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AC won't engage - Child on the way

18K views 64 replies 16 participants last post by  kik 
#1 ·
Hey Folks,

I have a 2013JK, AC worked great when I drove it off the lot 2 years ago but within a month it started to get warmer and warmer. I had brought it back and the Dealership "topped it off" and it seemed better for a few weeks.

This was roughly the time I got a soft top, and I never really used my AC again. 2 years later and 60,000 miles I'm out of warranty & My ac doesn't blow cold air at all and it doesn't even seem like the compressor engages. With a child due in August, I'm going to need to get the AC looked at before my wife gives birth so I can keep the jeep a bit cooler for the newborn, especially once I put the hardtop and doors back on.

Any suggestions? I took one of those "AC refill" tanks and used the gauge on it, shows it in the yellow, borderline red. I did not try to add more in, especially since it "appears" full and I don't think the compressor is turning on. Fuses seem fine, the Wire that connects into the compressor appears to be in all the way. Anything else I can look at before calling the dealer\local jeep garage?

Thanks!

-Chris
 
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#2 ·
If the refrigerant is too low the compressor won't turn on. It sounds like you had a leak in the system the whole time that should have been taken care of by the dealer. Having to add refrigerant means that there was a leak in the system. Either the system stays full or it leaks out. The dealer adding refrigerant just puts a band aide on it and doesn't solve the problem. It's too bad that so much time has gone by. The over the counter A/C refill systems will only work if there's a slight leak, and it will be temporary. They don't solve the problem and are really a waste of money. I would take it to a private shop that specializes in auto A/C repair. You might just have a minor seal leak that can be easily taken care of. The shop will most likely charge the system and add a dye where they can actually see where the leak is.
 
#3 ·
I agree with this. Any leak is a big leak. AC isnt something that needs to be topped off. Take it to a shop that works on AC, not the dealership. Fortunately AC parts are generally pretty cheap and easy to diagnose.

If the compressor isnt engaging, it is probably one of two things. Bad pressure switch or a problem with the clutch. I have not had to mess with my Jeeps AC, but I know my F250's system like the back of my hand. Ensure it has pressure, then unplug the pressure switch. Jumping the plug should cause your clutch to engage. If that does nothing you probably need a new compressor.
 
#5 ·
Brought the jeep to a garage the does AC diagnostics, the compressor won't turn on no matter what they do. Everything else appears to test fine, but the AC won't engage even when applying power directly to it.

Looking at 900$ to replace the compress and accumulator (parts & Labor). Called the original dealership who looked at it when I purchased it and they won't honor any warranty work since I'm so far out of warranty and they looked at it 2 years ago (no big surprise I guess). They told me I can call Chrysler and plead my case there and they may over-ride the dealer and honor the warranty, so that's my next step. My local jeep shop said I can find used parts to try and swap in, which may cut the price in half.

Guess I should of made a stink about this when I bought the jeep and not just taken the doors and top off and never used the AC besides the first 2 weeks after I bought it. Lesson learned.
 
#6 ·
you can ruin a compressor fairly quick with no fluid, also the refrigerant has the oil for seals in it so running it without refrigerant or low can cause problems. How much are they charging in labor? did they separate it all for you or just give a total price? its an easy repair but does require a vacuum. Find an AC guy he will have nitrogen he can plug into the system with 300 PSI and that'll tell you if there is a leak. Once the pressure drops and the system equalizes its easy for air to get in the system and it brings moisture which means no more cold air because freon isn't circulating and a compressor is burning up having no oil but rather air and moisture.
 
#7 ·
Didn't break it down for the quote, all they said is:

"Verified concern, performed diagnosis, found ac compressor does not turn on, performed pinpoint tests, fuses and relays ok, test power and grounds, all good right up to the compressor. recommend replacing the ac compressor and accumulator. 915% parts and labor, 3 days to get parts"

Bringing it to a jeep dealer today for a follow up diagnosis so I can get a Chrysler case manager to review the case and see if it will fall under the original warranty when it first had issues and didn't get fixed.
 
#8 ·
Did they charge the system? like mentioned before the compressor wont engage with no fluid, psi is needed aka charge. Compressors are about 600 bucks with a clutch so 900 sounds like there rebuilding or screwing you saying its one thing but it really just a fuse or something simple. I don't trust mechanics, I have had a lot of bad experiences, but that's not the case with every mechanic obviously. but 600 for a compressor plus an accumulator labor and a charge? that's either a really good deal or something else is going on.
 
#9 ·
jwalters, if you read what the OP said the shop bypassed the pressure switches and were still unable to get the compressor to engage. You don't have to charge the system when you supply power directly to the compressor clutch. So, there's a problem with the compressor at the very least.

If the system has no refrigerant in it then that it something else altogether, but it doesn't sound like they evacuated the system and checked for leaks, they stopped when they couldn't get the compressor to engage.
 
#10 ·
power to a car without fuel doesn't mean it'll run... Freon puts 300 psi to the compressor as a safety without the pressure the compressor wont run with or without power its designed to save itself in a failure. if not everytime someone ran out of Freon they would have to buy a new compressor.
 
#11 ·
Ok, you're still not getting it.

The high and low pressure switches are there to prevent the compressor from killing itself, that is true.

However, a shop can BYPASS those switches by supplying 12v directly to the A/C compressor clutch and, if it's working right, it WILL engage the clutch. You don't even have to have the engine running to see if the clutch will try to engage, it's obvious by looking at and listening to the compressor pulley.

They can then perform the same test with the engine running to see if the compressor will spin with the clutch engaged. It's possible that the clutch is bad, the compressor is seized, etc, so just engaging the clutch without the engine running won't tell you if the compressor is actually able to spin.

The system does not need to be charged in order to manually engage and test the compressor's operation.
 
#13 ·
JK's do not use low and high pressure switches, for the most part they were phased out by the late 90's. All JK's use a three wire pressure transducer on the line between the compressor and condenser.

The pressure signal is sent to the PCM(2007-11)/ECM(2012+). You are correct the pressure sensed will cause the system to shut down if pressure is to low or high.

In addition all JK's use a two wire temperature (thermister) on the evaporator core, when temp drops below 41 degrees the compressor is disengaged.

Up to 2010 JK's used a multiplex AC switch in the HVAC control head to send a discrete signal to the CAB module(instrument cluster) which broadcast the AC request signal on the bus.

Starting in 2011 the HVAC controller became a module on the network and broadcasts it's own commands directly to the bus.

The ECM/PCM only senses AC pressure and broadcasts that information where it is picked up by the TIPM. The TIPM uses this and other information to control cooling fans, AC clutch, AC idle bump and other functions. The TIPM will inhibit AC clutch engagement for various reasons including active cooling fan codes or pressure transducer problems. I have seen compressors replaced when all that was wrong was a bad transducer or fan.

The compressor uses a simple electromechanical clutch which attracts two plates together when power and ground are applied to the coil. The clutch can be tested by unplugging the two wire connector and applying ground to the black wire and system voltage to the blue/yellow wire, the plates should engage.

The preferred method of testing would be to use an appropriate scan tool connected to the TIPM. The functional test will bypass errors in the system and attempt to engage the clutch. Compressor clutch circuit fault codes can be stored and are helpful for diagnostics. It is a good idea to test the compressor clutch out of circuit if you are going to apply power, the TIPM is already a grenade with the pin out and there is no need to take a chance.

Be aware current Mopar compressors are having issues with the front seals, oil and Freon leaks onto the belt. We have installed a few that are now being replaced under warranty, Mopar is aware of the problem and hopefully it is fixed by now.
 
#14 ·
That has to be the most intense way to say there is a safety feature lol
 
#15 ·
I ended up working with Chrysler and they are covering the cost (except for a 100$ copay on my part) of the repair work at a Jeep dealer. The jeep dealer quoted me $500-700$. They said there was a part internal in the compressor that appeared to have an issue and if replacing that worked it would be $500 or so, although it could of been the pulley and the failed part which would make it in the $700 range.

They have completed the repair and I'm picking it up in a few hours and I'll update this post with more detailed information as to what part was failed (in case anyone is curious).
 
#17 ·
So they replaced the compressor coil and pulley kit. The compressor turns on now but sounds unhealthy and very loud. Compared to my old 2007 Liberty and my wife's Pontiac, it sounds like something is dying. Kind of a whiny fan noise, and just sounds very rough. Blows slightly colder then outside temperature air. If I keep the engine in the 3-4k rpm range it gets noticeable colder, but as soon as it goes back to idle or 1500 rpm it is back to "room temperature". Had the soft top fully installed and put my hard-doors back on for all of this to try and keep the Jeep as "air tight" as possible.

Granted it was a 98 degree day today, but I still expect a lot more out of a still fairly new jeep (2013, 63,000 miles). I've called the Jeep Dealer back and will be bringing it back in Friday for further diagnosis. Even 10 minutes after I left the dealer, they were unwilling to have someone come out and sit inside the vehicle to see\hear what I was trying to tell them. Regardless I'll call Chrysler support tomorrow and update my case manager. So far this has only cost me 99$ for a diagnosis, and a 100$ deductible. The rest Chrysler has covered on a goodwill basis.
 
#19 ·
Cpike, is this the same dealer that gave you the run-around with this problem before? If so then I would demand that another dealer fix what your incompetent dealer is unable to.
 
#23 ·
Different dealer, I refuse to go to the one I bought the Jeep at and that I originally had a run around with. This dealer I'm not entirely pleased with either. I've had issues with them in the past but they are local (10 miles away from home) and the next closest one is a hour away.

I love the jeep, but dealing with the dealerships for service is seriously starting to annoy me. Maybe its a dealership issue in general, but I'm shocked at how poor service I get from them in my area.
 
#20 ·
sounds like a bad compressor or low Freon...due to the noise/not working unless at high rpms id lean towards bad compressor....if your ac system was really not used for 2 years. that alone can cause Freon to leak out


as far as jeep service goes... ive been really disappointed...it took me 3 visits and contacting chrsyler to get a simple/easy to duplicate brake noise fixed. the first 2 visits they did the cheapest thing they could(much like your coil and pulley). and punted my jeep back to me not fixed...

good luck..i hope they fix it this time around
 
#24 ·
Yeah I'm not impressed with any of my local Chrysler dealerships, I've had Chevy Dealerships who were customers of mine and who worked on my wife's Pontiac and they seem to knock their Service out of the park every time. When I go to a Chrysler dealer for any of my jeeps I'm left with a sour taste in my mouth. Luckily Chrysler corporate is still working with me on this issue, but :censored: its annoying. I have to drive the wife's car while the jeep is in the Dearlership.
 
#25 ·
It should be blowing nice cold air even at idle when it's 100 degrees outside. So they may have fixed something, but not everything. They're not done. Bring it back and do not except it the way it is.
 
#32 ·
Discountacparts.com says they buy directly from the dealer and its 593 for the compressor alone.... I guess they literally order straight from the dealer then add their markup, only way I can see them getting that price.

So survey says 400 bucks not 600 my bad @Tweak
 
#34 ·
Sounds like the dealer has a little more work to do. If you think you've got that bargaining power, go back to them.

On reman vs. new, my rule is to buy new (if I can afford it) on stuff that's a pain to change, since it is often hard to gauge the quality of a remanufacture job. Consider that one mfg may simple clean and repair the cores, while another may completely rebuild, replacing all the wear parts and anything that could fail. I'd not want the former.

On stuff like an AC compressor, strongly consider buying new. Also, I'd not hesitate buying a non-OEM from a reputable brand. You'll probably find that it's the OEM one without a Jeep/Chrysler logo. As jwalters suggests, you might even be able to find out the OEM mfg and seek one of theirs out.
 
#39 ·
You can't fairly compare the Pentastar AC compressor with older ones and argue the price is a ripoff. It's not the same part and it's not a universal design.

The Pentastar accessories bolt directly to the block instead of hanging on brackets. They had to be designed specifically for the new engine. So the market is not flooded with replacement aftermarket units that also fit many other manufacturers engines.

Welcome the the Pentastar world. We're paying the price with bad heads, cracked oil fillers, very difficult spark plug changes and unique parts. I like the way it runs, but I don't really trust is, especially since it has left me stranded.

Gimme a diesel!!!!!!
 
#40 ·
Gimme a diesel!!!!!!
If you think the Pentastar is wonky then a diesel would be even worse thanks to the EPA and CARB. The new (2007+) diesels are horribly complicated and relatively sensitive due to their emission control systems.

I'd happily take a pre-2007 diesel, but I trust current gas engines more than I trust current diesels.
 
#41 ·
Another update:

Spoke with Chrysler, got a different case manager due to my original one being sick. The new case manager has opened an internal ticket with Chrysler's technicians and is having the dealership work with them on diagnosis. I have to bring the Jeep back in Wednesday for a 2 day diagnosis, and then they will give me more information as to why it has intermittent issues have they replaced the coil and the pulley system.
 
#44 ·
Well, I bought a Pentastar after a lot of research, so I've made my decision on that and I like how it runs, but the fact is they do have and have had their problems. And Chrysler designed them to be easily recyclable. That was one of the goals.

It's a car engine with almost no flywheel and built to rev very high. I want low end grunt and long range in a Jeep.

Here are a few of the things annoying about them: A problem head design that had to be re-designed because it was not caught during testing, weak and cracking oil filter/filler necks. Porosity in both the heads and the blocks. The factory has to be watched and carefully follow procedures to make the casting process work. Engines get their water jackets sealed from the factory with silicone and every engine gets stop leak added to the cooling system from the factory. This means re-building them is a problem because you never know if you have a leaker unless you test them after cleaning. Engine specific accessories, like AC pumps and alternators that are not used on any other engines. Very difficult access to the spark plugs and spark plug tubes that are so delicate that they warn you to be extremely careful. The cooling system cannot stand corrosion because of the extremely small passageways and even the dealerships cannot figure out which coolant is in various Jeeps. So, as long as they are working, they drive nicely and run smoothly for an inherently unbalanced design. But the long term ownership, or rebuilding them does not look promising. when it wears out it will probably get tossed in the recycling bin and another one installed. That's OK, I guess.

Yes, they are touchy. I like to think of the Jeep as a vehicle that I can trust out in the mountains and WAY off the beaten track. That maybe I could find a way to keep it going if something breaks out there. Then the Security computer decides to disable it and I'm absolutely stuck.

My 2014 6.7 Cummins gets about the same mileage as my Wrangler and my 2004 does better, even though the trucks weigh twice as much as the Jeep. Cummins efficiency has gone up starting with the 2013 models, because they are using DEF. It's a tradeoff. And the new computers are much harder to hack, so it's not as easy to delete them and the 2012 and earlier. Yes, the Cummins is more efficient even with the latest emissions stuff. And wildly more powerful.

I don't like the diesel's complicated emissions with it's DPF, EGR and DEF and I do live where there is no testing. I'd build a 4 cylinder Cummins for it if I was confidant I'd never have to get it tested. The only real problems Cummins have had with their B series engines were the "53" blocks, the KDP and the VP44 injection pumps. Those are all old news now. My 2004 has 280,000 miles on it and it runs way better than new and still uses no oil. My Passat would pull grades in overdrive and consistently get 39 MPG, tank after tank. My 5 cylinder Mercedes loved to burn waste oil. My 93 Cummins would run on straight motor oil just as well as diesel fuel. It's problem was the tranny couldn't take the power.
 
#52 ·
Willys,

Well alright then. I guess you got told! What prompted that??????? :happyyes:
 
#55 ·
what do the remans go for from mopar? money.
 
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