Looking at installing Speed Bleeders in our JKUs and am just wondering if you folks have any experience with them and what the general consensus may be on them.
I've used them on my 911 and WRX... they worked great, but I didn't subject them to a lot of harsh dirty/dusty environments like a Jeep would encounter.
I also had great results with the motive power bleeder.
I'm old school. No fancy tools or bleeders. Most of the techs I used to work with did the same thing rather than forking over even more cash to the snapon guy.
Buy Gatorade in a glass bottle. Drink the Gatorade and then remove the label.
Then buy a piece of clear tubing that can fit tightly over the bleeder nipple.
Punch a hole in the metal Gatorade cap just big enough to pass the tube through and hold it in place. I used to use a tapered center punch.
Get an old coat hanger and wrap it around the neck of the bottle and then form a hook with the other end so you can hang it under the jeep.
Done.
I used this to bleed brakes solo. Just open the bleeders one at a time and pump away. Watch the fluid in the reservoir and in the tube until it comes out clear. No trouble with air getting trapped if you don't open the bleeder too much and keep an eye on things.
I have done one or two brake jobs in the past 40 years or so. I have bled brakes using everything from coke bottles, drain pans, vacuum pumps, Tygon tubing you name it, big trucks, little cars, race cars, and a few motorcycles.
I was simply asking, and I thank those who have used them and answered. I have seen people waste a Hell of allot more than 28 bucks on items that do a Hell allot less. (would you like to read a long list)
I think I'll get two sets. (I just wont tell anybody that I don't use Gatorade bottles)
FYI I flush my brake system every year. It take about 30 minutes to an hour to do this. I use to different fluids, Motul RBF 600 and Super Blue Racing. The reason for this is one is amber and the other is blue, it help when flushing the system. This might be over kill in a Jeep but it is what I used in my autocross days I have have just kept using it.
The procedure I follow for this is to use a syringe to remove the old fluid from the reservoir the fill it with new fluid. Now attach the Motive cap to the reservoir and start pumping checking for leaks along the way. It should hold pressure at least to 15 psi.
Now here is where I differ from the Motive instructions and I am not the only one. I don't put fluid in the pump. The air pressure only is more than enough to move fluid through the system. The only thing to watch for is to make sure the there is always fluid in the reservoir and once the air pressure get down to 10 PSI take it back to 15.
So now that I have the pressure at 15psi I start with the right rear and crack the valve. I watching 3 things while this happens, looking for a color change in the fluid, watching the fluid level in the reservoir and watching the psi on the tank. Close the valve if you have the color change, need to pump up the tank or need to add fluid. If you need to add fluid remember to take the pressure off the tank first.
Follow up with the LR, RF then last the LF. Take the pressure off the tank and remove it, top up the reservoir and your done. Take it out for a test drive. A word of caution here, the brakes may be soft to start. It seems that todays car need to be hooked up to the dealer diagnostic tool to bleed the brakes properly, i.e. turn the ABS system on. I know this was the case with my Corvettes and I suspect the Jeep is the same. Anyway to fix this do a couple of panic stops where you engage the ABS. The pedal should firm up and stay that way.
And the disclaimer. I don't claim to be an expert but this has been my experience with this tool on both my Jeep and the my Corvettes.
I've a dedicated track day car, and bleed its brakes about 4 times a year. I use a Motive just like TerryC6 (no fluid in the Motive) and with a catch bottle and tube on the bleeder nozzle. I think I found the giant syringe I use to remove the fluid from the reservoir at Autozone, but some folks just use a turkey baster.
I've had speed bleeders on other cars. They work, but I find the Motive easier and faster. Also, the difference between the different Motives is just the cap, and you can buy different caps for different cars. At least in my garage, my one Motive covers all my cars but my Jeep (and it will cover my Jeep when I buy the Jeep cap).
Just to add another log on the fire, I've used one of these "Vizibleed" tools on a number of vehicles, and it works great. I originally bought it to bleed brakes and slave cylinders on my MG Midget; (my son was also too young and short to help), but it works great on all bleeders. It's got a one way valve on the end and it truly is a one man operation; attach, loosen bleeder, and pump until bled. Tighten bleeder, done.
My apologies if the URL didn't work, my phone/internet skills aren't too good.
When I changed my lines I didn't pre fill them, I just let it gravity bleed before pulling the speed bleeder on.
I also have a Motive but messed up the lines by using it as directed and leaving brake fluid in it too long. once I buy new hose I will use it dry, just to apply pressure. Already got the metal Jeep cap.
When I changed my lines I didn't pre fill them, I just let it gravity bleed before pulling the speed bleeder on.
I also have a Motive but messed up the lines by using it as directed and leaving brake fluid in it too long. once I buy new hose I will use it dry, just to apply pressure. Already got the metal Jeep cap.
Agreed. While pre-filling the lines is a good idea and a step taken by a careful mechanic, it is really not needed. I put countless customer cars on the road by using the Gatorade bottle method and without pre-filling the lines. Bench bleeding clutch and brake master cylinders, yes.
Now another old schooler tool is ye olde cheap-ass turkey baster form the grocery store. Use that to suck the old fluid out of clutch and brake master cylinder reservoirs.
The bulb end of the turkey baster can be pulled off and used as a pressure bleeder for the clutch master cylinder. Just remove the reservoir cap and push the rubber bulb onto the opening with your palm.
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