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Old 11-17-2013, 01:39 PM   #1
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Dana 30 fluid capacity?

I know there are a ton of threads on this, but everything I looked at gave me a different answer so I figured I'd start over.

Got a new TF diff cover for my front dana 30. Most of what I read said capacity should be around 1.3-1.5 qts.

The fill hole on the new cover matches with the old so I filled up until fluid started coming out, but that only took right at 1 quart.

This may be fine but as this is my first time changing diff fluid, I'm a bit freaked out.

Am I ok here?

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Old 11-17-2013, 01:47 PM   #2
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Yep ur ok. As long as it dribbles out the fill hole.

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Old 11-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #3
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If you're not on an incline then you're fine and its full. Mine takes about that much
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:50 PM   #4
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Yeah, I'm level in the garage. My first time so pardon my freaking out. Just don't want to screw this up. The snapped bolt already has me shaking a bit. LOL

EDIT: What should I expect in the rear? I have the D44 with an aftermarket TruTrac installed.
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:53 PM   #5
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Check out the write up at Project JK.
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
Check out the write up at Project JK.

I did that before I even started this project. If it's the same one I found, I only handled front and rear 44s.

And other sites that cover this say 1.3-1.5 as I said, so that's no help.
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:57 PM   #7
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Just do the same as the frt. Let it dribble out the hole unless the hole is on top.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusthol View Post
Just do the same as the frt. Let it dribble out the hole unless the hole is on top.
That approach may not work for me on the rear, as I'm installing TF covers.

I got lucky on the front in that the fill holes a basically at the same height.

For the rear I think the fill hole is quite a bit higher than stock so I need to make sure I don't overfill.

Most sites I found said that it should take right at 2 quarts but I'm just worried about overfilling and blowing fluid out my breather tubes.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
That approach may not work for me on the rear, as I'm installing TF covers. I got lucky on the front in that the fill holes a basically at the same height. For the rear I think the fill hole is quite a bit higher than stock so I need to make sure I don't overfill. Most sites I found said that it should take right at 2 quarts but I'm just worried about overfilling and blowing fluid out my breather tubes.
I installed poison spyder covers and i had the same concern filling the diffs. The rear should take about 2 and 1/3 quarts. Two bottles and one decent squeeze of the third bottle. Its ok to be a touch over or under.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tab22092 View Post
I installed poison spyder covers and i had the same concern filling the diffs. The rear should take about 2 and 1/3 quarts. Two bottles and one decent squeeze of the third bottle. Its ok to be a touch over or under.
thanks for the info. I figured I could be a bit over/under but want to blow something up.

Was gonna tackle the rear next but that snapped bolt has me concerned. May wait until I can have someone around to drive me to the auto store if needed, as this is my only vehicle. If it ain't drivable, I'm stuck/hosed.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
thanks for the info. I figured I could be a bit over/under but want to blow something up. Was gonna tackle the rear next but that snapped bolt has me concerned. May wait until I can have someone around to drive me to the auto store if needed, as this is my only vehicle. If it ain't drivable, I'm stuck/hosed.
Just snug all the bolts up with lock washers, then using a star/across pattern torque to 25lbs. You dont need anymore than that. I personally use rtv too idk if you using the lublocker or not.

P.s. Make sure you wrap the fill plugs with about three wraps of teflon tape otherwise you will always smell gear oil! Drove me crazy.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tab22092 View Post
Just snug all the bolts up with lock washers, then using a star/across pattern torque to 25lbs. You dont need anymore than that. I personally use rtv too idk if you using the lublocker or not.
I'm trying LL and they say torque to 35.....was a close call.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tab22092 View Post
I installed poison spyder covers and i had the same concern filling the diffs. The rear should take about 2 and 1/3 quarts. Two bottles and one decent squeeze of the third bottle. Its ok to be a touch over or under.
^^^^^This--------2.3 quarts
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:31 PM   #14
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Well, now I can say I've changed a diff by myself. Think I'll take the rig into the local 4x4 shop and have them do the rear for me and the last thing I want is a snapped bolt.

If it snaps on them, then it'll be on them to fix it.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tab22092 View Post
Just snug all the bolts up with lock washers, then using a star/across pattern torque to 25lbs. You dont need anymore than that. I personally use rtv too idk if you using the lublocker or not. P.s. Make sure you wrap the fill plugs with about three wraps of teflon tape otherwise you will always smell gear oil! Drove me crazy.
Watch using rtv on diff covers. Fronts won't be as much an issue, but limited slip rear ends that use a friction modifier, don't like rtv silicones. The acids in the friction modifier deteriorate the gasket maker, and after a few months, you have a damp cover. Both permatex and loctite sell sealants specifically for gear oil applications. Just FYI.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:14 PM   #16
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Watch using rtv on diff covers. Fronts won't be as much an issue, but limited slip rear ends that use a friction modifier, don't like rtv silicones. The acids in the friction modifier deteriorate the gasket maker, and after a few months, you have a damp cover. Both permatex and loctite sell sealants specifically for gear oil applications. Just FYI.
Yea ive seen the advertised "gear oil rtv" but just used the rtv poison spyder supplied with the covers. Believe it was loctite. I have open diffs but the valvoline gear oil i use does say "limited slip" on it. Oh well if i ever have a problem ill just crawl under there again and do it over with the gear oil stuff lol.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gecko4 View Post
Watch using rtv on diff covers. Fronts won't be as much an issue, but limited slip rear ends that use a friction modifier, don't like rtv silicones. The acids in the friction modifier deteriorate the gasket maker, and after a few months, you have a damp cover. Both permatex and loctite sell sealants specifically for gear oil applications. Just FYI.
He said he has a Trutrac, no modifiers needed.
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrimbler View Post
He said he has a Trutrac, no modifiers needed.
Also using lubelocker gasket so RTV isn't an issue.

Didn't know I didn't need friction modifier. Everything I read said It was needed if running an LSD.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:06 AM   #19
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Also using lubelocker gasket so RTV isn't an issue.

Didn't know I didn't need friction modifier. Everything I read said It was needed if running an LSD.
Trutracs are helical gears not friction pads. No modifiers and use regular oil not synthetic
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrimbler View Post
Trutracs are helical gears not friction pads. No modifiers and use regular oil not synthetic
Makes sense. Odd that everything I read said modifiers were needed for LSD. never said that only applied to clutch based systems.

Oh well. I already have the fluid so I'll use what I have for this go round

Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:13 AM   #21
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Lubrication
The TrueTrac differential is designed to operate in those lubricants recommended by the vehicle/axle
manufacturer for conventional differentials.


Thats from the Eaton Truetrac owners manual. From what I've read, if you use synthetic etc, will get some 'chatter'
I have them installed front and rear for about a year and a half, changed the oil twice with regular diff oil, no problems.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:16 AM   #22
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Lubrication The TrueTrac differential is designed to operate in those lubricants recommended by the vehicle/axle manufacturer for conventional differentials. Thats from the Eaton Truetrac owners manual. From what I've read, if you use synthetic etc, will get some 'chatter' I have them installed front and rear for about a year and a half, changed the oil twice with regular diff oil, no problems.
Well shit.

I read a ton of info and this is the first I've heard of this issue using synthetic, which is what I bought. Hate to not use it as I cost me a good amount.

Any issue with my trying it out and replacing it if it causes issues?
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:19 AM   #23
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Well shit. I read a ton of info and this is the first I've heard of this issue using synthetic, which is what I bought. Hate to not use it as I cost me a good amount. Any issue with my trying it out and replacing it if it causes issues?
Your fine with synthetic.

Edit: i do use conventional personally.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:20 AM   #24
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Well shit.

I read a ton of info and this is the first I've heard of this issue using synthetic, which is what I bought. Hate to not use it as I cost me a good amount.

Any issue with my trying it out and replacing it if it causes issues?
I'd like to say go ahead, but I'm just some dude on the internet
I would contact eaton and ask them.
I think I remember reading that some guy did as you suggest and Eaton said to go ahead and just change the oil.....but don't quote me on that!
Can you just not return the oil?
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:26 AM   #25
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Truetrac

What kind of oil should I use? Can I use synthetic? Do I need friction additive/modifier?
A quality petroleum/mineral based oil works best in the Truetrac units. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Friction additive/modifier is not required.


Just copied this from their fax page
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:29 AM   #26
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Truetrac What kind of oil should I use? Can I use synthetic? Do I need friction additive/modifier? A quality petroleum/mineral based oil works best in the Truetrac units. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Friction additive/modifier is not required. Just copied this from their fax page
Ok. Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:41 PM   #27
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I replaced both my differential covers with TF covers and had the same concern you have on your front cover with my rear cover which took less fluid than expected (only 1.5qts instead of 2.3qts), although my front differential took what I was expecting (1.3qts).

TF told me not to worry as their covers take less fluid than OEM. The reason being they put a thicker cover in the OEM space by having tighter internal tolerances. Made sense, see:

Help, differential fluid question
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:41 PM   #28
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Lubrication
The TrueTrac differential is designed to operate in those lubricants recommended by the vehicle/axle
manufacturer for conventional differentials.


Thats from the Eaton Truetrac owners manual. From what I've read, if you use synthetic etc, will get some 'chatter'
I have them installed front and rear for about a year and a half, changed the oil twice with regular diff oil, no problems.
I'm fantasizing doing the same setup....
How do you like the trutracs front and rear? have you ever been in a situation where you wish you had a locker? Did you have a traclok rear axle before the trutrac? is the difference worth it?
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:16 PM   #29
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I was open diff before. Only have the trutrac in the rear now. Decided it would help me both on and off road. Not ready for lockers yet.

Haven't used it much. Was playing in the rain earlier today and it hooked up real nice.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:44 PM   #30
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I was open diff before. Only have the trutrac in the rear now. Decided it would help me both on and off road. Not ready for lockers yet.

Haven't used it much. Was playing in the rain earlier today and it hooked up real nice.
did you do the swap yourself? were you able to just swap carriers and not have to do the whole gear setup procedure. You gotta go do some off road testing and report back to us.....with pics

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