I've got a 2014 Unlimited Sahara. Have installed 2.5 Rough Country suspension lift. Also have 315/70r17 BFG KO2. Tires rub a little on full turn. I want to add a body lift. I also would like it to be more level. My question is, could I put a 1" body lift in the back and a 1.25 or 1.5" body lift up front to level it? Don't know much about the body lift. Any input appreciated. Thanks.
Are you running the stock wheels with those tires? you may just need to add some spacers. Or are you rubbing the front plastic air dam thing? if thats the case you can just trim that.
The tires are on 17x9 Dick Cepek 'Terrain' wheels. I've had a body lift on other vehicles and didn't mind them. I'm just wondering if it would cause any problems to put a slightly bigger body lift on the front compared to the back.
well, I do know that with the leveling kits you usually get 2 one inch spacers for the front and one 1 inch for the rear. I think you could just get a pair of one inch spacers and add those to your current lift.
Though I am confused. I thought most lifts compensate for the rake in their packages.
and no, with those wheels you likely won't need any spacers.
I really know nothing about body lifts so will leave that answer to someone else.
I can't imagine that would work safely with different size body mount spacers in different locations; the contact patch wouldn't be flush from front to back and would probably have some squeaking as a result as well.
My suggestion would be to add a 3/4" spacer on top of the front coils like these;
I've got a 2014 Unlimited Sahara. Have installed 2.5 Rough Country suspension lift. Also have 315/70r17 BFG KO2. Tires rub a little on full turn. I want to add a body lift. I also would like it to be more level. My question is, could I put a 1" body lift in the back and a 1.25 or 1.5" body lift up front to level it? Don't know much about the body lift. Any input appreciated. Thanks.
I can't imagine that would work safely with different size body mount spacers in different locations; the contact patch wouldn't be flush from front to back and would probably have some squeaking as a result as well.
My suggestion would be to add a 3/4" spacer on top of the front coils like these;
What exactly is rubbing? Did you just do a spacer lift? If you did, you'd be better off with a leveling kit that give you new springs like Rancho or Evolution offroad. Or trim the fenders.
The comments about body lift being bad are completely misguided. These folks are simply parroting things they have read in the past (Suzuki Samurai days with 3"-6" body lifts). Of course, these people are entitled to their opinion, but they are not warranted IMHO.
A 1" to 1.5" body lift can be a great thing. It can allow you to fit large tires without going beyond 3" of suspension lift- which keeps you from having to get a new driveshaft (which becomes necessary when you go more than 3" of suspension lift). BL is beneficial because it gives you more tire clearance and a lower center of gravity, again without dealing with issues that start once you go higher than 3" suspension lift, all without significant cost as BL's are cheap.
You don't want an alternating body lift though (you were referencing a taller body lift on front as compared to the back). Just use front coil spacers at the required thickness.
What issues are you speaking of? I am speaking from experience (3 different JK's over the years with NO issues).
Talk to the folks in the TJ forum that have been wheeling hard core with body lifts for YEARS. Body lifts are fine as long as they don't go too tall. You don't know what you are talking about.
I've done body lifts too. It's awesome having your shifter drop down 2". Bumper gap looks stupid. Rock rails don't match right. Higher center of gravity of your rig, no extra suspension travel, yet keep your factory fender flares? But keep on recommending them.....
1. So you put on a body lift higher than 1.5"? Your mistake.
2. Bumper gap looks stupid (they make a cheap bumper relocation bracket to deal with that).
3. Rock rails don't match (not really that noticeable but this is personal opinion).
4. No Extra travel: How is that an "issue" with BL's? People don't install BL's for additional travel.
5. Higher Center of Gravity: Uh, you may want to re-think that comment.
6. Keep your factory flares: I like chocolate ice cream. What does this have to do with going with a BL or not?
Don't worry though, if you are against BL's fine, but your reasoning is flawed unless you are super obsessed with the rock rail aesthetics, but again we are talking about 1" or 1.25" here. Not a big deal IMO.
Don't mean to be rude and I appreciate your opinions. But my question is whether or not I can put more of a body lift in the front than the back. It was not whether or not to get a body lift.
well maybe the OP is on to something... If you put a higher body lift in front, you can take out the factory suspension rake. The doors might not shut, but the body would be level....
No, as far as different body lift spacers front vs back.
JKUs have 10 pucks, the 2-door has 8.
From the rear you will see the end of the sheet metal finish which is essentially a pinch weld above your bumper. I painted mine black to match the bumper.
Ok, back to the OP's issues of tire rub. Are you rubbing your lower control arms at full steering lock? I was with the same size tires and wheels. No amount of lift will fix this. I added a set of 1.5 inch wheel spacers (that a friend had used with stock wheels) and that fixed the issue. They pushed the wheels out enough to eliminate the slight rubbing without making the JK's stance insane.
The body needs to stay parallel to the frame, relatively speaking, so no mix n'match body lift. Bolts at angles break, them your tub comes off the frame, which I don't think I need to say it but I will, is very dangerous and destructive.
And just to chime in on the bl are bad discussion, some skids and other accessories need 1"bl. I wouldn't recommend any more than a1.5" but rough country is making a 1.25 kit that has a shifter adapter for those of us with a manual that fixes the dropped shifter rather well. I have said kit on my 2015 jk 2 door, shifts fine and stays in gear, knob very close to stock location.
Hello from the TJ world where small body lifts are common and encouraged in conjunction with other modifications. One of the biggest reasons we use them is to add high clearance belly and gas tank skids. Does the JK not benefit from the added room between the body and frame to raise the underside up some more?
Yea the tummy tuck thing is not really something i have seen with JKs. I dont have a good shot of a TJ to compare to, but i am thinking the transmission crossmember hangs lower on the TJ, as well as the transfer case perhaps. Also i think the ease of fitting large tires on the JKs makes body lifts uncommon in the first place.
There is nothing wrong with a 1-1.5 body lift. If installed correctly it will cause no issues with an automatic.
1. No you cannot put different size body lift spacers.
2. You already chose a spacer suspension lift. The angle of the Jeep is set. You will either have to live with it, or take it off and start over to get the Jeep level.
3. As for rubbing you are most likely rubbing the plastic air dam under the bumper. Trim it or remove it. A body lift will not eliminate this.
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