lower gauge) primary wire at the local parts/hardware store (or some lying around your garage) and splice about 6-8" past the relay, run the spliced primary wire into the cab and then re-splice the toggle lead.

Batt----Relay---------//splice//---primary-------------//splice//---Toggle Switch
Lamps--^^^
That's the crudest diagram I could get going, I'll have the pics posted tomorrow.

thanks Runit.. good info.. good diagram as well..
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15x8 Rebel Racing (Blackout Rims)
31x10.5 Toyo Open Country AT
"I Live, I Ride, I AM.... JEEP!"
"It's not that I'm Lazy, it's that i just dont care!"
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:43 PM   #11
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Allright so here it is:

1) Have girlfriend/shop monkey unscrew 2 outer cowl screws on passenger and driver side.
It's fairly thin sheet metal and you can lift it up slightly without bending it to slide your wires, I'm too lazy to uncouple it and take it off, no point.


2) Slide lamp harness wires up through the cowl, connect with lamp lead, and then tuck it all back underneath the cowl. When you tuck it beneath the cowl and back into the engine bay make sure the wires run AROUND the rubber grommet, this is where the hood closes and seals with the engine bay.


3) Harness shown, my toggle switch lead out was fairly long and the toggle power wire (white with red dashes) was even longer. This would be the time to splice any wires that you know you will need lengthened. I would have needed to splice out the toggle leads if I wanted the switch on the dash or in the middle console, I 3M'd it to the left of the steering wheel about stomach level.


4) The toggle wire came through this hole, it is to the left of the pedal and down a bit, you can see the wires faintly coming through.


5) This is the other side of the toggle switch where it connects to the harness in the engine bay, i tucked mine behind the coolant line container.
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:50 PM   #12
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6) I used my daytime running lights to splice with what the manual calls "The toggle power line". Essentially it is a 12v remote lead, same principle as an amp, on when the car (or in this case the daytime lights) are on, but off when the car is shut-off. With the daytime lamps there are two white w/green striped wires and one black, I randomly chose one of the white ones, It was the middle one. They both probably work fine but I didn't splice it again to test the theory, just don't connect it to anything black.


7) That's how much room I had to position the switch with, I could have pulled in more of the harness wire or spliced and extended but I'm happy with it where it is.


When I get my roof rack and I have 4 fogs on top, 2 on windshield, 2 driving beams, and 2 more reverse lights I'll spend the 50 bucks or so and buy a nice illuminated toggle console and I'll have to re-splice all of the lines and probably do some make-shift splicing; Until then these are the best pics I got.
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:01 PM   #13
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cool.. thanks... nice write up also..

this will help

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31x10.5 Toyo Open Country AT
"I Live, I Ride, I AM.... JEEP!"
"It's not that I'm Lazy, it's that i just dont care!"
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