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Old 06-06-2014, 11:28 PM   #1
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2014 fog lights CANBUS?

Need some help please. Picked up a bumper with 40 LEDs and the installer said the switch wasn't powering correctly. Then my local Jeep shop said that even with an additional relay (switched by fog light switch) the lights would turn on, flash a few times then off.

All this evidence (and forum searching) leads me to think that this is a CANBUS system, the LED is returning a different load than expected, powers off thusly, and that I'll need a new switch.

Am I unthinking this? Can I get the stock switch to work?

Thanks!

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Old 06-07-2014, 06:32 AM   #2
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The power for your LEDs should be coming directly from your battery to ensure you aren't messing with any other systems. If you run a properly fused wire from the battery to the original switch and then to the LEDs, there should be no issue. If you want to operate the LEDs off the fog light switch, you should be able to make that work as well, but again, you supply power should come directly from the battery to the relay. Do you know where they tapped in to power the LEDs?

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Old 06-07-2014, 07:07 AM   #3
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Right that's. Relayed from the switch power from the battery
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:26 AM   #4
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Do you know how the original installer had the switch wired before the relay was added?
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:48 AM   #5
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No clue. He says it didn't work and wanted a new switch so took it to my trusted shop
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:18 PM   #6
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I would try running it direct from battery through a simple switch to see if they light properly. If that works ok, then you can troubleshoot why the relay isn't working.
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:44 PM   #7
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Thanks will do!
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:04 PM   #8
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Any update on whether you got the LED bumper lights functioning properly .
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:26 AM   #9
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The problem is trying to use the factory fog switch. These are not regular switches that most of us are use to. New vehicles use a can bus system to operate the vehicle functions. Think of it as a network, for example in the steering column instead of individual wires running from each switch to the intended function (horn, fog lights, turn signal, etc) the controls are connected to the body computer. When you press the horn it sends a message to the computer saying "I want to honk" then the computer activates the relay for the horn.

It's obviously more complicated than this but this type of system uses less wiring and allows easier configuration of the vehicle.

So to answer your question, for your lights you will need to install an aftermarket switch bypassing the can bus system.

If you are going to install more aftermarket electrical items I would look into the spod system.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:10 PM   #10
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dwt, a solution worked for a day then no longer.... Annoyed...

zak, I'm pondering that. Question on the spod - is it activated by the key or simple not let the battery drain beyond what it needs to crank and turnover?
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WredTJ View Post
zak, I'm pondering that. Question on the spod - is it activated by the key or simple not let the battery drain beyond what it needs to crank and turnover?
Works separately of the ignition and yes it does have a low voltage cut off.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:36 PM   #12
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Keep in mind that with the low voltage cutoff, if your battery is on its last leg, it may drain it below the battery's ability to start the motor. Additionally, if you routinely drain the battery down to the point of the low voltage cutoff, it will significantly shorten the life of your battery.

What solution did you use that worked for a day?
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:38 AM   #13
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dwt - thanks for the info. by bridging both left and right lights with a 50k ohm resistor on each side. it worked for a day , then nothing. Cannot explain.

Thanks for the add'l info on the downside of voltage cutoffs.

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'14 JK Willys auto! Mods: AEV 2.5" lift with geometry correction brackets, Duratrac "35s" on AEV Savegres, AntiRock front, ACE: side steps + flat fenders + front & rear bumpers, Q9500I winch, SpiderWebShade
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