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Old 02-04-2014, 02:10 PM   #1
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fuse melts before being inserted

it appears i blew a fuse for my power door locks, and it looks like the windshield washer fluid pump is on the circuit too...i can live without the doors, but i kind of like seeing where i am driving

the fuse was blown...when i put a new one in, the one side arcs and melts, but the fuse doesn't blow...

it doesn't do this when i put the burnt one back in...help me understand what to do...

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Old 02-04-2014, 02:12 PM   #2
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i should add...the battery was still hooked up...but i wouldn't think that would matter

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Old 02-04-2014, 03:01 PM   #3
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...um...the fuseable link should blow if you are dead shorted...

...sounds like you have a stuck switch to a relatively high load...
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:07 PM   #4
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you mean like one of the units is still 'on'...

a coworker said maybe the fuse socket isn't connecting right...
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:08 PM   #5
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you mean like one of the units is still 'on'...

a coworker said maybe the fuse socket isn't connecting right...
...yup...first place i would look is one of the lock motors is still being fed power...
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:22 PM   #6
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I would unplug both of your doors and then replace the fuse. If it still blows the problem is a still a short but at least you have ruled out the doors. If the fuse doesn't blow plug one door then the other in and see which blows the fuse. This is the brute force method of finding the fault but unless you are handy with a multimeter it is the simplest way to isolate what is causing the fault.
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:31 PM   #7
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I would unplug both of your doors and then replace the fuse. If it still blows the problem is a still a short but at least you have ruled out the doors. If the fuse doesn't blow plug one door then the other in and see which blows the fuse. This is the brute force method of finding the fault but unless you are handy with a multimeter it is the simplest way to isolate what is causing the fault.
...trouble is his fuse isnt blowing as i understand...its arcing on replacement...
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:36 PM   #8
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You either have something switched on or a dead short (or both).
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:37 PM   #9
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...trouble is his fuse isnt blowing as i understand...its arcing on replacement...
yes to the above...it blew...now when i try to replace it...it arcs...but...when i put the burnt one back in it doesn't arc...

i'll unplug the four doors and try that...

it was also suggested to unplug the battery for a few minutes to 'restart' everything
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:48 PM   #10
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Not sure what you mean by blowing and arcing, but think as the fuse powering 5 devices (doors and possibly wiper motor). Disconnect all 5 and see if the replaced fuse blows. It could be a switch, rubbed wire and necessarily inside a door panel. If the fuse doesn't blow, reconnect each device until it does. Then look into that device or wiring to it. You can try this with a slightly smaller smaller fuse, it might be easier on the system.

A fuse that is blown cannot blow again. Hence a short past the fuse won't draw current through a blown fuse.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:21 PM   #11
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the fuse was blown...when i put a new one in, the one side arcs and melts, but the fuse doesn't blow...
...if the new fuse is only arcing at the blade and not blowing the fusible link...to me that says its a heavy load draw...dead short would...hell the trouble shoot is the same...disconnect doors...
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:22 PM   #12
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Run some number 10 wire across the fuse and wait 30 seconds then look for the smoke. Just kidding, you could have a relay shorted out some where that operates the whipers or door locks. Check the relays and make sure that none of them are damaged or have been watered loged. If you got mud and water in there that could be shorting out the fuse.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:22 PM   #13
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Not sure what you mean by blowing and arcing, but think as the fuse powering 5 devices (doors and possibly wiper motor). Disconnect all 5 and see if the replaced fuse blows. It could be a switch, rubbed wire and necessarily inside a door panel. If the fuse doesn't blow, reconnect each device until it does. Then look into that device or wiring to it. You can try this with a slightly smaller smaller fuse, it might be easier on the system.

A fuse that is blown cannot blow again. Hence a short past the fuse won't draw current through a blown fuse.
...well put...op...do this!

...let us know...its personal to all of us now...
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:50 PM   #14
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hahaha,,,ok...so here's what i've done...

i unplugged the front two doors...i did not see a way to unplug the rear doors (and actually forgot about the tail door)...it still arcs...

i did see that the washer pump has its own fuse...J21...i replaced that...it popped when i tried to use it...

i don't have a garage, and being winter, it gets dark right after work...i made an appt with the dealer...

replacing these fuses is getting expensive, and they can troubleshoot it faster i would think...where would i even find the relays? and since there are two separate fuses, what are they odds the issues are tied together like i orginally thought?
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:16 PM   #15
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Please report back I'd love to know what they find.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #16
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Normally (or in the old days before the IPM/TIPM) a tech would put his voltmeter on one side of the fuse leg and read 12v. He'd then measure the resistance on the other leg to ground. It should read infinite (but it won't), as the power goes the power window switches and to the door locks. He'll disconnect everything until it finds the short to ground. Then he might have to tear apart the TIPM (fusebox and trace wires). Hopefully you didn't stick a higher amperage fuse in there and "fuse" the wiring (that's lame play on words).

Dodge moved from simple wiring to an IPM, them to a TIPM around 2006 in certain models (earlier or later in others). The TIPM is sort of an resettable electric fusebox that allows a simple looking switch (like the stalk for turn signals and wipers). That's tied into the instrument cluster and TIPM, so something simple can get complicated. (this is when the wipers quit working and it's an $800 job). The cluster (dash) has a microprocessor in it that tells the system to close the vents a few minutes after you turn off the motor. It also tells the system to go to sleep.

Nice history lesson, -yours hopefully is a wire that got pinched - he should have a schematic that shows what's downstream on the circuit.

You can buy those fuse packs in something like asst. 50 packs. If it's a 20 amp circuit, for windows, doors, engineers have to assumes that you are operating all at once, so you could test it with a 5 or 10 amp and lessen the strain on the wires.

Good luck, let us know what they find.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:21 PM   #17
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I keep a few of these in my toolbox just for electrical troubleshooting purposes. Makes it easier to isolate the problem area for further diagnosis without wasting a bunch of fuses. When I've fixed the issue, I just replace the C/B with the rated fuse...

ATO / ATC Blade-Style Circuit Breakers - Auto Reset

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Old 02-05-2014, 02:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
I keep a few of these in my toolbox just for electrical troubleshooting purposes. Makes it easier to isolate the problem area for further diagnosis without wasting a bunch of fuses. When I've fixed the issue, I just replace the C/B with the rated fuse...

ATO / ATC Blade-Style Circuit Breakers - Auto Reset

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John. Thanks for that. I never even heard of those but will pick some up.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
I keep a few of these in my toolbox just for electrical troubleshooting purposes. Makes it easier to isolate the problem area for further diagnosis without wasting a bunch of fuses. When I've fixed the issue, I just replace the C/B with the rated fuse... ATO / ATC Blade-Style Circuit Breakers - Auto Reset John
Those work great but be aware they get HOT!!! Learned the hard way!
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:50 PM   #20
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Those work great but be aware they get HOT!!! Learned the hard way!
Thanks for the tip...lol..I'll keep my thumb and forefinger skin then.
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:19 PM   #21
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so...it turns out that the TIPM $hit the bed...expensive little piece of plastic...but i need the windsheild washer pump working
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:06 PM   #22
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Wow that sucks. Sorry to hear it, man!
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:25 PM   #23
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so...it turns out that the TIPM $hit the bed...expensive little piece of plastic...but i need the windsheild washer pump working

Sorry about the cost, but glad you have a solution

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