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Old 03-28-2014, 07:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by strokerswild View Post
mine has just over 10k miles. I pulled a little more out this morning, and this is the result after settling all day:
yikes!

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Old 03-28-2014, 08:29 PM   #32
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A chemical reaction with solder used by certain mfgs of the heater core and oil cooler sounds possible. In which case a flush and refill won't work, and is probably why they are replacing radiators, heater cores, oil coolers, etc. I wonder if a different coolant after a complete flush would work? If they caught it before things started plugging up? I'm just thinking out loud again.
I went back out to my Jeep last night to check the reservoir. I had sand in mine a little while back, the dealer flushed it, and I was sent on my way. I thought that the color was shifting from purple to orange-ish again but after taking a close look it is grape purple. There is no more sand anywhere. I would entertain using an EC-1 coolant but the OAT coolant is already a similar composition. I got looks from the dealer just from the green Kristall Klar in my washer fluid bottle so I'm not about to change to a different color coolant yet.

Then again, I caught mine pretty early on. If I have any changes I'll report it here.

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Old 03-29-2014, 06:40 AM   #33
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Mine has just over 10K miles. I pulled a little more out this morning, and this is the result after settling all day:
You have got a problem. That might be casting sand. Dealer should address that ASAP. My coolant is dis-colored after 5K miles but no sediment.
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Old 03-29-2014, 07:00 AM   #34
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I went back out to my Jeep last night to check the reservoir. I had sand in mine a little while back, the dealer flushed it, and I was sent on my way. I thought that the color was shifting from purple to orange-ish again but after taking a close look it is grape purple. There is no more sand anywhere. I would entertain using an EC-1 coolant but the OAT coolant is already a similar composition. I got looks from the dealer just from the green Kristall Klar in my washer fluid bottle so I'm not about to change to a different color coolant yet.

Then again, I caught mine pretty early on. If I have any changes I'll report it here.
Yes hopefully they caught it early on. Like I said I was thinking out loud, it is quite evident there's a problem, how widespread is unknown. I have a feeling a good universal coolant is the answer, but like you said if you change it, and they see its a different color, you'll be SOL if you have a problem. An early flush and refill with the same stuff might work, assuming there isn't a problem with a coolant and solder reaction. If there is then all bets are off.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:16 AM   #35
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Check out Purple/orange coolant thread for good info on this problem. Sorry to say it doesn't sound good when sediment is present.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:50 AM   #36
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I just posted this in another thread so I am just gonna copy and past my response so if it doesn't fully make sense that's why....

@strokerswild, your photos of the coolant in the jar are an EXACT representation of the fig1 pictures that were on the starcase that I couldn't copy. figure 2 was just a pic of a gunky looking rad cap

I also work for Chrysler as an advisor, used to be a technician for chrysler but now I enjoy keeping my tools in my home shop for my own projects....

I haven't seen the gunk in the overflows of the wranglers yet but their was plenty of issues with the 200's and other chrysler vehicles using HOAT or OAT, so it isn't a surprise to me. Chrysler has a "star case" related to this, (like a service bulletin but called star case)

Case Number: S1207000008
Release Date: 12/12/2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Poor Heater System Performance
Note: Sludge may build up and restrict coolant flow in the heater core. The heater core may still be restricted even if sludge is not visible in the overflow bottle.
Diagnosis:
1. Remove radiator cap and inspect coolant overflow bottle for buildup of sludge on. See (FIG1) and (FIG2)
2. Is sludge found in the coolant overflow bottle?
a. Yes >>> Proceed to repair procedure.
b. No >>> Proceed to step 3.
3. Re install the radiator cap and run the engine until operating temperature is reached.
4. Operate the HVAC in full heat panel setting and inspect that heat is produced on both sides of the vehicle.
5. Is heat produced on both sides of the vehicle?
a. Yes >>> This Star Case does not apply.
b. No >>> Proceed to repair procedure.
Repair Procedure: If Sludge is found in the radiator overflow bottle or poor heat is produced by the HVAC system the following repair procedure should be followed
.
1. Flush cooling system with Mopar Cooling System Flush
Note: Repeat flushing until the system produces clear water.
2. Replace the following components
 Radiator
 Heater core
 Radiator cap
 Engine Oil Cooler
3. Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant and perform verification.

That's at least a partial copy, I couldn't copy the photo's which were just a picture of coolant gunk in a beaker and another of gunk under the radiator cap. If you have the gunk in the system and are still under warranty I would get something done about it. If your out of warranty I'd have at least a system flush done. really not sure why it builds up if it was due to a bad batch of coolant or due to the solder in the heater core not being compatible with the coolants used, this star case applied to vehicles with HOAT and OAT coolants....I would pay particularly close attention to your heating system performance as it hasn't seemed to cause any problems other than with the heater that I am aware, usually it will start to blow out colder on one side of the vehicle than the other side, for example with engine warm sitting at idle in park/neutral, put the heater on vent mode and high fan speed, if you put one hand by the vent furthest left and the other hand on the vent furthest right and you can tell a noticeable difference in heat output, I have don't it with a thermometer and noticed differences in heat output side to side of up to 30-50 degrees in temperature....which indicates heater core starting to clog, directly flushing the heater core separate from the rest of the system sometimes helps other times it doesn't...worth a shot if not under warranty tho
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:52 AM   #37
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I haven't really noticed the purple changing to an orange color over time, ill have to keep an eye out for that but that ones new to me....ill start checking them as they come in and record their milage/years to see if we can find a pattern as to why/when it changes....
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:26 AM   #38
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ChucksAuto, thanks for the star case info, I'll be forwarding that to the dealer as well.
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:43 AM   #39
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I haven't really noticed the purple changing to an orange color over time, ill have to keep an eye out for that but that ones new to me....ill start checking them as they come in and record their milage/years to see if we can find a pattern as to why/when it changes....
I just pulled some fluid out from my overflow tank and put it in a clear glass. With normal light is is purple. When you put a bright light on it, it appears orange. Wonder if Chrysler took orange OAT and just added purple dye to it, leaving some orange dye in the mix?
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:45 PM   #40
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I just pulled some fluid out from my overflow tank and put it in a clear glass. With normal light is is purple. When you put a bright light on it, it appears orange. Wonder if Chrysler took orange OAT and just added purple dye to it, leaving some orange dye in the mix?
Per a Chrysler employee that is exactly what happened. Sounds like Fiat was using OAT and when they took over the HOAT that Chrysler was using was too close in color to the OAT that Fiat used so to prevent mistakes they dyed the orange OAT (Fiat) purple so in this country there would be some other delineation between the older orange HOAT and the newer OAT.

The employee also stated that they are also finding that the purple dye fades making the OAT coolant look more like it's orange brother.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:12 AM   #41
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One more pic, taken after my sample settled all weekend. Normal purple on top, weird slime on the bottom. The stuff on the bottom is almost like snot (it's not sand), for lack of a better description. I can't wait to hear from the dealer today.....
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:26 AM   #42
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I can tell you that that is NOT normal. I would insist on a complete coolant flush. I wonder if Chrysler put purple dye in orange HOAT?
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:39 AM   #43
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:19 AM   #44
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Have you ever thought about calling the dealership and asking them. I'll tell you how to do it. Open the phone book. Look for Automobile, then dealership, and then the one closest to you. And then, you grab the bat phone, call, ask for Service. Simple as that.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:02 AM   #45
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Have you ever thought about calling the dealership and asking them. I'll tell you how to do it. Open the phone book. Look for Automobile, then dealership, and then the one closest to you. And then, you grab the bat phone, call, ask for Service. Simple as that.
This board is about helping people out. The op has done that and was asking if anyone else has had or seen this issue and advice.

Not sure if your intention was to slam the op or not ...but to me it was uncalled for. Very not cool
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:28 AM   #46
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Have you ever thought about calling the dealership and asking them. I'll tell you how to do it. Open the phone book. Look for Automobile, then dealership, and then the one closest to you. And then, you grab the bat phone, call, ask for Service. Simple as that.
Really? Are you for real??? Kindly step off (to put it politely).

Trust me, the dealer knows what's up....and I have yet to get a response today.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:37 PM   #47
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Have you ever thought about calling the dealership and asking them. I'll tell you how to do it. Open the phone book. Look for Automobile, then dealership, and then the one closest to you. And then, you grab the bat phone, call, ask for Service. Simple as that.
Looks to me, from reading this thread, he has talked to them. Twice anyway & and sent pictures. When I went to the dealer for a similar issue they had no clue, so no, it's not always as simple as that.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:32 PM   #48
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Simple as that.
I have been through this issue with my '13. Correcting the problem in mine involved 5 trips to the dealer and approximately 28 days on their lot before it was fixed. It wasn't simple as that.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:21 AM   #49
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I have been through this issue with my '13. Correcting the problem in mine involved 5 trips to the dealer and approximately 28 days on their lot before it was fixed. It wasn't simple as that.
Do tell.....that's not really what I wanted to hear. Were they able to get your Jeep apart and back together without a ton of new squeaks and rattles?

My wife is ready for me to dump this one too and go back to a Ford pickup, the last of which was good for nine years of flawless motoring - and then I thought I wanted another Jeep. My '12 was so full of bugs I cut my losses after less than a year and ordered my '13 and now this BS.....
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #50
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Stokerswild-I wonder if you coolant was mixed causing the precipitate? Hhhmmm
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:15 AM   #51
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Do tell.....that's not really what I wanted to hear. Were they able to get your Jeep apart and back together without a ton of new squeaks and rattles?

My wife is ready for me to dump this one too and go back to a Ford pickup, the last of which was good for nine years of flawless motoring - and then I thought I wanted another Jeep. My '12 was so full of bugs I cut my losses after less than a year and ordered my '13 and now this BS.....
Well, I had 2 2012's which we traded in for a 2013 and a 2014 because of head problem. Chrysler quality really stinks. But good news maybe that a flush takes care of your problem, especially if your heat is still working.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:53 AM   #52
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Really? Are you for real??? Kindly step off (to put it politely).

Trust me, the dealer knows what's up....and I have yet to get a response today.
I hear ya! What are the odds of you getting the right answer or an honest answer? My local dealer service writer is still claiming he hasn't done a head swap on a 2012 Wrangler yet. Should I believe him?
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:00 AM   #53
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Well, mine goes in (for the second time) tomorrow morning. I didn't ask when I got the call a couple minutes ago, but I would assume I'm getting a system flush this time.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:50 PM   #54
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I have been through this issue with my '13. Correcting the problem in mine involved 5 trips to the dealer and approximately 28 days on their lot before it was fixed. It wasn't simple as that.
+1

First winter with my '12 JKUS, they replaced everything.

2nd winter (this yr) - problem recurred. Had to take it in 3x within a 2-week period before it got better (not "right" IMO but better).

The first 2x this year, they simply "re-calibrated the blend doors". I wasn't optomistic when I saw that the first time... FURIOUS when I saw that's all they did the second.

Back for the 3rd...before they finally flushed the system. It's a lot better than it was - passable, but I don't think it's quite the blast furnace I know it has been.

So yes... they may know "what's up" - but that doesn't necessarily mean they're out to do you right.

I'll definitely be doing this test sometime before my 36k expires. Haven't made it through a winter yet w/o problem... I've got no reason to expect next year will be any better.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:49 AM   #55
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Hey gang, is this just a problem with the '12, '13 & '14 vehicles??? I have a JK Sahara Unlimited with the 3.8..2007. No problems in the last yea an a half that I have owned it. Now almost 80,000 miles on it. The heater works great and the coolant looks good. I haven't had to top off all this winter. When did this sand business show up?? Since I bought this vehicle used, not sure if this "problem" has already been addressed. Also own a 2006 Liberty, same engine and miles, no problems yet, knock on wood.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:34 PM   #56
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It's a '13-up thing.....

I got my Jeep back a few minutes ago. They flushed it twice and refilled. I asked what the crud was, and all I got was that it was the result of a chemical reaction. I asked if it would recur, and was told that it shouldn't. It was like asking for nuclear secrets.

According to the invoice (it was covered by warranty), they refilled it using 68048953AB coolant. I looked the number up, and this is the 5-year, 100,000 mile stuff. WTF???

Is the solution to this issue to refill with the pre-2013 coolant? Or did they totally screw up???
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:09 PM   #57
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What color is it now (drawn out and viewed in a clear glass)?
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:24 PM   #58
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I have yet to pull any, but it looks hot pink in the tank. Definitely not purple.
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:13 PM   #59
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Well, at least they didn't refill it with mixed HOAT and OAT so you should be OK. I would continue to watch the overflow tank for more sediment. At least they DID something this time.
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:38 PM   #60
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Or did they totally screw up???
TSB - 07-004-12 REV. A mentions it is a really bad idea.

Here is a cut and paste:

NOTE: If OAT (MOPAR P/N 68163848AA Purple) has been Mixed with HOAT (MOPAR P/N 68048953AB Pink Or Factory Fill HOAT Orange (Fig. 2) or (Fig. 3)) or any other coolants have been mixed, it will be necessary to flush the cooling system.


Maybe they got 100% of the old coolant out, but you will have to make certain no OAT is added to it in the future, even though that is what the book calls for.


In short, it appears they put improper coolant in your Jeep. Unfortunately, it probably needs to go back for another flush and fill.

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