Gas Pedal Assembly Modification - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 12-07-2013, 05:43 PM   #1
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Gas Pedal Assembly Modification

I was very unhappy with the gas pedal because of the stickiness. It wasn't hard to push though, more jerky, like it would move in increments rather than a smooth motion.

I removed one of both springs, but it was slightly too soft.

The reason for the stickiness I identified a break shoe inside the assembly, a little piece of plastic.

I integrated a new shaft of stainless steel and two 15/28 ball-bearings into the lever axis and left the break show out.

Now it's perfect, the pedal is sensitive and the resistance isn't too soft.
Some pictures illustrate my modification.

Stock components:

New stainless steel shaft

Integrated ball-bearings

New assembly

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JK '12 3.6 AT
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:06 PM   #2
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that sounds like a great MOD that returns greater "skinny-pedal" control to the driver. I am interrested in duplicating your idea. COuld you reveal the exact deminsion and measurements of the metal sleeve/shaft and also the size of the bearing[s] so that I can order or purchase the same?
Also, could you describe it a bit more than just ," it is more sensitive" ; is it drastically touchy or hair trigger-ish? I can feel the stock "jerkiness" you describe but wonder about this only because it is dealing with the analogue input of the pedal and it's smoothness of depressing but , at the end of the day it is still a circuit -basically a metal arc connector - that is "driving - by-wire" so it wouldn't make performance of the actual throttle any different. Is it just the smoothness of the accelerator pedal that this imparts on the drive-ability?
I wonder if your re-enforcement will aid in longevity of the actual pedal?
more details would be appreciated.


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Old 12-07-2013, 06:58 PM   #3
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So far it has been assumed that the lack of smoothness of the gas pedal caused due to the programmed specifications of the ride-by-wire system. Sometimes you get the feeling that it is stuck.

Because the assembly is very simple and very cheap constructed, and no feedback mechanism is built from the motor control, I was very skeptical that this behavior is influenced by the motor controller.

After I had disassembled the gas pedal assembly completely several times and done different modifications, it crystallized that there is a mechanical cause.

Both springs are slightly oblique to the upper recording. So that additionally a pressure in horizontal direction to the upper spring receiver is provided (the black plastic part). This black plastic part is horizontally displaceable relative to the gas lever and then press on the left white plastic part.
When accelerating, if the springs are more curious, also increases the pressure in the horizontal direction and to the white plastic piece, and it acts as a brake wedge. This is the behavior you can feel in the gas foot.

Sometimes the belief in the electronics is too large.

The difference is overwhelming. It seems to have a new motor, a real pentastar, and all horses are precisely control.
A change should make only one who knows the consequences and who has enough experience. Detailed information I can gladly make if desired.
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JK '12 3.6 AT
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #4
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Visis, yes, please post the detailed information such as bearing specs and source, and dimensions and source of the stainless tube.

Was any machining necessary, or are these readily available parts that are direct replacements to the stock plastic bushings?

Also, what happens to the pedal feel is one was to simply remove the white plastic brake shoe? Would that alone have any positive affect?

I'm very interested....
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:10 PM   #5

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Old 12-07-2013, 08:56 PM   #6
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Visis, are you saying the perceived slow throttle response is actually due to the gas pedal assembly and not the engine response?
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:43 PM   #7
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Very nice first post!
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Old 12-08-2013, 12:37 AM   #8
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:25 AM   #9
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The bearings I used are two SKF 15x28x7, part number 61902-2RS1
For the tube I took a stainless steel tube with 15 mm outer and 13 mm inner diameter, shortened to a length of 21 mm

In addition, the following tools are required:
- 28 mm Forstner bit to prepare the bearing intake
- 13 mm tenon bit to prepare the axis
- lathe to prepare the fit of the tube
- drill rig and a cross table to perform accurate bored holes

and you need experience in working with this tools.
You see, there is a lot of time and precision work required.

But you're right, the most important is to remove the plastic brake shoe.
With this sole change you get the whole new feeling in gas pedal,
it seems crazy but it's true.

My experience of driving without the brake shoe for over six month showed the throttle response is predominantly due to the gas pedal assembly.

I am very interested about your experiences with this modification and hope you can share my assessment.

Tenon bit I used:
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JK '12 3.6 AT
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:01 AM   #10
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Many thanks to crypple who set me on the right track in your forum

Pushing that gas pedal
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:58 AM   #11
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Does anyone know what the intended purpose of that plastic brake shoe is?
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:34 PM   #12
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When your bouncing over rocks or ruff roads a stiff pedal is not a bad thing, although a smooth pedal would be nice.
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:51 PM   #13
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I don't have any complaints about mine. It moves smoothly and not in increments. Not too stiff, or too light. I had a '95 galant that basically only moved in 25% increments. that was bad.
2012 Deep Cherry Red JKU Sport S - Tickastar, 6 speed, 3.73, Dual Tops
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:14 PM   #14
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My jeep doesnt have your original problem at all. I wonder if my pedal is worn out.....heh.
Everytime i have ever posted, its always bull that comes out of me
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:09 AM   #15
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I wonder is this is the flat spot I feel on my 09 Manual JK after shifting into second? There has always been a noticeable second gear flat spot. Hmm??

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