Dealers wants $560 to do inner front axle seals on 09 rubicon.... thoughts? - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 06-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #1
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Thumbs down Dealers wants $560 to do inner front axle seals on 09 rubicon.... thoughts?

I can't do it myself because i have no garage and no tools... is this a good/bad price?

passenger outer seal is leaking gear oil, which means passenger inner seal is leaking.

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Old 06-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #2
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Stealerships are always more expensive than regular mechanics.

Find a good shop in town that caters to trucks and see what they will charge.

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Old 06-26-2014, 09:25 AM   #3
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Considering its a dealer, I'd say about right. There is only inner seals on the front. Requires axles and complete carrier to be removed. They aren't a whole lotta fun when you get all that junk outta the way.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:00 PM   #4
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inner axle seals are a piece of cake. It takes time to get to them, but once in there its easy as pie. Probably no more than an hour worth of work to get the unit bearing's, axle shafts, and carrier out. 30 minutes to remove and re-install new seal. And then maybe another hour to button everything back up. The seals themselves are only 15 bucks or so from the dealer.

Take the money you would pay somebody and buy a tool set, a jack and some jack stands. Sears runs crazy deals on 200-300 piece mechanics tool sets all the time. Harbor freight for a jack and jack stands. Also need a few long extensions(pickup for cheap at harbor freight) to help drive the new seal in from the passenger side and a 36mm axle socket(you can rent from autozone type places) to help you drive the new seal in square.

Where are you located? There may be a member located nearby that would help you out.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:45 PM   #5
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I will rent the 36mm nut, watched a video online about how to do a dana30. good advice on the tools etc. i do have a compressor and air ratchet nearby. and i can visit my parent in the midwest in july where he has tools required and stands.

what is this "carrier" people refer to? is that the central mechanism in the diff that he pops out the front after he pulls the axles?

i am still concerned about the electronic locking apparatus... i dont want to screw it up by trying to attempt this myself. anything i should be looking out for?
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:07 PM   #6
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Yes the carrier in the case of the rubicon is the locker itself. You just undo the 4 cap bolts and the caps come out(keep them oriented correctly for re-installation) then the carrier/locker will come out with some persuasion.

The D44 and D30 are basically the same inside so if you saw how its done on a D30, you wont have any problems on the 44. The new seals basically crush into the housing very slightly when you are driving them in. I had a 36mm socket that had VERY thick walls and wouldnt allow the seal to crush so I had to get a thinner walled 36mm socket to do it.

There is a website out there somewhere with a pretty good how-to as well. I believe its a TJ specific tutorial, but the axles arent much different at all in this respect.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:07 PM   #7
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I need to do mine also. Let me know how it goes.
I hate thinking about pulling the gears.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:25 PM   #8
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I need to do mine also. Let me know how it goes.
I hate thinking about pulling the gears.
Nothing to it. Since you're not changing the gears or the carrier there's a lot less to be worried about. Just be 100% certain you keep the shims straight and put them back exactly the same way they came out and you're golden. Also, be sure you put the bearing caps back on exactly the way they came off. And if you have a selectable locker, you need to be careful about the wires/air line when you're taking it out and putting it back in. Finally, be sure to use a good quality torque wrench to make sure it's all back together just right.

And do yourself a favor when you're putting the outers back together. Use a bunch of anti-seize on the unit bearing where it sits against the knuckle, along with the 3 bolts that hold it in. When it comes time to replace the unit bearings or do other maintenance next time you will thank me.
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:31 PM   #9
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Ty .. I hate rust/seized bolts
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:09 PM   #10
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Ty .. I hate rust/seized bolts
Lots of liquid wrench. Front and back sides of the unit bearing bolts. Those will be the most rusted. Nothing else should be bad.

If the unit bearing is stuck on the knuckle, dont beat it off with a sledge hammer unless you want to just replace your unit bearings while you are there(I did just this on my TJ because they were pretty bad with unknown mileage, most likely factory 110k miles).

This site:
Jeep TJ - Jeep Wrangler TJ Web Site of Stu Olson

has the trick for getting stuck unit bearings off as well as a TON of other write ups. Most are TJ specific, but a lot carry over like the axle stuff since its not much different.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:12 PM   #11
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Ty .. I hate rust/seized bolts
I put gears in my Jeep within the first year I owned it. Since I did it myself with some help I was able to get the anti-seize slathered all over the bolts and unit bearing before the rust really set in. I will be glad when it comes time to do maintenance in the future.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:21 PM   #12
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We did ball joints, not remembering if we anti seized the bolts. My luck NO... Friends never have the stuff around
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:38 PM   #13
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Nothing to it. Since you're not changing the gears or the carrier there's a lot less to be worried about. Just be 100% certain you keep the shims straight and put them back exactly the same way they came out and you're golden. Also, be sure you put the bearing caps back on exactly the way they came off. And if you have a selectable locker, you need to be careful about the wires/air line when you're taking it out and putting it back in. Finally, be sure to use a good quality torque wrench to make sure it's all back together just right.

And do yourself a favor when you're putting the outers back together. Use a bunch of anti-seize on the unit bearing where it sits against the knuckle, along with the 3 bolts that hold it in. When it comes time to replace the unit bearings or do other maintenance next time you will thank me.
okay dont laugh.....

where are the shims in this photo? bearing caps are the cuffs with the bolts in them? they are stamped with a matching stamp for each side of the housing...?

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Old 06-26-2014, 04:43 PM   #14
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okay dont laugh..... where are the shims in this photo? bearing caps are the cuffs with the bolts in them? they are stamped with a matching stamp for each side of the housing...?
Remove the 4 cap bolts and you should be able to see them under there. They aren't stamped so just keep track of the order they come out and the orientation of the caps as well
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:08 PM   #15
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okay dont laugh.....

where are the shims in this photo? bearing caps are the cuffs with the bolts in them? they are stamped with a matching stamp for each side of the housing...?

Attachment 1242698
You can't see the shims in the photo. They're covered by the caps. But those "cuffs" are the caps.

The caps may or may not be stamped. When I work on a diff, I take them off and put them aside where they won't be disturbed. And I carefully set them so it's obvious which side they go on and which way is up. It's not a bad idea to stamp the bearing caps if you are going to take them off and you have a way to stamp them.

If you take the differential out, the tapered roller bearings will stay on either side because they are pressed on. The races will come off easily. The shims go between the race and the face of the differential housing. The bearing caps hold the shims and the races in position.

If you think of it like a sandwich, the shims would be the bread, the bearings would each be a slice of cheese and the differential would be the meat in the center.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:09 PM   #16
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If I were you I'd clean the diff out with brake clean, mark stuff with a sharpie, and take pics as you tear it apart for reference. Good luck.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #17
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If I were you I'd clean the diff out with brake clean, mark stuff with a sharpie, and take pics as you tear it apart for reference. Good luck.
x2
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:57 PM   #18
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You can't see the shims in the photo. They're covered by the caps. But those "cuffs" are the caps.

The caps may or may not be stamped. When I work on a diff, I take them off and put them aside where they won't be disturbed. And I carefully set them so it's obvious which side they go on and which way is up. It's not a bad idea to stamp the bearing caps if you are going to take them off and you have a way to stamp them.

If you take the differential out, the tapered roller bearings will stay on either side because they are pressed on. The races will come off easily. The shims go between the race and the face of the differential housing. The bearing caps hold the shims and the races in position.

If you think of it like a sandwich, the shims would be the bread, the bearings would each be a slice of cheese and the differential would be the meat in the center.

in the photo below, the race is falling off the tapered roller bearing, correct? he is pulling out the carrier slowly.

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now in the following photo he has just set the carrier on the ground, are the shims still sitting up inside or did they fall out with the races....

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thanks for everything.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:46 PM   #19
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in the photo below, the race is falling off the tapered roller bearing, correct? he is pulling out the carrier slowly.
Yes.

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Originally Posted by lbredefe View Post
now in the following photo he has just set the carrier on the ground, are the shims still sitting up inside or did they fall out with the races....
It's hard to say with 100% certainty. But it looks like the shims may have come out with the races. That's common. Just be prepared to catch them when they come out. Sometimes they drop to the bottom of the axle housing. Sometimes the surface tension of the oil will make them stick to either the axle housing or the race. It's better to have two sets of hands so that you can catch the shims and the races as you pull the carrier out.

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thanks for everything.
Any time.
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:56 AM   #20
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Thanks for the post and answers. Subscribed to this.

These guys what in
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:46 AM   #21
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my jeep guy told me 350 for sleeve and gussets installed.
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:59 PM   #22
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my jeep guy told me 350 for sleeve and gussets installed.
which pertains to this thread about axle seals how?
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:56 PM   #23
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my bad. thought it said sleeves. take away my bday.

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