My coworker has a 2007 Wrangler X Unlimited with 323,454 miles on it with the 3.8L V6.
She just had the O2 sensors replaced two weeks ago. Also changed the ignition coil pack with new plugs and wires about a month ago. The ECM was replaced due to a short about a month and a half ago. Oil and filter was replaced about two months ago.
This morning she stated there was an odd noise coming from the engine. It sounded like a knocking noise, but wasn't able to tell where it was coming from.
We went out to look at it, she started the engine. It ran for a couple of seconds before stalling out. Now, when you turn the key, there is only a clicking noise from the starter. All of the lights on the IP light up, but no-go on starting the engine. When you try to start the engine, you can see the belt tighten up and looks like all of the various pullies try to turn, but the engine won't turn over.
We've unplugged the battery and cleaned the terminals. The battery seems to still have enough strength, but the engine won't start.
Does anyone have any idea on what might be causing this? We'd like to get it fixed today, otherwise she's stuck 70 miles from home.
No answer but at over 300k that Jeep has had a long life!
2014 JKR Granite Crystal, 5.13 Auto: RK X Factor 2.5 Inch Lift, Artec Front and Rear Truss, Artec Rear LCA Mounts/Skids, Poison Spyder HD Crossmember, Rock Hard Gas/TC/Evap/Oil Skids, Rough Country Front & Rear Diff Sliders, Nitto Trail Grapplers 37x12.5x17, Pro Comp 97 Series Wheels, Synergy Weld On Rear Trackbar Bracket, PSC Hydroassist, T6 Aluminum Tie Rod.
Does it throw any codes? I had a similar issue with my 08 JKUR. It would throw a camshaft and crankshaft position code if I recall correctly. Dealership replaced the camshaft position senor only to have the issue continue the following day. They then replaced my starter and have not had the issue since. Luckily mine is still under warranty.
David - 2008 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon - Yes it goes anywhere, no you can't drive it!
Ended up running to Sears and picking up a code reader. This is what came up:
P0031 - O2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit Low
P0037 - O2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit Low
P0051 - O2 Sensor 2/1 Heater Circuit Low
P0057 - O2 Sensor 2/2 Heater Circuit Low
P0562 - System Under Voltage
I can't think of why the first four should still be showing up since the O2 sensors were changed, but I think the last one kicked on because I tried starting the engine and it flagged that the alternator wasn't turning.
Originally Posted by Nerosync
They then replaced my starter and have not had the issue since.
You're the second person to mention the starter, so that's probably going to be the first thing checked. Fortunately, it doesn't appear too difficult to change. She's getting it towed to her son-in-law's house to get it changed, so hopefully this'll resolve the issue.
Run, knock, and stall with no restart. That sounds like it may have spun a bearing or threw a Rod.
How was the oil level? At 300,000+ miles that engine is likely pretty tired.
A dead engine that will not turn over, will not show any accurate/usable engine codes. Seeing the starter try and crank (flexing in the belts) would lead me to believe the cam may have failed, possibly the timing chain.
You could remove the belt and see if you can turn the crank by hand.
__________________ Jeff _(OIIIO)_
08 Black and Khaki JK Sahara Unlimited, Dual Tops, MyGig, Tow pkg, Trax-Lok Rear Diff,
Mods -- 3.5" Rock Krawler front springs, 2.5 TerraFlex BB, PitBull Rockers 37x12.50x17 on ProComp 7069 alloys, AEV Premium Bumper,
Run, knock, and stall with no restart. That sounds like it may have spun a bearing or threw a Rod. How was the oil level? At 300,000+ miles that engine is likely pretty tired. A dead engine that will not turn over, will not show any accurate/usable engine codes. Seeing the starter try and crank (flexing in the belts) would lead me to believe the cam may have failed, possibly the timing chain. You could remove the belt and see if you can turn the crank by hand.
Agree 100%, I would say something came loose with the cam shaft causing it to bind somewhere, take the belt off and try and spin it by hand. At 300k+ miles though that's about when the big problems will start to happen all at once