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Old 02-04-2014, 12:43 AM   #1
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Exclamation Component Speaker Installation Help

I have a 2011 Jeep Wrangler (w/ infinity system). I bought a set of Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" in the beginning of January and I have finally got time to install them. The set includes two woofers, 2 tweeters, and two crossovers. I am just confused on how I should go about installing everything. I know how to get the speakers in, but the wiring is confusing the heck out of me. Various sources have told me that the Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness will work, but they aren't the correct connectors for the speakers. My friend wants to rewire everything (not a big fan of the idea). While others are insisting I get a five channel amp to run everything (I don't have the money to get one ATM). Any advice on wiring? Will I need to rewire straight from the HU?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:38 PM   #2
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Got this reply on jkforum:
"Install the crossover near the woofer, run new wires up to the tweeters.
To wire the woofer either run new wires from the crossover or cut of the connector of original wiring to the woofer which goes to the crossover in and use that connector for crossover woofer out.
Really up to you how you want to do it."
Anyone have any input?

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Old 02-05-2014, 04:08 AM   #3
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Does your 2011 have an amp built in like my 2013 does?

If you are keeping the stock head unit, through stock amp, and only changing out your speakers, then no reason at all to re-wire everything. Either just clip the factory connectors in the pods and crimp on the speaker terminals, or go to crutchfield (or just call them) and find the little pigtail adapter numbers.

If you're already factory amp'd, you won't need the crossovers at all that came with your speakers unless you want to get fancy. In my signature link I have another link to when I changed out my speakers. Might help you some.

IF you decide to add aftermarket head unit later, then at that time knock yourself out with new wiring, amp, put in your x-overs, etc.

Factory power just doesnt push enough to need new wiring.

Don't forget a little polyfill and dynamat while you have the speaker pods out and opened up. If you do it right it will make some solid difference.

Edit: Those are nice speakers btw. I put in the Infinity Ref's and love 'em.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:34 AM   #4
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To make life easier, skip the crossovers for now, since the signal is already crossed over. If you want you can run the tweeter signal wire to the IN of the crossover and run new wires for the new tweeters, and leave the woofer alone (bypass the crossover and plug it in directly to the OEM harness. Adding the crossover to the factory wiring is a PITA not worth doing.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:43 AM   #5
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This is funny. I was planning to post something similar to this thread myself. I hope the OP doesn't mind but I'm going to piggy back his/her thread. I have a 2010 with infinity system which I purchased a year ago (as of next week) and it came with an aftermarket kenwood touch screen nav/tuner/cd/Sirius unit. I'm pretty sure the factory speakers are still installed (cause they suck) and I'm going to replace the components and roll bar units soon also. Are you guys saying that the crossover isn't needed because the signal is crossed over at the amp? And do the speakers have to be 2 ohm because the stock amp is 2 ohm? Thanks
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:37 AM   #6
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This is funny. I was planning to post something similar to this thread myself. I hope the OP doesn't mind but I'm going to piggy back his/her thread. I have a 2010 with infinity system which I purchased a year ago (as of next week) and it came with an aftermarket kenwood touch screen nav/tuner/cd/Sirius unit. I'm pretty sure the factory speakers are still installed (cause they suck) and I'm going to replace the components and roll bar units soon also. Are you guys saying that the crossover isn't needed because the signal is crossed over at the amp? And do the speakers have to be 2 ohm because the stock amp is 2 ohm? Thanks
Yes on the first question (speakers are crossed over at amp, and tweeters are crossed over by a small crossover soldered on the tweeter itself) yes on 2012+, don't know about the earlier models. If you have an aftermarket headunit already, do yourself a favor, spend a few bucks on an amp and do it properly. The ONLY reason to circle jerk around the factory system is because you want to keep your OEM 430 or 730.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #7
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Yup, what he said. I would actually be really surprised if your Kenwood HU is even running to the stock amp.

Buy a nice little 5 channel amp and just plug it in wth RCA's to your Kenwood.

Some new speaker wire and speakers and you're good to go.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Does your 2011 have an amp built in like my 2013 does?

If you are keeping the stock head unit, through stock amp, and only changing out your speakers, then no reason at all to re-wire everything. Either just clip the factory connectors in the pods and crimp on the speaker terminals, or go to crutchfield (or just call them) and find the little pigtail adapter numbers.

If you're already factory amp'd, you won't need the crossovers at all that came with your speakers unless you want to get fancy. In my signature link I have another link to when I changed out my speakers. Might help you some.

IF you decide to add aftermarket head unit later, then at that time knock yourself out with new wiring, amp, put in your x-overs, etc.

Factory power just doesnt push enough to need new wiring.

Don't forget a little polyfill and dynamat while you have the speaker pods out and opened up. If you do it right it will make some solid difference.

Edit: Those are nice speakers btw. I put in the Infinity Ref's and love 'em.
I would think that there would be an amp, would either of you know where it would be if there was one?

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To make life easier, skip the crossovers for now, since the signal is already crossed over. If you want you can run the tweeter signal wire to the IN of the crossover and run new wires for the new tweeters, and leave the woofer alone (bypass the crossover and plug it in directly to the OEM harness. Adding the crossover to the factory wiring is a PITA not worth doing.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:29 PM   #10
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I would think that there would be an amp, would either of you know where it would be if there was one?
You have the infinity/alpine system right? The amp is under the steering wheel inside the dash.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:39 PM   #11
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You have the infinity/alpine system right? The amp is under the steering wheel inside the dash.
I'm almost positive. I bought the vehicle used so not 100%. A clear characteristic of the infinity system is the sub in the back right?
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:10 PM   #12
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I'm almost positive. I bought the vehicle used so not 100%. A clear characteristic of the infinity system is the sub in the back right?
Yup.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:39 PM   #13
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Yup.
Alright then. I am planning on getting this on next thurday.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:16 AM   #14
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To make life easier, skip the crossovers for now, since the signal is already crossed over. If you want you can run the tweeter signal wire to the IN of the crossover and run new wires for the new tweeters, and leave the woofer alone (bypass the crossover and plug it in directly to the OEM harness. Adding the crossover to the factory wiring is a PITA not worth doing.
Just wanted to review. This should work if I am correct, right?


Or are the factory tweeter wires compatible with these connectors?
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:27 AM   #15
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An even better question what mounting bracket should I be using for the tweeters?
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:16 AM   #16
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Just wanted to review. This should work if I am correct, right?


Or are the factory tweeter wires compatible with these connectors?
You cannot use the mopar harnesses for the tweeter. What you want to do is cut off the factory harness (but leave 2" of wire behind the connector so that later on you can splice it back in if you wanted to go back to stock) and crimp on some generic female/male connectors, and crimp on the opposite on the tweeter wires themselves.
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:17 AM   #17
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An even better question what mounting bracket should I be using for the tweeters?
It will be obvious which mounts to use when you remove the OEM tweeter. One of those mounts should pressurefit nice and snuggly into the tombstone.
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:21 AM   #18
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You cannot use the mopar harnesses for the tweeter. What you want to do is cut off the factory harness (but leave 2" of wire behind the connector so that later on you can splice it back in if you wanted to go back to stock) and crimp on some generic female/male connectors, and crimp on the opposite on the tweeter wires themselves.
So Would something like these work? http://www.lowes.ca/wire-connectors/...ItemsName#aRvw
Trying to find something local to use before this weekend.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:18 AM   #19
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Those are alot of the same adapters that came with my Infinity Ref's. None of them really worked as advertised due to the shape of the tombstones.

The pic with your fingers in it...the one with the large threaded holder that has the big knurl nut on the back? I just did not use the big nut since it wouldn't fit inside the tombstone correctly. I used the big threaded part you're holding and wrapped the threads with electrical tape until I had a good friction fit and then just pushed them straight in from the front. Just try it and add a couple more loops at a time. You'll know when it feels nice and snug.

I know it sounds kind of cheesy way to do it, but I've never had one come loose o even rotate for that matter. Just an option.

The tweeters don't pound like a sub does, so you don't need to worry about them vibrating out really. It was temp for me until I decide to gut my system and start over, but has been working fine so I havent messed with it in a year.

Of course, yours may be a little different size. I know some folks had to trim material away on the tombstones, but I didn't.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:56 AM   #20
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So Would something like these work? IDEAL Blue 16-14 AWG Disconnect Pairs (16-Pack)
Trying to find something local to use before this weekend.
thats what I used.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:48 AM   #21
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So Would something like these work? IDEAL Blue 16-14 AWG Disconnect Pairs (16-Pack)
Trying to find something local to use before this weekend.
Yes but I don't like those....they are uncovered. An autoparts store will most likely have the ones you want. I much prefer these.

1/4" (12-10) Nylon Insulated Male Disconnect Crimp Terminal Yellow 50 Pcs.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The ones you have WILL work, so if you MUST use them, make sure you buy some shrink tubing and cover up the connections.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:33 AM   #22
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Yes but I don't like those....they are uncovered. An autoparts store will most likely have the ones you want. I much prefer these.

1/4" (12-10) Nylon Insulated Male Disconnect Crimp Terminal Yellow 50 Pcs.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The ones you have WILL work, so if you MUST use them, make sure you buy some shrink tubing and cover up the connections.
So would these work? Gardner-Bender C14-153P Male & Female Disconnect, 2-pair | Canadian Tire These are available very close to me.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:11 PM   #23
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So would these work? Gardner-Bender C14-153P Male & Female Disconnect, 2-pair | Canadian Tire These are available very close to me.
Yezzir.

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