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Old 06-18-2014, 12:17 AM   #1
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3.5" lift

I tried searches. I've got a Rubicon Express 3.5" complete lift kit on its way. I know it has the exhaust spacers brake lines etc. has anyone needed to modify/replace their drive shafts or do I just need to monitor it? I do have front and rear steel bumpers and a winch up front so it should be 3.5" maybe less. Thank you in advance.

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Old 06-18-2014, 12:23 AM   #2
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I also want to say I'm probably going to have 4 wheel parts install the lift. since it would only be a short distance could I run the new 35" tires just to get it up there? I realize on sharp turns it may rub.

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Old 06-18-2014, 12:44 AM   #3
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JK or JKU? If JK- while there are definitely those who don't have issues (DDs usually)- I'd say its more a matter of "when" than "if". But you can certainly keep an eye on it- might be awhile before you need to replace the DS. Just don't check once and forget it.
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See post 1563.
(JKUs- because of the longer wheelbase are less prone to the issue.)
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:50 AM   #4
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its a JKUR so hopefully that will help.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:01 AM   #5
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Install the lift first then the tires.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:06 AM   #6
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You will be fine with the tires first. Just take it easy.
That is how I did mine, but it was 70 miles from tires to lift.
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #7
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Thank you guys for your responses so far. It's like 25 miles away so a lot closer than 70
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
JK or JKU? If JK- while there are definitely those who don't have issues (DDs usually)- I'd say its more a matter of "when" than "if". But you can certainly keep an eye on it- might be awhile before you need to replace the DS. Just don't check once and forget it.
Jeeperformance, Inc. streaming Shop photos
See post 1563.
(JKUs- because of the longer wheelbase are less prone to the issue.)
Agree with this. You should plan to do the front when you do your lift. Otherwise you're wheeling it until it breaks. If you don't do it right away, may want to see if you can get a spare front OEM DS to carry with you on the trails.

Also keep an eye on the rear, they don't hold up to rock abuse. I went through 2 OEM rears before changing it out for a 1350. I did a 1310 up front when I had my RK 2.5" installed.
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:04 PM   #9
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Running a year with over 3.5"of lift on my 2 door and no DS problems so far.
I'll wait till they puke out before changing either of them.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:53 PM   #10
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Running a year with over 3.5"of lift on my 2 door and no DS problems so far. I'll wait till they puke out before changing either of them.
*knock on wood*
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:55 PM   #11
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Haha just posted about this as im looking at this lift too! 2 door as well. I plan on adding all the supporting mods just want to do it over a period of time and wondering if i can get away with it for a while.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:03 PM   #12
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Haha just posted about this as im looking at this lift too! 2 door as well. I plan on adding all the supporting mods just want to do it over a period of time and wondering if i can get away with it for a while.
I bought the 3.5" complete kit. That comes with exhaust extensions, brake lines, shocks etc. supposedly I'll be ok since the 4door is longer. I will probably do the front driveshaft at some point.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:14 AM   #13
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For anyone wondering why a front driveshaft is a necessity when lifting your jk, here's a good example. A 2010 JK with a 3" lift, and the installer didn't sell this customer a conventional driveshaft, and the first time he tried a few mild trails, the shaft hit the side of the trans and bent the trans pan, causing the leak, not to mention the damage to the boot, which makes these factory shafts lifetime very short. This shows why exhaust spacers are really a waste of $$, and a good quality driveshaft is an investment.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:32 AM   #14
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For anyone wondering why a front driveshaft is a necessity when lifting your jk, here's a good example. A 2010 JK with a 3" lift, and the installer didn't sell this customer a conventional driveshaft, and the first time he tried a few mild trails, the shaft hit the side of the trans and bent the trans pan, causing the leak, not to mention the damage to the boot, which makes these factory shafts lifetime very short. This shows why exhaust spacers are really a waste of $$, and a good quality driveshaft is an investment.
Aren't the exhaust spacers just for the '12 and newer 3.6L Pentastar?
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:23 AM   #15
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There's guys on another forum paying a exhaust shop to move the cross pipe back. I've seen $50 to $100
Something to consider
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:09 PM   #16
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Yikes, thank goodness i got manual haha. And hmm that is an idea. Was thinking about this all day today. Tomorrow is pay day haha
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Aren't the exhaust spacers just for the '12 and newer 3.6L Pentastar?
That's correct
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:52 PM   #18
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There's guys on another forum paying a exhaust shop to move the cross pipe back. I've seen $50 to $100 Something to consider
Do you remember if it's a JK or JKU? AFE says it can't be done on a JK. No room. Interested if someone else has figured it out.
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:28 PM   #19
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Do you remember if it's a JK or JKU? AFE says it can't be done on a JK. No room. Interested if someone else has figured it out.
Just buy a driveshaft, it's not a matter of if, but when it will be done anyway. The exhaust is a temporary bandaid
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:34 PM   #20
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Just buy a driveshaft, it's not a matter of if, but when it will be done anyway. The exhaust is a temporary bandaid
True
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:52 PM   #21
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Just buy a driveshaft, it's not a matter of if, but when it will be done anyway. The exhaust is a temporary bandaid
Agreed. I put in a Tom Woods Per your suggestion. I have a RR evap. Skid/tank holder that won't fit because of the crossover and resonator on the driver's side. RR claimed it fit a 2012 at the time- bought open box and couldn't return. JPI garage sale......
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:44 PM   #22
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Here's the post

"With a 1310 shaft, you can run around 26"-27" (extended length of shock, using stock mounts). The easiest and best solution after that is to push the exhaust back to the crossmember. Exhaust spacers are junk. There are two good locations on each side of the exhaust to cut and extend without pushing the exhaust crossover below the crossmember. After doing that, there should be zero clearance issues (unless the suspension installed would also contact the crossmember, which I believe is the same location as pre 2012?)"
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:33 AM   #23
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I've been back and forth with several places and finally just called rubicon express directly. Per them if you install the standard kit with the included shocks the down travel is limited so you don't need a front driveshaft. If you want to really wheel and flex install the longer shocks from their 4.5" lift kit and a new 36.5" driveshaft and you are good to go for real wheeling. Based on this info I'll be ok for now but this summer I will be saving for a new driveshaft and install the longer travel front shocks to get full flex.

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