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Mopar 60's

32K views 279 replies 36 participants last post by  macaw1us 
#1 · (Edited)
#24 ·
RockJocks are not stronger axles. One of the biggest differences would be the tubes, the Ultimate Dana 60's have 3.5x0.39" tubes compared to the 3.0x0.375" tubes on a RockJock 60.

I like those Mopar Dana 60s. No problems with my Dynatrac 60s, but if I were doing it over again today I think I'd go with the Mopar 60s instead. They're $3000 cheaper, and equal or better strength. And, you can get them in two weeks. I waited 4 months for Dynatrac to build and ship my axles.
Mopar doesn't actually manufacture any axles, they just sell Dana or Dynatrac axles that they might throw a Jeep diff cover on. To which Mopar axle are you referring? Unless you buy something like the J8 rear Dana 60 that's configured for leaf springs, only shows up in a 4.10 ratio, and has a limited slip it's not any cheaper. I'm currently waiting on my own Dynatrac rear semi-float ProRock 60, spent about $4750 on it. I will agree that the wait time sucks, I've been waiting six weeks and Dynatrac expects to ship it out two weeks from now.

Bob, you see TF's full float 30/44 "kits" ? I don't see many buying these for the price. Interesting concept though.
Solid Axle also sells some full-float Dana 44's, I didn't know that Teraflex did though.

Not understanding the mad luv for 60's, are 44's grenading constantly? you all racing, climbing mountains?? there's just very little 'cost to benefit' for most that I can see..
It just seems like another one of those 'big dick' contests like you see at almost every Marina (my boat is better/bigger than your boat), where most of the 'investments' just sit at the dock collecting barnacles..

Just sayin...
Depends driver temperament and how big your tires are. Here's some examples of failed stock assemblies for you, they're not that hard to find. I run LT285/75R17 Toyo M/T's and the stock GKN locker recently failed, I heard a weird noise coming from the rear-end. When I removed the drain plug a metal shard was attached to the plug and a lot of metal shavings came out. I then pulled the diff cover off and the gears were fine. I made sure to rotate the pinion and all of the gears were OK. A few parts on the locker that weren't supposed to rotate are also rotating now. There's my own personal story of a stock rear axle failing, I can't wait for my rear ProRock 60 to show up.

You're boring, just saying...

yeah and i agree... pricey. when my rear 44 goes, i'll look for a CRD-60 probably. it scares me cause big changes will come with it with 3 or 4 linking the rear....
You know you want it. You already have 40's so do it, do it now.
 
#4 ·
I seen that to KJeeper, really good price for what's included. Just not sure of the 69" width.
Might give Dynatrac a little comp. Might even get them to drop their pricing a little.
 
#5 ·
I seen that to KJeeper, really good price for what's included. Just not sure of the 69" width. Might give Dynatrac a little comp. Might even get them to drop their pricing a little.
That's What I was thinking. The general thought was to finance in with a new JK and sell the stock 44's.

Agree with the other poster, way overkill unless running 40's and maybe a Hemi :)
 
#6 ·
Oh I didn't see that the axle shafts came with. They were saying though Eaton E locker included ,
Or is it jeeps E locker ?
 
#8 ·
Wow just WOW. Front and rear est. 10k-11k

Factory e-lockers
OE morning locations
100% bolt on.
10" ring /pinion gear
SPL 70 u-joints
35 spline shafts
Lock out hubs
Full float rear
5x6.5 bolt pattern
Choice 4.88 or 5.38 gearing
MASIVE !!!!!!!

The Ultimate Dana 60™. Proven Performance for the Jeep® Wrangler® JK.

Wicked :jawdrop:
Not understanding the mad luv for 60's, are 44's grenading constantly? you all racing, climbing mountains?? there's just very little 'cost to benefit' for most that I can see..
It just seems like another one of those 'big dick' contests like you see at almost every Marina (my boat is better/bigger than your boat), where most of the 'investments' just sit at the dock collecting barnacles..

Just sayin...
 
#9 ·
I think the thought is: we know the factory 44's housing are weak and have issues.. so if your going to upgrade why not spend a bit more and get a much better axle that for most would not limit on tire size and can run very deep gears and is a tank...

I ran prorock 60's and loved them.. nothing like knowing(or at least having a darn good feeling) that you can hammer the crap out of the jeep if you needed to and you don't have to worry about busting a shaft or things bending on you. That being said, I currently run upgraded HP30 and a rear 8.25 on 35's and have not had an issue...
 
#12 ·
It makes sense once you start breaking stuff. Every once in a while is not really a bad thing. But going out and breaking stuff regularly? Then the cost of going bigger and stronger can sometimes save you some money in the long run.

I went though that phase with a few buddies when we all had Full size Broncos. We were swapping 3/4 and 1 ton running gear into those rigs many moons ago. I would truss the 8.8s in friend's rigs. The diffs on those would actually flex and spit the ring gear with enough torque.

Bob K.
 
#17 ·
I like those Mopar Dana 60s. No problems with my Dynatrac 60s, but if I were doing it over again today I think I'd go with the Mopar 60s instead. They're $3000 cheaper, and equal or better strength. And, you can get them in two weeks. I waited 4 months for Dynatrac to build and ship my axles.
 
#28 ·
understandable. I've had good luck with my axles. when I put the 40s on I took a trip to north georgia. the pinion crapped out on me. preload was too tight... in spec but the tight end of spec, been rebuilt haven't had any other problems.

thankfully.

I know the time will come though. I don't beat on it, but I don't baby it either. it's built for a reason. I love the rocks... absolutely love them.
 
#40 ·
Yep, if you are going to build the heavier Unlimited, and then add extra weight (Steel Bumpers, Winch and large heavy spare tire) along with your final addition of 40's.
Plus heavy rock crawling, bouncing and shock loading the hell out of it, then just go with the Dana 60's from day one!!!!!
Yes, it gets expensive. But if you have a money tree, then why not......:D

If you are going to play, then you have to pay.....:thumb:

^^^That is the wise old saying from somebody on this Forum!
Hmmm, his name maybe Ken......:happyyes:
 
#42 ·
Those are pretty sexy...
I'm starting to look at the numbers, by the time I put RCV 300s, Baur Brakes, Covers, and labor along with the Trusses and all the little extras, these axles look much more affordable.

If these were installed, what area would become the next "Weakest Link"?

What kind of pricing have you found and where?
Has anyone found then at a bargain price yet?

(I need to go price some 40"s now)

BTW...love the picture with the 44,60,80 rings.
 
#45 ·
Those are pretty sexy... I'm starting to look at the numbers, by the time I put RCV 300s, Baur Brakes, Covers, and labor along with the Trusses and all the little extras, these axles look much more affordable. If these were installed, what area would become the next "Weakest Link"? What kind of pricing have you found and where? Has anyone found then at a bargain price yet? (I need to go price some 40"s now) BTW...love the picture with the 44,60,80 rings.
11k IS about the lowest. SELL the stock axles. 3-4k for Rubicon's based on condition.
 
#44 ·
Thanks for posting. I would go with ProRocks but those are 10-12k per axle and I thinm, although great quality, is insane. I was thinking of going with a ProRock 44 but that's $5000.

So I could buy a Dana 60 for about the same price. Only thing I'd want is an ARB in the axles because I don't have a rubicon and don't want to wire em'.
 
#46 ·
Thanks for posting. I would go with ProRocks but those are 10-12k per axle and I thinm, although great quality, is insane. I was thinking of going with a ProRock 44 but that's $5000. So I could buy a Dana 60 for about the same price. Only thing I'd want is an ARB in the axles because I don't have a rubicon and don't want to wire em'.
Wiring a switch is pretty easy.
 
#48 ·
Go build a prorock 60 front with ball joints, ARB, and RCVs and it'll be 10-11k without tax/shipping. These are much more affordable. I Could do the OEM locker if they have a way to help us Sport guys out in getting it installed correctly.

Prorock 44 with ball joints, ARB, RCVs will be around $5k without shipping and tax

Rear full float 60 will be 10k
 
#49 · (Edited)
What's more affordable, the Ultimate Dana 60 or something else? Adding RCV shafts to any assembly will add around two grand, just as adding ProSteer ball joints will add a chunk of change. How do you know they're more affordable? I mean, the $4700 I'm paying for my rear semi-float ProRock 60 is comparable to what Solid Axle sells theirs for although more expensive than say a Teraflex CRD 60.


If you were to add the $1185 for Dana 44 RCV shafts, $1149 for an ARB, money for ball joints in addition to $2900 for a stock Dana 44 assembly you come up to over $5000, so I'm not sure how you would be saving any money.


Purchasing a full float 60 from Dynatrac adds $2900 to the base price of about 4300, for a total of $7200.

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