I'm looking to pick up a JKU in the next few months (hopefully), and it's looking like a Rubi will not be in the budget.
I'm thinking I'm going to be going used, and other than the occasional Willys, finding a Sport with 3.73/Trac lock does not seem to be easy.
So as part of my research, I'm wondering about how much it would cost, including install, to regear from 3.21. I'm thinking I'd probably go 4.10 or 4.56, depending on tire size (no bigger than 35 on the D30) This will be an auto, btw.
Also, as I hate a "4x4" with open diffs, I'd want to lock it up too. Or at least a rear locker, front ltd. slip. Selectable lockers would be preferable. (Arb, Eaton? not married to any particular brand as I have not researched them yet).
Anyone have a ballpark price on this?
And if you HAVE had it done to yours, what did you go with for diffs, and how do you like them?
I found a regear for $2,100 through the dealer. This is for what ever gear you decide on. It also covers to reflash the computer for the change in the gear and/or tire size, etc.
The dealer sends it out to another vender for the job and it carries a 3 year warranty through the dealer since it was taken to them for the switch out and not the outside vender. If you go through a regular vender the cost will be between $1,500 & $1,800 with 1 year warranty including the reflash. This is in the Houston Tx area.
Re-gear costs are all over the board depending on your geographic location. Some shops here in SoCal have $999 specials, with $1200-1400 being the average.
I went 4.56 on my 6-speed manual with 35's and 3.6 motor. Had I been automatic I would have gone 4.88 but the 1st gear in the manual is about 20% deeper that the auto. So I got the great crawl ratio without having to jump up the extra 300 RPMs on the highway.
I went with an ARB air locker in the rear. The front is open. I decided that because I am eventually going to put a PR44 in front (18-24 months) that I didn't want to waste the $$ on a front locker right now. I will say that with just the rear locker I have been VERY impressed. This Jeep walks up almost anything. In the RARE instance that not having a locker up front has me stuck, well then I will just ask for a tug from a buddy. No harm, no foul.
You CAN lock your D30 without worry, but just remember that it (as well as a stock Rubi front D44) are not built to withstand heavy abuse. If you plan on bouncing on rocks I'd say skip right to an aftermarket D44 and save the $ on locking a D30. Just my $.02
My last jeep, I regeared and had ARB lockers put in front and rear. All included, I was right at $3000. This was in 2015. The same guy is still offering the same price for the gearing.
I had 2400 in just parts. And got all of it on sale at Northridge. Eaton e lockers yukon gears. Master install kits. Did the full artec armor system while i had the axle out and new ball joints.
Sounds like you need a rubi lol. I'm just wondering if the cost to regear/install lockers, etc, will just put you up there with the price of a used rubi.
Sounds like you need a rubi lol. I'm just wondering if the cost to regear/install lockers, etc, will just put you up there with the price of a used rubi.
I'm thinking the same thing, haha. Which is why I'm asking in the first place, to figure out if it makes financial sense to just go Rubi.
Honestly I doubt I'll need the front locker, I don't think I'll be wheeling my 30k vehicle that hard, at least not for quite a while, haha. I doubt I'd want to risk the body damage that can go along with the places here that are gnarly enough to need a front locker.
I've decided if I go with a 2 door it will prob be a Rubi, however the 4 door Rubicons are just so spendy. I prob could regear and lock a Sport and still be significantly cheaper than the equivalent JKUR.
The problem locking a D30 is the ring gear and pinion will not take much to shear some teeth off. The Rubicon D44, although having the same tubes and outers, has a 44 diff and larger R&P. I wouldn't waste any money locking a D30 and spending $700-$1000 on a front locker. if you are actually going to play hard with it, find a take off D44 or leave The D30 open and save for something stronger in the aftermarket, just like WineCountry suggested.
I have what used to be a Willys (automatic)(should have bought a Sport).
ProCal
Master install kits
4.56 gears
Poison Spyder Diff covers
Lube Locker Gaskets
F&R True Tracs
lube
Labor
__________________________
$2600
Knock off $200 for the diff covers. If you get 3.21s, will need $80 front carrier or go with the truetrac
Scheduled my regear next month on the 24th. $900 otd. I was quoted another 900 for rear electronic locker to add to my switch pros. Was planning on getting a dynatrac up front while locking the rear but my big funds are going to non Jeep stuff.
This looks a lot like what I want to do(well have a shop do), did the 3.73 gears fit in the front okay I thought I read the front only fit 3.21's on a bone stock.
It all depends on the area. I've seen prices across the board. I pick my Jeep up today from a regear. The price of Revolution Gears (4.56s) plus labor is $999. Plus another $100 for a new carrier (had 3.21s). Add in Master Kits and tax and I'm right around $1450. But I had other work done also, gussets, Adams front and rear driveshafts, PS Diff Covers, Dynatrac Ball Joints, and an alignment.
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