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Old 05-22-2014, 06:17 PM   #1
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Drives haft leaking?

The wife pointed out that the Jeep was making an odd noise every once in a while, so I crawled under to check everything out. I'm not sure this is what caused the noise, but I did find this:







These were taken from the driver's side, looking back towards the passenger's side. That last one is looking up at the bottom of the Jeep. It and the second one show how much grease is being thrown out while it spins.

Any thoughts on what the problem is and what it will take to fix it?

Thanks.

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Old 05-22-2014, 06:20 PM   #2
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Front or back .. Do not drive like that. If it's the front you can remove it easily and drive around.

How much lift ?
Caster numbers ?

A few options for replacement
- crown (I believe) makes rebuild kits for the factory CV
- find a stock take off
- buy new stock $$$$$
- aftermarket double carden.

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Old 05-22-2014, 06:24 PM   #3
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Info on caster
Jeep Jk, Caster and lifting.

Fwiw .. I was running around 3" of lift w/ lower CA's.
My caster was set to 6* and my front DS failed. Not as bad but grease was pushed out the boot.
I've since taking down my caster to 3.5-4* w/ no issues running a Adams DS.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:10 PM   #4
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It's the front. Bought the Jeep with the lift on it, so not 100% sure what it is... 3"-3.5" I think.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:11 PM   #5
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Would this be caused by the lift not being setup correctly? Or could it have happened on the trail?
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:13 PM   #6
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Oh, and the Jeep has been driving fine with not steering or handling issues.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:28 PM   #7
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And this is the wife's daily driver and she is going to need it tomorrow. What do I have to do to make it okay for her to drive?
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:28 PM   #8
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Read the caster thread i linked. I described how to gauge caster angle.
Longer shock travel/droop can also kill the shafts. You may have to limit travel if that's the case.

Do you have adjustable control arms, correction brackets, cam bolts w/ stock arms ?
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:30 PM   #9
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Reading it now and will try and get numbers for you. No adjustable control arms, don't know about brackets or cam bolts... this stuff is all new to me.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oberst Hajj View Post
And this is the wife's daily driver and she is going to need it tomorrow. What do I have to do to make it okay for her to drive?
There's 4 15mm bolts to the front diff. Remove them. Then there's 8 smaller hex bolts (6/8 mm?) that attach it to the transfercase.
A dead blow whack should break it free once all the bolts are removed. Your good to go .. DO NOT shift into 4wd.

I drove for months without a front shaft ... No issues at all.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Reading it now and will try and get numbers for you. No adjustable control arms, don't know about brackets or cam bolts... this stuff is all new to me.
Great I will subscribe to the thread and await your findings. Although, without CA's, caster shouldn't be the cause.

Do you disconnect the swaybar links ?
Height, disconnecting, shock travel = too much for the factory CV to handle.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:03 PM   #12
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Okay, I measured the angle by placing a socket in the recessed opening here:



I got a reading of 3°.

I took a reading along the flat side of these:



And got a reading of 89°

Trying to use your other thread to make sense of those numbers now.

Also, I'm pretty sure the LCA are aftermarket...



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Old 05-22-2014, 08:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Great I will subscribe to the thread and await your findings. Although, without CA's, caster shouldn't be the cause.

Do you disconnect the swaybar links ?
Height, disconnecting, shock travel = too much for the factory CV to handle.
I do normally disconnect the sway bar (got to love the push button on the Rubi), but this last time out wheeling I actually forgot.

Several months back I did replace the drag link, track bar and ball joints to fix death wobble. Got it aligned afterwards. I don't recall anything looking way off on those numbers... and of course I can't find that sheet now.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:27 PM   #14
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Those are aftermarket. 89* is 1* = 5* caster.

How much height you got up front ?
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:21 PM   #15
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How do I check that?


And thanks for all the help on this!
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:42 PM   #16
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Ok, got all the bolts out, but I can't get it to separate TC. Any suggestions? Can't get enough on the dead blow to get it to come lose.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:46 PM   #17
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It is lightly pressed in. Try working the driveshaft back and forth to work it loose.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:58 PM   #18
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Lightly. Lol. Not mine!
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:14 PM   #19
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Finally! Had to pull the skid off and take the 4lbs hammer to shaft a little further up.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:10 AM   #20
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Here's the rebuild kit
http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...pid=52302+0013

This is a rebuild but still looking for the thread replacing it.
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61254
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:04 AM   #21
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Another note, once I got the DS off, I noticed that the rubber boot had a big tear in it. Could it be that that is all it is? What are some of the things that would cause one of those boots to tear?
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:17 AM   #22
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The boots just get worn from weather, ozone etc. Just replace the joint and take a quick look at them at every oil change.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:19 AM   #23
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Stress and wear .. It can happen with a lift.

There's a good write up on how to replace the joint. Once I locate it I'll post.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Info on caster
Jeep Jk, Caster and lifting.

Fwiw .. I was running around 3" of lift w/ lower CA's.
My caster was set to 6* and my front DS failed. Not as bad but grease was pushed out the boot.
I've since taking down my caster to 3.5-4* w/ no issues running a Adams DS.
Any idea how long your lowers arms are set to? Im installing an adams next week in need to bring down my caster. Its at 6 now lol
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:03 AM   #25
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I'm not running them no more. Rancho brackets and caster is around 4*

Start at around 23 1/8, measure and turn in until you get pinion around 2*
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:17 AM   #26
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Quote:
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I'm not running them no more. Rancho brackets and caster is around 4*

Start at around 23 1/8, measure and turn in until you get pinion around 2*
Yeah theyre at like 23 1/4 now so maybe a couple turns would do it. thanks
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:44 PM   #27
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So a local Jeep'er is going to give me his basically new stock DS to throw on until I figure out which aftermarket one I want and get it ordered in. I've got the torque numbers for putting the bolts back in... but when I pulled them out, I noticed that bolts at the diff end have a blue lock tight type of stuff on them. The small ones (which were 8mm for prosperity's sake) had a kind of hard substance about half way down (kind of a tan-ish color). Do I need to clean that stuff off and reapply something to the bolts? I’ve not seen this mentioned in any of the how to threads.
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:48 PM   #28
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The blue is loc-tite and a re-enterable is recommended. The 8mm ones have a sealing compound on them. I believe it is to keep them from rusting in the threads.

I clean and replace.

Bob K.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:14 PM   #29
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Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:44 PM   #30
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Another follow up question please. With my pinion being at 1° and my caster at 5° and seeing as I've got not vibrations while driving... do or should I be looking at lowering that caster number?

Or would I only see vibrations after installing an aftermarket DS?

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