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Old 01-04-2014, 04:17 AM   #1
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Brake Job...

Hi!

Does anyone have a good link to a "how to " do a proper brake job. It would have to include swapping out the caliper.

Its my first attempt at breaks. Im reasonably good with wrenching.

Can anyone with experience give me tips and / or a link to a good video explaining the job to novices ...

Thanks...

ps. When i went to the stealer they wanted about $1400.00 for the rear brake job. This included two Calipers, two rotors and of course pads. When I got there quote i walked out. Plan B ... buy the parts from the stealer (still about 30% more for parts than the US) cost me out the door close to $600. I'm thinking about 2 hours to do the brakes ( even at 100$ per hour) I'm still saving a lot of dough.

I guess given the rising cost of parts and labour I am being forced to do my own wrenching. Crap if the dealer would have charged 800$-900$ I prob. would have gone with it but at close to $1400 they really gave me no choice.

Thanks again.
H.

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Old 01-04-2014, 06:39 AM   #2
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I don't have a link to send you, but I do recommend you do this brake job with a friend who has an idea what they are doing. Brakes are very simple but that doesn't mean you cant mess up and cause more harm than good. Make sure you have all the proper tools before starting. Including something to depress the piston inside the caliper, vise grips to put on the brake fluid hose when switching out the calipers and Rubber mallet if you cannot get the rotor off. You also want brake grease, cleaner and obviously your mechanic tools to actually perform the job. Good luck!

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Old 01-04-2014, 07:23 AM   #3
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I assume you are replacing your calipers because they are leaking? If they aren't you don't need to replace them. As far as rotors, as long as they are not warped, gouged, or thin you can have them turned at many auto parts stores for a lot less than new. Then just buy pads.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:34 AM   #4
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If you haven't bought from the stealership yet try quadratec. You can buy new OE calipers for less than $100 each then buy some rotors and pads at napa. Should save even more money. The brake job is fairly simple. I've rebuilt 2 calipers on my jeep so I've done this twice. A breaker bar will be your friend for this.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ad-replacement

Once you get the caliper Off its just 1 bolt that holds the line in. Make sure not to lose the brass crush washers(they should give you new ones tho)

Then to get the caliper mount off that's 2 easy bolts. 19mm I think but don't quote me.

After that just break the little lock washers that keep the rotors on. They aren't important and you dont actually need them so just trash them. The rim will later hold the rotor on. Then just button it up and bleed the brakes using the bleeder screw(bolt with a nipple) lay some newspaper down cuz you have to bleed it a lot because it has a lot of air in there.

Here is a video that may help too
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:47 AM   #5
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I assume you are replacing your calipers because they are leaking? If they aren't you don't need to replace them.
^^ This.

Why do you need to replace the calipers? Unless they are leaking, seized, etc. they typically would not be replaced as part of normal brake service.

If you do need to replace the calipers, it adds some additional work and complexity, as you now need to bleed the brake lines and likely add brake fluid. And, if you're going to all that trouble, depending on when the fluid was last flushed, it would be a good time to replace the brake fluid.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:49 AM   #6
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ps. When i went to the stealer they wanted about $1400.00 for the rear brake job. H.
I'd recommend getting a second opinion before buying or doing anything else. I don't know where you live but around here most muffler shops will provide you with a free inspection and estimate for a brake job. That way you can see if they also recommend replacing the rotors and calipers. If they do, ask them why and have them show you while it's up on the lift.

As others have already said, the calipers usually do not need to be replaced unless they are leaking or sticking (one pad worn a lot more than the other). Even then you can rebuild them with a little work. The easy way (but not necessarily cheap) is to replace the calipers if you're not confident in rebuilding them.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:52 AM   #7
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If you don't have to replace the calipers it's a much easier job. If they are not leaking at the seals or seized up I'd question if u need to do that. If you want to improve performance, check out black magic brakes by Mr Blaine. I upgraded all 4 corners of my TJ in October and am very impressed with the improvement in stopping power. I'd also highly recommend picking up a Service Guide, too much useful info not to have plus it details this job pretty well.

Don't forget to flush the fluid even if you don't replace the calipers. Pretty easy with a hand held vac pump. Suck as much as you can from the master cylinder, refill, then flush each caliper till you get clean fluid. Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level and top off often.

Also remember the caliper bolt grease packs and some disc brake quiet when you buy parts, and check that the pads you get come with new shims too.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:13 AM   #8
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^^ This.

Why do you need to replace the calipers? Unless they are leaking, seized, etc. they typically would not be replaced as part of normal brake service.

If you do need to replace the calipers, it adds some additional work and complexity, as you now need to bleed the brake lines and likely add brake fluid. And, if you're going to all that trouble, depending on when the fluid was last flushed, it would be a good time to replace the brake fluid.

Great point. A few years ago when my son was stationed at NAS Whidbey Island in WA I was visiting him and he needed front brakes on his car. We took it to a local Tire Chain, I'd love to mention the name but I'm not sure if that would break any rules. Anyway upon inspection they said he needed front brakes, which we already knew. They came back with a quote for brakes, calipers, and rotors. I took a look for myself, there were no leaks, or issues what so ever in either caliper. I had him mic the rotors, which were fine. He said they couldn't offer "their warranty" w/o doing the recommended work. I said then do the pads and offer no warranty. They said no. Long story short, my son told me they had a "Hobby Shack" on the base, where you can do your own work. AWESOME!! He should have told me that from the beginning. Anyway a visit to the Hobby Shack, and an hour later I had front brakes on his car, saving him over $600. Some of these places are total rip offs!

I can see changing rotors, most aren't worth cutting anymore, but calipers as part of a brake job, no way, unless there's something wrong with them.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:52 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by abaccari33 View Post
I don't have a link to send you, but I do recommend you do this brake job with a friend who has an idea what they are doing. Brakes are very simple but that doesn't mean you cant mess up and cause more harm than good. Make sure you have all the proper tools before starting. Including something to depress the piston inside the caliper, vise grips to put on the brake fluid hose when switching out the calipers and Rubber mallet if you cannot get the rotor off. You also want brake grease, cleaner and obviously your mechanic tools to actually perform the job. Good luck!
Awesome advise!

I do have all the tools
I have the products
the caliper is new but i have a large c clamp
and i have a light rubber mallet
A friend of mine who has done his own van brakes will help me.

I really feel confortable doing this and i have lots of time today.

If you guys don't mind hanging in while i ask just a few more questions ...

Do i need to put any type of anti brake squeel grease on the inside of the pads? I watched two vid's .. one used the grease (special for brakes) and one didn't .. I'm rooting for the one that didn't use the grease...

question 2: The caliper pins that slide with the rubber boot, do they need to be greased again with special break grease. If i did do that i would clean around the threads and clean out the little rubber boot for debris..

question 3: After i replace the caliper will i have to bleed the system. And if this does need to be done ... any tips , tricks or how to's ...

Thanks ... i will post after the labotomy takes place and is done .. if i come back before YUP ! Messed something up and need help ASAP

so much fun !

Howard
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:59 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jkjeeper06 View Post
If you haven't bought from the stealership yet try quadratec. You can buy new OE calipers for less than $100 each then buy some rotors and pads at napa. Should save even more money. The brake job is fairly simple. I've rebuilt 2 calipers on my jeep so I've done this twice. A breaker bar will be your friend for this.

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Once you get the caliper Off its just 1 bolt that holds the line in. Make sure not to lose the brass crush washers(they should give you new ones tho)

Then to get the caliper mount off that's 2 easy bolts. 19mm I think but don't quote me.

After that just break the little lock washers that keep the rotors on. They aren't important and you dont actually need them so just trash them. The rim will later hold the rotor on. Then just button it up and bleed the brakes using the bleeder screw(bolt with a nipple) lay some newspaper down cuz you have to bleed it a lot because it has a lot of air in there.

Here is a video that may help too
A million thank you's ...
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdude View Post
Awesome advise!

I do have all the tools
I have the products
the caliper is new but i have a large c clamp
and i have a light rubber mallet
A friend of mine who has done his own van brakes will help me.

I really feel confortable doing this and i have lots of time today.

If you guys don't mind hanging in while i ask just a few more questions ...

Do i need to put any type of anti brake squeel grease on the inside of the pads? I watched two vid's .. one used the grease (special for brakes) and one didn't .. I'm rooting for the one that didn't use the grease...

question 2: The caliper pins that slide with the rubber boot, do they need to be greased again with special break grease. If i did do that i would clean around the threads and clean out the little rubber boot for debris..

question 3: After i replace the caliper will i have to bleed the system. And if this does need to be done ... any tips , tricks or how to's ...

Thanks ... i will post after the labotomy takes place and is done .. if i come back before YUP ! Messed something up and need help ASAP

so much fun !

Howard
It isn't a difficult job, take your time and watch the videos. If you run into a problem ask questions

In answer to your questions:

I spray the back of the brake pads with Permatex Disk Brake Quiet to stop them from squealing. . I've never had a problem with brakes making noise when I sprayed them. I found the spray to work better than anything else I've tried. Opinions will vary unfortunately.

2. Yes clean and grease them, Sil Glyde works very well.

3. Yes. I install the caliper and pre-fill it with as much brake fluid as I can get into it. Read up on caliper installation and bleeding for methods of doing it, there's plenty of info out there. One thing make sure your partner is watching the fluid level on the master cylinder when you're bleeding the caliper, if you run it too low you'll be in for more work than you bargained for.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:23 PM   #12
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I asked if the shims were necessary..

I looked at my new org pads and they have shims built in..
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:55 PM   #13
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I asked if the shims were necessary..

I looked at my new org pads and they have shims built in..
I must have missed that. If the replacement brakes came with shims, or have them built in use them. If they don't just double check and be sure they gave you the right pads. If they don't have shims make sure you either spray them as I mentioned earlier or coat them with the anti-squeak compound.
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:33 PM   #14
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Demar (if you don't mind me calling you that ) I finished the job. I took your advice. First off the dealer I went to straight out lied to me. The lead mechanic told me straight to my face that the caliper had seized. And he recommended that I change both at the same time as I was changing the left side already.

Ok, so i take off the caliper , pull the break pads , change the rotor and pads and say to myself the caliper seems to be ok. I just felt it was still good after i opened her up with the c clamp (thank you for the tip). Put the new rotor on minus the 5 washers the hold the rotor and are not re useable and are a pita to take off. ( then found a short cut to get them off) put the caliper and pads in ... just in the jeep start her up and felt the brake fad to the floor ... few pumps later and alls good, acutally perfect. I go for a test ride and the wicked sound is gone and the jeep is stopping perfect for new pads being broken in ... again thanks ALL for the help... Project success , saved a few $, but more importantly a dealer with a super reputation , even on the radio for a car talk show and these guys were willing to take a shot at me. We all have to keep an eye out .. thx, Howard

ps next week front pads
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:59 PM   #15
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No problem calling me Demar, or Frank for that matter. I'm glad it worked out, the front pads should be even easier!

Once you get a taste of the money you can save DIY you can put those savings to mods, tools, whatever. Years back what I did was got an idea of what the job would cost having a shop do it. Then I took my cost divided the savings in half and invested that half in buying tools that I needed. I built up a pretty nice tool set in no time. Now that money goes to other things.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #16
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The lead mechanic told me straight to my face that the caliper had seized.
ps next week front pads
Very rare that a caliper seizes or leaks, in least in my history. I have calipers on my 1970 that are still fine, of course they have stainless steel sleeves. But the calipers on my 88 are still completely factory and fine. Those are street cars though and not subject to riding off-road.

But good job, dude! Now you are learning why it is so important to take care of your own rig. Saves money, no unnecessary work, and most importantly, a sense of pride.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #17
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Now you are learning why it is so important to take care of your own rig. Saves money, no unnecessary work, and most importantly, a sense of pride.
And knowing the job was done properly and that you're not getting hosed.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:13 PM   #18
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And knowing the job was done properly and that you're not getting hosed.
^^
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:31 PM   #19
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Here is a tip.. when doing brake jobs .raise hood and remove master cylinder cap before depressing caliber back in..... abs braking system can get costly if forcing pressure back through a sealed system..
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:53 PM   #20
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The dealers really piss me off for what they try to charge people. A coworker of mine who is a single mom took her SUV in to the dealer for some minor work and they said that she needed brakes all around. They wanted $700. She knows that I am a car guy so she asked me about it. I laughed at the price and told her I could do it for $80 and a 6 pack. I changed the brakes on all four wheels in 1.5 hours and saved her about $600.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:20 PM   #21
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Good to hear that the calipers were okay and you didn't have to replace them.

You might consider bleeding the fluid sometime anyway, especially if it is turning dark. As it absorbs moisture it turns dirty and becomes less effective. It;s a good idea to bleed the lines with fresh fluid every couple of years.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:12 AM   #22
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another big thank you for all that have replied

Enjoyed this so much i may just start another " help thread"

have an amazing Sunday
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:48 AM   #23
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good to hear that the calipers were okay and you didn't have to replace them.

You might consider bleeding the fluid sometime anyway, especially if it is turning dark. As it absorbs moisture it turns dirty and becomes less effective. It;s a good idea to bleed the lines with fresh fluid every couple of years.
+1

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