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Old 07-31-2014, 11:14 AM   #1
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Axle shift

I'm really considering moving my rear axle back a little bit. Like 2-3 inches at the most. What all has to be changed, besides the control arms? Is it going to be a bigger project than I'm expecting?
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:19 PM   #2
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You will need to verify driveshaft length and shock mounting. The swaybar will need to be moved back. Check the muffler, parking brake cables, brakelines and speed sensor wires.

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Old 07-31-2014, 12:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwbronco View Post
You will need to verify driveshaft length and shock mounting. The swaybar will need to be moved back. Check the muffler, parking brake cables, brakelines and speed sensor wires.

Bob K.
All of the above, and spring perches probably.
Question........for what purpose are you wanting to move it?
Increased tire clearance, or longer wheelbase, or just?????????????????
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:40 PM   #4
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It's OK to move the axle back to its original location after a lift since it swings slightly forward. You can perform this move by installing 4 adjustable control arms. However, 3" is not advisable. Aside from the impact on the coils/perches seating and the driveshaft you will change the vehicle dynamics.

As Don asked, Why?????
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:03 PM   #5
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That's what I want. I just want to take my axle back to the original position give or take a little bit. I said 1-3 inches because I wasn't sure how far back that is. I'll see if I can attach a pic that shows why I want to move it back
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:07 PM   #6
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This is an okay picture.. Not too great. I feel like my back wheels sit too far forward in the well
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:39 PM   #7
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As per spinlock above, 3" is quite a lot. If you are correcting for lift, take a close look at spring position but most of the other pieces should actually line up better if the axle is moved back in to position. Don't over extend your driveshaft.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:16 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
As per spinlock above, 3" is quite a lot. If you are correcting for lift, take a close look at spring position but most of the other pieces should actually line up better if the axle is moved back in to position. Don't over extend your driveshaft.
what do I look for in the spring positioning? How do I correct it?
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
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what do I look for in the spring positioning? How do I correct it?
All you need to do is as spinlock said....install upper and lower adjustable control arms, then extend them out to where your axle is about in the original position.
As stated above... watch your rear drive shaft so it doesn't get over-extended.
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:31 PM   #10
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I thought the JK has a slip shaft not a slip yoke...

Also, shouldn't his driveshafts be the main focal point to achieve the correct angles when adjusting the control arms?

Just trying to understand the objective...

He may be seeing an optical illusion looking at the rear wheel well as a reference point for centering the rear axle - especially since its asymmetrical.

Not to mention the pic is showing the left rear extended with the tire in a hole.

I want to see it on a flat surface and that same rear stuffed in the well.

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Old 07-31-2014, 10:13 PM   #11
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Wouldn't this make the rear wheels move further back when the system compresses? At full articulation the rear wheel might be too far back creating clearance issues with the flares and rear bumper? Stock configuration with 35" tires will rub the rear bumper..
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:48 AM   #12
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As m998dna says you are under droop in that picture. Your axle moves in an arc, not straight up and down. Under droop(like pictured) its going to move forward(again, exactly as pictured).

If you have no issues with your tires contacting any of the pinch seams forward or rearward before you get full stuff(or at any point during articulation), I wouldnt worry about it. The forward pinch seam is a place people usually hit first, but IMO, just basing off of that picture, that wont happen.

Ideally you would want the center of the tire to hit the highest point in the wheel well under full stuff and not contact anything else that would hang it up.

Get us a picture at full stuff.

Most of the kits will only move the wheel back about an inch to re-center. I think its Metal Cloak specifically that says their arms, at their recommended lengths, will do this.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m998dna View Post
I thought the JK has a slip shaft not a slip yoke... Also, shouldn't his driveshafts be the main focal point to achieve the correct angles when adjusting the control arms? Just trying to understand the objective... He may be seeing an optical illusion looking at the rear wheel well as a reference point for centering the rear axle - especially since its asymmetrical. Not to mention the pic is showing the left rear extended with the tire in a hole. I want to see it on a flat surface and that same rear stuffed in the well. .
yeah, I knew that that was a bad picture, but I was the only one I had on my phone. I'll be back home in a few days, so keep an eye on the thread. I'll have a better pic posted shortly.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:08 AM   #14
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I'm in Florida at the moment, and that was the only pic I had. I'll post a better picture when I get home! Thanks for all the input guys!
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:39 AM   #15
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This axle shift is common on 3.5+ lifts that don't have rear control arms and many people don't mind it at all. The axle travels on an arc and lifting that much moves the axle forward some amount. I personally can see the desire to get it closer to stock position at ride height.

I do also believe that you could over correct and end up too far back at full stuff so some tinkering is probably needed. As is said regularly, every Jeep seems to be just a little different so it isn't an exact science.

His droop picture does exaggerate the shift though.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:31 AM   #16
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1" from where you are is far enough. Too far back and the tire will hit the rear well stuffed without trimming or comp cutting the rear. 3-4" lift the axle is only moved in 1/2 or so. Any set of control arms will center the axle in the wheel well.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:53 PM   #17
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Okay people! Thanks for being patient with me! I'm finally home from Florida! I'll post a picture in a few minutes
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:21 PM   #18
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Okay. Here is the wheel In the well at ride height. What do y'all think I should do?
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07X View Post
Okay. Here is the wheel In the well at ride height. What do y'all think I should do?
Stuff it in the well full compression and see how it fits...

Are you planning on larger tires?

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Old 08-06-2014, 07:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
This axle shift is common on 3.5+ lifts that don't have rear control arms and many people don't mind it at all. The axle travels on an arc and lifting that much moves the axle forward some amount. I personally can see the desire to get it closer to stock position at ride height.

I do also believe that you could over correct and end up too far back at full stuff so some tinkering is probably needed. As is said regularly, every Jeep seems to be just a little different so it isn't an exact science.

His droop picture does exaggerate the shift though.
X2.

The ideal position is to have the coils sitting vertically and perfectly seated on their perches, as long as the driveline is in its operating range.

I ran a 3.5" lift with 35s and trimmed seam, no adjustable CAs and had no issues. I only added the CAs when I went to a 4.5" and 37s but by then I had replace the driveshafts.
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Okay. Here is the wheel In the well at ride height. What do y'all think I should do?
Entirely up to you. Mine looks the same. I have uppers and soon a set of lowers to center the in the wheel well.


factory CA lengths.

Front upper stock =18 3/4
front lower stock = 22 5/8"
Rear upper stock = 17 7/16
Rear lower stock = 19 3/4

Synergy for example will have you set their adjustable lowers to 20 1/4 (1/2 longer than stock).
Running lowers alone and longer will rotate the pinion down worsening pinion angle. If you are moving the axle back with lowers ... You need uppers to rotate the pinion back up. Between 181/4 and 183/4 is a good estimate running a aftermarket driveshaft.

Like said .. Moving the axle back to stock requires both sets of control arms.
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:16 AM   #22
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Entirely up to you. Mine looks the same. I have uppers and soon a set of lowers to center the in the wheel well. factory CA lengths. Front upper stock =18 3/4 front lower stock = 22 5/8" Rear upper stock = 17 7/16 Rear lower stock = 19 3/4 Synergy for example will have you set their adjustable lowers to 20 1/4 (1/2 longer than stock). Running lowers alone and longer will rotate the pinion down worsening pinion angle. If you are moving the axle back with lowers ... You need uppers to rotate the pinion back up. Between 181/4 and 183/4 is a good estimate running a aftermarket driveshaft. Like said .. Moving the axle back to stock requires both sets of control arms.
oh yeah. I was aware that I needed both sets of CAs and a new drive shaft. I was more concerned about having to weld new coil brackets, or something crazy like that. Hahaha

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