Do You Really Need Grade 8, 9/16", Fine Thread, Partially Threaded Replacement Bolts? - Page 5 - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 06-22-2016, 11:31 PM   #121
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New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:17 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman5280 View Post
New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
As has been stated previously, you do not "need" aftermarket bolts at all as long as you pay very close attention to keeping your factory bolts properly torqued. However, the factory 14mm bolt is FULLY THREADED and if it loosens, there is a strong likelihood that the threads are going to gouge out the frame side bushing on the front track bar. The aftermarket 14mm bolt in the kit is only PARTIALLY THREADED and is less likely to do damage to the bushing. If you go to the Northridge web site they show a photo of the bolt kit. Note that all of the aftermarket bolts are only partially threaded. These are superior to fully threaded bolts IMO.

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Old 06-29-2016, 08:32 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman5280 View Post
New to JKs so pardon my lack of knowledge but if I have a 2016 JKU and the 9/16 track bar bolt is too big, am I correct in assuming the clearance issue has been corrected and the factory 14mm bolt now has appropriate clearance? What then would be he advantage of using an after market track bar bolt?
I just upgraded all my lower control arm and track bar bolts in my 2016 JKU Sport (built 4/16).

9/16 fit fine all around. Maybe the 2012+ 14mm bolt is a Rubicon thing.

I do have square holes in my front lower control arm brackets, frame side.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:11 AM   #124
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Anyone here install the Northridge kit with an AEV 2.5" lift? Want to be certain I am thinking right so looking for experience here.

Looks like I will still use all of the bolts in the Northridge kit as AEV instructions have you reuse all of the factory bolts.

I'm also doing front drop brackets and AEV supplies a new bolt for the frame connection but calls for reusing the factory bolt to attach the drop bracket to the frame so I presume I can use one of the Northridge bolts on both sides for that? I'll use the Northridge bolts for the LCA axle connection and also the front factory track bar.

Rear LCA's bolts will all be replaced with Northridge. Anyone know if the AEV rear track bar will take the Northridge bolts? Instructions call to reuse factory bolts.

Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:53 AM   #125
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You won't use the bolts on the drop brackets, they have smaller holes. I still used them on the CA to axel connection. You can use the on the rear track bar.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:37 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by SchnorrCS View Post
You won't use the bolts on the drop brackets, they have smaller holes. I still used them on the CA to axel connection. You can use the on the rear track bar.
Thank you!
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:20 PM   #127
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Just got my Northridge grade 8 kit. So let me make sure I got this right in a nutshell. 8 9/16 bolts, 2 washers each & locknuts for all 4 LCAs. 4 smaller 9/16 bolts, 2 washers & nuts for front & rear TB, & 2 14mm bolts, washers & nuts for front & rear frame side TB bolts if the 9/16ths dont fit???
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:08 AM   #128
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Why no upper control arm bolt kits?
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Old 09-12-2016, 02:49 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepR kReapR View Post
Just got my Northridge grade 8 kit. So let me make sure I got this right in a nutshell. 8 9/16 bolts, 2 washers each & locknuts for all 4 LCAs. 4 smaller 9/16 bolts, 2 washers & nuts for front & rear TB, & 2 14mm bolts, washers & nuts for front & rear frame side TB bolts if the 9/16ths dont fit???
I just installed it a few weeks ago, and you are exactly right. So you should have two bolts left over, one way or another.

And I wish I had understood that before standing there wondering what I did wrong for an hour. I just didn't all make sense to me until I actually got there.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:37 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overthinker View Post
I just installed it a few weeks ago, and you are exactly right. So you should have two bolts left over, one way or another.

And I wish I had understood that before standing there wondering what I did wrong for an hour. I just didn't all make sense to me until I actually got there.
Ha! Thanks for confirming OT!

I've only had the chance to do the front TB so far...9/16ths fit so looks like I'll be doing 9/16ths all around. 2015 JKR built 4/08/15
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:35 PM   #131
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I also just ordered a Grade 8 bolt kit from Northridge, plan on changing them when my final set of control arms arrive.
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:21 PM   #132
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And so...............for all of you that have gone before.........a couple questions before I change out with new hardware.
* Is there a definitive answer on using the lock nuts provided with the kit vs. Nylocks?
* Is there a reason not to just use red thread locker and be done?

I want to do everything possible to do this once. Understand I should re-check/re-torque as a maintenance issue, but I weigh 155 lbs. soaking wet. Last time I torqued the suspension bolts to 125 ft/pnds, it amounted to me doing chin ups or pulling myself across the garage floor on my back. Neighbors got a good laugh, chiropractor loved it. Me, not so much.
I do some moderate trails on occasion (Imogene/Tower Arch/Bill Moore Lake), more often neglected fire trails/wash boarded abandoned secondary gravel roads. In my case, anything I can do during initial install to extend the maintenance cycle closer to once a year?
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:35 AM   #133
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If it was me, I would NOT use nylon lock nuts, nor would I use thread locker. I would use the tempered steel lock nuts provided in the kit and a good torque wrench. I understand that re-torqueing is difficult esp. for someone your size, but maybe you can get a big friend to help you for an hour or two with the promise of a pizza dinner and beer afterward. Follow the directions in the kit for best results. They provide directions for a good reason. YMMV.
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:17 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthefence View Post
If it was me, I would NOT use nylon lock nuts, nor would I use thread locker. I would use the tempered steel lock nuts provided in the kit and a good torque wrench. I understand that re-torqueing is difficult esp. for someone your size, but maybe you can get a big friend to help you for an hour or two with the promise of a pizza dinner and beer afterward. Follow the directions in the kit for best results. They provide directions for a good reason. YMMV.
There is a whole discussion about this in various forums. With that in mind, I am in the opposite opinion, I prefer Nylock or Nylon lock nuts for suspension components with two caveats, 1. Do not use in area subjected to heat more than 200-250 degree F and 2. Do not reuse too often, I would use it no more than 2-3 times and buy new nuts.

The Stover or Distorted thread nuts damage the threads as it is torqued and while it is good and has slightly better vibrational resistance, this requires that the bolt and nut be replaced after a couple of uses. This is good if you will torque once and basically forget it. People messing with their suspension and changing control arms and adjusting should be checking that the bolt threads aren't too worn. Also known to cause galling and removal is very difficult if threads damaged and corrosion has set in.
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:30 PM   #135
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Dealer over torqued bolts....any worries?

All,

Had the rig in to the dealer looking for a cure for some noise in the rear end. Told them not to touch the suspension bolts because they were all torqued to spec. So....what did they do? Wrenched down on many of the bolts.

When I did the AEV 2.5" I did the Northridge bolt upgrade.

Any chance of permanent damage by over torquing the bolts....bushings, etc.?

Going to get under there this weekend and loosen everything and retorque but wondering if I should be looking for any damage while doing so.

Thanks!

Todd
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Old 11-20-2016, 07:59 AM   #136
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Originally Posted by tnard View Post
All,

Had the rig in to the dealer looking for a cure for some noise in the rear end. Told them not to touch the suspension bolts because they were all torqued to spec. So....what did they do? Wrenched down on many of the bolts.

When I did the AEV 2.5" I did the Northridge bolt upgrade.

Any chance of permanent damage by over torquing the bolts....bushings, etc.?

Going to get under there this weekend and loosen everything and retorque but wondering if I should be looking for any damage while doing so.

Thanks!

Todd
Over torquing may have stretched the threads. That said how do you know the dealer over torqued things?
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:02 AM   #137
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Good write up by the OP. Maybe something for those us who tow the Jeep behind a Motor home. Do see a lot of threads on the RV forums about death wobble.
Still need to watch torque settings no matter what.
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Old 11-20-2016, 09:49 AM   #138
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Over torquing may have stretched the threads. That said how do you know the dealer over torqued things?
Had paint pen marks on everything...
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:13 PM   #139
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Anyone know if the 9/16 will fit with Rock Krawler lifts now? If not, I've got my stock bolts or I guess I can buy shouldered 14mms.
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:20 PM   #140
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So. Have the northride kit. Was all gunho an the first bolt I removed was the drivers side LCA. Err, Tried too remove. Couple things that I need guidance with. Standard and metric both seem to fit the same. Am I right in thinking metric is correct? Also, the two stock washers are.. strange. Are they to be reused (doesn't seem possible) and does the rig need to be off the ground? I couldn't even pound out the bolt. Got discouraged and put it back together. (The stock washers appear to be structurally significant and sorta rest/lock into the bracket)
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:05 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin View Post
So. Have the northride kit. Was all gunho an the first bolt I removed was the drivers side LCA. Err, Tried too remove. Couple things that I need guidance with. Standard and metric both seem to fit the same. Am I right in thinking metric is correct? Also, the two stock washers are.. strange. Are they to be reused (doesn't seem possible) and does the rig need to be off the ground? I couldn't even pound out the bolt. Got discouraged and put it back together. (The stock washers appear to be structurally significant and sorta rest/lock into the bracket)
You have Cam Bolts to correct Caster. In your case, you need those, or you can buy Front Lower Control Arms and Cam Bolt Eliminator washers from Synergy or equivalent. Make sure you mark out orientations for ease of putting things back together.
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Old 12-05-2016, 06:11 PM   #142
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^ thanks! Good to know. I assume then what I have is not factory and was installed with the lift?
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:02 PM   #143
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Anyone know if the 9/16 will fit with Rock Krawler lifts now?

To answer myself, yes they do. Got my arms in today so tried an extra bolt and it fit.

I read some threads saying you had to use stock bolts with their kits but they from a few years ago and it seems that has changed.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:50 PM   #144
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With stock bolts, there's no room for error; as soon as some bolt loosens slightly, the threads will gouge the adjoining parts. Also because the bolts are smaller than the holes they're in, the bolts further deform the holes where there is any shoulder. Even torqued properly, there's still undersized bolt looseness and movement within linkages that wear down parts and result in less accurate road handling.
Today I got my 2015 JK 2DR Rubicon bolts changed out using the Synergy complete hardware kit #8050-02 ordered from Quadratec for $165. Cost for shop labor was $170 for the entire job at Elias 4X4, Townsend MA.
The jeep has 4200 miles on it. There's noticeable improvement in road handling because there's no slop anymore from undersized bolts. With the stock bolts, no matter if torqued correctly, there's still play in the bolt fitment whenever parts are flexed, with less accurate road handling.
I also notice more road surface variations and small waves in asphalt road surface transferred into the jeep. I like this as it helps indicate road conditions better.
The suspension parts are all fitting snugly with the Synergy bolts, so the reason for the improvements. An excellent product and "mod"!
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:21 AM   #145
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I have the Northridge kit and installing TF lift. So, with this (or other) bolt upgrades, you use a washer and locking hex nut, despite that several of the stock nuts are flag nuts and all are flange nuts?
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:37 AM   #146
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I have the Northridge kit and installing TF lift. So, with this (or other) bolt upgrades, you use a washer and locking hex nut, despite that several of the stock nuts are flag nuts and all are flange nuts?
Yes, use only the kit hardware; the kits have better hardware than stock. Example: Synergy kit uses stover nuts, which don't loosen easily the way stock nuts do. St parts stay torqued completely.

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