Hey, what are those serious looking off-road wheels with bolts around the rim??? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:44 PM   #1
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Hey, what are those serious looking off-road wheels with bolts around the rim???

The title says it, what are they called?

Thanks!

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Old 04-08-2014, 01:49 PM   #2
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probably 90% of the time, they are called fake. The term you're looking for are bead locks, a lot of cheap rims are made to look like they have bead locks when they do not.

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Old 04-08-2014, 01:50 PM   #3
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how is anyone suppose to know what your definition of serious looking off road wheels are
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:51 PM   #4
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probably 90% of the time, they are called fake. The term you're looking for are bead locks, a lot of cheap rims are made to look like they have bead locks when they do not.
LOL! Thanks!

When they aren't fakes, the bolts are there to keep the tires from slipping on the wheels when the tires pressure is reduced, right???
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:53 PM   #5
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Bead locks ?
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:53 PM   #6
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:53 PM   #7
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I think your thinking of Fuel Hostage Rims maybe? Or beadlock?
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:54 PM   #8
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Beadlock wheels.

One of the most popular ones is the ATX Slabs. I'll probably be getting these when I upgrade. If its good enough for Evo1 than its good enough for me.
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:56 PM   #9
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LOL! Thanks!

When they aren't fakes, the bolts are there to keep the tires from slipping on the wheels when the tires pressure is reduced, right???
Yes, they do require more maintenance than regular wheels. However, you probably won't be ripping any tires off the wheels with true beadlocks.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mhicanders View Post
probably 90% of the time, they are called fake. The term you're looking for are bead locks, a lot of cheap rims are made to look like they have bead locks when they do not.
Correct. The real bead lock wheels used these bolts that also go through the tire bead, (you see them in drag racing cars with the big slick in the rear). It keep the low pressure tire from spinning inside the rim. These are for show only, simply look cool.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:04 PM   #11
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We used to use a similar method on trail bikes. It was easier on the bikes, you drill a lot of holes in the rim and screw in some appropriately sized sheet metal screws through the rim and into the tire bead.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:06 PM   #12
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Correct. The real bead lock wheels used these bolts that also go through the tire bead, (you see them in drag racing cars with the big slick in the rear). It keep the low pressure tire from spinning inside the rim. These are for show only, simply look cool.
So you're saying the bead lockers for 4x4 off-roaders are not needed to prevent wheel slip in low pressure tires?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:18 PM   #13
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I think your thinking of Fuel Hostage Rims maybe? Or beadlock?
Yeah, something like that. Although the ones I saw had far more bolt heads than that. I'm sure that many is not needed, it was just the first ones I saw.

I saw a pretty impressive demo of how much difference lower pressure in a tire can make, especially on rocks. This guy had reduced the pressure to 5 psi! My first thought was the wheel might spin on the wheel or simply break the seal.

It seems the other route is a sealer/glue on the rim - how do you get the tire off the rim if it's glued on???
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:22 PM   #14
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Yeah, something like that. Although the ones I saw had far more bolt heads than that. I'm sure that many is not needed, it was just the first ones I saw.

I saw a pretty impressive demo of how much difference lower pressure in a tire can make, especially on rocks. This guy had reduced the pressure to 5 psi! My first thought was the wheel might spin on the wheel or simply break the seal.

It seems the other route is a sealer/glue on the rim - how do you get the tire off the rim if it's glued on???
Then your probably thinking of beadlocks
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:25 PM   #15
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Trail Ready Beadlocks...and the bolts do NOT go through the bead of the tire...
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:28 PM   #16
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Trail Ready Beadlocks...and the bolts do NOT go through the bead of the tire...
I wouldn't be surprised if they did on drag vehicles, put 5K horsepower to the ground through tires with 4PSI and they'll need some serious clamping.... For off-road all I've ever seen is what amounts to a clamp, no holes in the bead.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:31 PM   #17
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Trail Ready Beadlocks...and the bolts do NOT go through the bead of the tire...
Thanks! If they don't go through, or into the bead, how do they keep the tire from slipping?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:33 PM   #18
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Thanks! If they don't go through, or into the bead, how do they keep the tire from slipping?
It's a clamp, there's an inner bead that the tire bead sits outside of, the ring bolts to the inner bead and the tire bead is clamped between the parts.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:34 PM   #19
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It's a clamp, there's an inner bead that the tire bead sits outside of, the ring bolts to the inner bead and the tire bead is clamped between the parts.
Ahhh, got it! Sounds expensive.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:53 PM   #20
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I mentioned it above but are these the ones?

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Old 04-08-2014, 02:53 PM   #21
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Ahhh, got it! Sounds expensive.
New $400/ wheel, I found a new set on CL $800!
And I've aired down to 2-3psi...
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:30 PM   #22
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In 40 years of four wheeling I've never lost a bead. I've had several flats, but not from popping a bead. And I do air down routinely, and have on board air on my Jeep to air up again.

I've used several sets of beadlocks, and they can be a pain at times.

The cheap ones can have air leaks that require you to air up your tires regularly. The good ones don't have that problem.

They can be dangerous; a friend of mine had a beadlock blow off while he was working on them, and it broke several bones in his hands and cause RSD, which is a life long neurologic pain problem, from the hand injury.

A number of the beadlock wheels are not DOT legal. Many tire stores refuse to work on them. Tire stores are also pretty good at screwing them up. I had a tire store use an air wrench on the beadlock bolts of one of my wheels, which stripped the bolts, and I needed to replace the wheel.

The best way to work on a beadlock wheel is to let the air out of the tire, remove the beadlock ring, and then take the wheel to the tire store to have them break the bead on the inside of the wheel. Then take the wheels back home, put your new tires on them and re-install the beadlock ring yourself, so the tire store doesn't screw them up. Then take the tires and wheels back to the tire store to have them balanced. That means two trips to the tire store each time you change tires or need a flat repair.

Yeah, beadlocks can be a pain in the ass. There is benefit if you consistently air down to less than 10 psi when offroading. If you are running 10 psi or more, you dont need beadlocks.
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:39 PM   #23
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Ahhh, got it! Sounds expensive.
And take a while to mount up/install. I just threw 38.5's on my JK, took about 45 or so minutes per tire. A tire shop won't touch them in general.

37" Krawler on the left.
38.5" Falken MT competition on the right.
I wish I took a pic of the Raceline beadlock mounted on the new Falken's.




As you can see, I use that beadlock.

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Old 04-08-2014, 03:49 PM   #24
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A number of the beadlock wheels are not DOT legal.
X2 on this. alot of people dont realize this. granted the common person would likely never know a real from fake beadlock, but true beadlocks are illegal in many states. i have several times and still do, run a "poor mans beadlock." basically a 12.50" wide tire on a 8" wide rim. it makes it much harder for the bead to come off and results in minimal bowing of the tread that can be corrected by adjusting tire pressure. if you wanted a beadlock setup to run on a vehicle that sees DD time, you can also check out Staun internal beadlocks
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:50 PM   #25
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Tried running bead locks wheels for awhile.
Took them off and replaced with regular aluminum wheels.

Things I disliked about the bead lock wheels.

Difficult to mount, takes about a hour per tire if you do it right the first time. Forget to install a valve stem and your hosed. Start over.
Each of the 30 to 40 bolts per wheel needs to be torqued evenly in a star pattern 4 times to reach the final value.
That's 800 times you need to use a small torque wrench to mount a complete set of 5 tires.

Difficult to balance. Traditional lead balance works for awhile but doesn't seem to last for more than few weeks. Most tire shops won't balance bead locks either.

Dynamic balancing beads are a pain to get into the tire and never balance 100%.

If you take off too fast or take a corner above 30 mph the whole Jeep starts to shake.

Last but not least they are very heavy and expensive wheels. About twice the weight and cost of a normal aluminum rim.

Upside is you can air down to zero lbs and they are tough as nails.

Rock crawlers and trailered trail rigs seems to get the best use out of them.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:02 PM   #26
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Just about to start this process.... UGH!!!

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Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
Tried running bead locks wheels for awhile.
Took them off and replaced with regular aluminum wheels.

Things I disliked about the bead lock wheels.

Difficult to mount, takes about a hour per tire if you do it right the first time. Forget to install a valve stem and your hosed. Start over.
Each of the 30 to 40 bolts per wheel needs to be torqued evenly in a star pattern 4 times to reach the final value.
That's 800 times you need to use a small torque wrench to mount a complete set of 5 tires.

Difficult to balance. Traditional lead balance works for awhile but doesn't seem to last for more than few weeks. Most tire shops won't balance bead locks either.

Dynamic balancing beads are a pain to get into the tire and never balance 100%.

If you take off too fast or take a corner above 30 mph the whole Jeep starts to shake.

Last but not least they are very heavy and expensive wheels. About twice the weight and cost of a normal aluminum rim.

Upside is you can air down to zero lbs and they are tough as nails.

Rock crawlers and trailered trail rigs seems to get the best use out of them.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:08 PM   #27
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I seen some wheels that were meant for serious off road racing. And they were two part wheels. I'm trying to find em. Get back to ya. I think they were called Spider Rims or something like that.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:13 PM   #28
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They can be dangerous; a friend of mine had a beadlock blow off while he was working on them, and it broke several bones in his hands and cause RSD, which is a life long neurologic pain problem, from the hand injury. A number of the beadlock wheels are not DOT legal. Many tire stores refuse to work on them.
A lot of the issues you describe are avoided with COMMON SENSE! Who works on a Beadlock at pressure...that's just asking for a Darwin Award! Attention to detail is the name of every game! How do forget valve stem? I agree stores won't help you...my local Discount Tire wouldn't even sell me the warranty. I mounted mine myself, about a an hour for 1st tire and less for each after that. I found a small tire shop that would balance them for me, just wouldn't give me a receipt. I try and refer as much business to them as a token of appreciation. The owner of the shop came in one day and asked if those were Beadlocks...the guy said, NO...you know how those poser Jeep owners are"! LOL.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:13 PM   #29
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Spyder Locks are beadlocks.

Spyderlock beadlock home


Unless you are thinking of something else.

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I seen some wheels that were meant for serious off road racing. And they were two part wheels. I'm trying to find em. Get back to ya. I think they were called Spider Rims or something like that.
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:38 PM   #30
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A lot of the issues you describe are avoided with COMMON SENSE! Who works on a Beadlock at pressure...that's just asking for a Darwin Award! Attention to detail is the name of every game! How do forget valve stem? I agree stores won't help you...my local Discount Tire wouldn't even sell me the warranty. I mounted mine myself, about a an hour for 1st tire and less for each after that. I found a small tire shop that would balance them for me, just wouldn't give me a receipt. I try and refer as much business to them as a token of appreciation. The owner of the shop came in one day and asked if those were Beadlocks...the guy said, NO...you know how those poser Jeep owners are"! LOL.
Hey Sinister, got a question for you. Do you completely air down your tires every time you re-torque the beadlock bolts? I'm not talking about mounting or dismounting a beadlock with pressure in the tire, just re-torqueing the bolts. My friend that was, according to you, competing for the Darwin Award has been in the industry since the 1970s. He has been an editor of one of the national 4 wheel drive magazines, and has built more Jeeps than anyone I know. I think his current JK is JK build # 16 for him. The wheels that caused the problem were a set of prototype beadlocks that were sent to him to try out. There was something wrong with them, although this was several years ago, so I don't recall for sure what it was. I think the bolts were a little too long, so they bottomed out before they reached adequate torque. If it wasn't that, there was a problem with the angle of the seat for the beadlock that caused a side load on the bolts. He had been running the wheels for several weeks and had noticed slow leaks, so had re-torqued the bolts. Then he had to re-torque them again. The bolts would not hold their torque, so on the third or so time re-torqueing the bolts one of the bolts let go, and all of the other bolts on the wheel followed suit in immediate succession, with an explosive failure of the beadlock.

I've owned a lot of beadlock wheels, and I typically don't completely air down the tire to just re-torque beadlock bolts. I probably should, but a lot of the beadlock wheels I've owned have been on race ATVs and UTVs that only run 4 psi in the tires.

I wasn't making a point that beadlock wheels are dangerous because a set of prototype beadlocks that had a problem with them caused an injury. I do think beadlocks are more dangerous than regular wheels though. Part of the reason is because we are the people that end up mounting and dismounting beadlocks, because the tire stores wont do them. Its obviously going to be more dangerous to us if we're doing it, instead of someone else doing it. Also, most people that has been around for a while, and have attended the bigger events like Easter Jeep Safari for half their life knows someone that knows someone that has had a beadlock wheel fail, sometimes while on the highway. I know someone that had that happen a few years ago.

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