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Old 06-02-2015, 09:19 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronHorsePilot View Post
Sorry to hijack the thread but x1BUELLIST, where did you get these switches? This is exactly what Im looking for.e
Look up OTRATTW Tons of switches
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:22 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTHIS View Post
Honestly, I don't really have a budget in mind. For the sake of troubleshooting in the future, I'd go with different colors for different circuits.

This is one of those DIY's that I just "need" to do. Especially that I'm starting over with my 2015.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be ordering up some stuff today I guess.

Lastly, I went with lower independent OTRATTW switches, so only the words would be illuminated (green/red) when off, that would be my only difference.
Thought you might be interested in my wiring diagram for using the lower independent OTRATTW switches.


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Old 06-02-2015, 09:55 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooz View Post
If you're ordering stuff now, make sure to get the correct relays. I had the part number wrong in my original post. Since I can't edit that post, make sure to read my update (linked below) to get the correct part number: Hooz's DIY sPOD-ish Project
I caught that thanks.
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:58 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x1buellist View Post
Thought you might be interested in my wiring diagram for using the lower independent OTRATTW switches.
Very nice. I tucked that away for later.

One thing I've been looking into for the terminal strips is an enclosure. I found some stud type boxes, and some marine "covered" strips but not much else.

Not sure I want to just leave the strip out where it can get wet.
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Old 06-02-2015, 10:32 AM   #65
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Subbed. Very interested to see the finished product!

I haven't removed any dash components yet and am wondering if there is another how-to showing how those switches are installed?

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:19 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by teknik812 View Post
Subbed. Very interested to see the finished product!

I haven't removed any dash components yet and am wondering if there is another how-to showing how those switches are installed?

Thanks
I can show you this pic of the hole I cut. I basically measured the inner bezel and than used a pencil to draw the square on the dash, keeping in mind the bezel lip width so it ended up just above the speaker area.Than cut the hole Very carefully with a utility knife making several passes deeper and deeper into the plastic. I even switched the blade half way through to keep as sharp of a blade as possible. The plastic is actually pretty soft. I cut the hole a little smaller than I thought it should be than trimmed it a little at a time until the bezel was a tight fit. The hardest part for me was running the wiring harness to it. I have a manual transmission so I couldn't use the plug where the clutch pedal normally goes. I had to use a hole in the firewall right behind the battery. It is behind the firewall insulation. than ran it along the dashboard to the switches. I used a piece of tubing I slit to go around the firewall hole since it is a sharp edge that could eventually wear through the insulation of the wires. Hope that helps.



I used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v


and a wire tap for the dimmer circuit


You can find more pics etc.. of my install here:
http://norcal-jeeps.com/forum/viewto...t=781&start=10
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:36 PM   #67
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I have a 2015 and have been reading up on PWM switching. I was wondering if anyone who has built their own switch panels has witnessed the relay fluttering? Also I remember seeing something about the hazards of field collapse on a relay but can't seem to find it again.

I want to add switches for a couple of Rigid lights. I like the sPod looks but not its price. On the other hand I don't want to fry the body control module or some other sensitive electronics.

Those that have been building their own any quirks? I don't wan't any hi amp into the cab, basically I just want the switches in the cab to interrupt the 12V less than 1A each to trigger the relays.
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Old 06-02-2015, 01:27 PM   #68
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I have had no weird effects. The source voltage to the relays is straight from the battery. As far as the switched voltage from the switch panel, that is from the fuse panel. When I get home tonight I can put a scope on it and see what the voltage looks like. I'll take a pic and post it. The dimmer may be PWM but that circuit is isolated to the independent lower switch led's
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:18 PM   #69
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Power from the fuse box. At least the fuses I chose to look at all looked good. No PWM. I think maybe if you tapped into existing light circuits than you may find PWM. Just a guess based on other folks posts.

Oh, this post seems to describe the issue well. This would not apply to a diy spod since we don't source the power from the TIPM.
Clearing Up Misconceptions on the CAN Bus, PWM, and Flickering Headlights

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Old 06-02-2015, 09:01 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x1buellist View Post
I can show you this pic of the hole I cut. I basically measured the inner bezel and than used a pencil to draw the square on the dash, keeping in mind the bezel lip width so it ended up just above the speaker area.Than cut the hole Very carefully with a utility knife making several passes deeper and deeper into the plastic. I even switched the blade half way through to keep as sharp of a blade as possible. The plastic is actually pretty soft. I cut the hole a little smaller than I thought it should be than trimmed it a little at a time until the bezel was a tight fit. The hardest part for me was running the wiring harness to it. I have a manual transmission so I couldn't use the plug where the clutch pedal normally goes. I had to use a hole in the firewall right behind the battery. It is behind the firewall insulation. than ran it along the dashboard to the switches. I used a piece of tubing I slit to go around the firewall hole since it is a sharp edge that could eventually wear through the insulation of the wires. Hope that helps. I used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v and a wire tap for the dimmer circuit You can find more pics etc.. of my install here: http://norcal-jeeps.com/forum/viewto...t=781&start=10
Awesome, thanks!
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:33 AM   #71
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@Hooz any thought on hooking up an ARB compressor to this? I think I'll be ordering the Northridge kit soon.

Not sure what it draws yet though.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTHIS View Post
@Hooz any thought on hooking up an ARB compressor to this? I think I'll be ordering the Northridge kit soon.

Not sure what it draws yet though.
The box itself is rated at 80A total. If you used 4ga wire for power and ground into the box, then wired your relay(s) with the appropriate sized wire and fuse, I don't know why it wouldn't work.

The hard limit would probably then be the 35A relay. How much juice does the compressor need?

ETA: I just did some Googling on the ARB compressor, and I would suggest running it on its own relay with dedicated wiring. I read that the ARB twin draws 28A with no line/tank pressure and up to 56A with max pressure. That needs its own dedicated battery run with some decent sized cable (6ga minimum probably).
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:51 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Hooz View Post
The box itself is rated at 80A total. If you used 4ga wire for power and ground into the box, then wired your relay(s) with the appropriate sized wire and fuse, I don't know why it wouldn't work. The hard limit would probably then be the 35A relay. How much juice does the compressor need? ETA: I just did some Googling on the ARB compressor, and I would suggest running it on its own relay with dedicated wiring. I read that the ARB twin draws 28A with no line/tank pressure and up to 56A with max pressure. That needs its own dedicated battery run with some decent sized cable (6ga minimum probably).
The ARB CKMA12 draws 14.2 amps. Just looked at the tech specs.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTHIS View Post
The ARB CKMA12 draws 14.2 amps. Just looked at the tech specs.
Looks like the single motor compressor uses 13A @ 0psi and 23A @ 20psi. That probably wouldn't be a problem running it through the Bussmann box as long as you sized your wire/breaker/fuse accordingly.

The twin motor compressor is 28A @ 0psi and 50A @ 20psi. I would run that badboy on a dedicated setup.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:39 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Hooz View Post
Looks like the single motor compressor uses 13A @ 0psi and 23A @ 20psi. That probably wouldn't be a problem running it through the Bussmann box as long as you sized your wire/breaker/fuse accordingly. The twin motor compressor is 28A @ 0psi and 50A @ 20psi. I would run that badboy on a dedicated setup.
Yeah I'm not going for a twin for lockers or anything. Just a single to fill up after the beach on the weekends. The local beach we used has no air station.
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:39 AM   #76
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Glad to see others out there with the same obsession. Made my own set up on my last 2012, now applying some lessons learned on the 2015.

Last time I used Blue Sea Systems fuse block with separate GM style weatherproof relays. Took up a lot of room. This time, using the waytek relay block and day star switch panel.

I love this forum, tons of good information.



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Old 06-11-2015, 10:41 AM   #77
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Only able to add one pic at a time from my iPhone.



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Old 06-11-2015, 10:44 AM   #78
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Have t installed it yet. Probably going to have to modify something to get the day star panel to fit in my manual transmission vehicle, or so I have read.

I am planning to use the cigarette lighter circuit for the illumination of the lower independent LED on the switches. That worked out well last time, it's one of the few non canbus 12v sources in the cabin that is controlled by the ignition switch.
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Old 06-11-2015, 06:00 PM   #79
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That is going to be a tight fit to give those switches any clearance behind the shifter boot
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:56 AM   #80
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That is going to be a tight fit to give those switches any clearance behind the shifter boot
You were correct. I had to pull up and back on the center console piece and then release the shift boot. Slide that all the way up to the shift knob, then wrestle the switch panel in place.

Went in flush, then slide the shift boot assembly back in place. Good to go!!!!!
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:59 AM   #81
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:00 AM   #82
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:51 PM   #83
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Hey Hooz, thank you for the write up and the picture diagrams, I hope you don't mind that i am posting these videos to help others as wwell with the tutorial, I have credited you in the descriptions as well:
just wanted to help the community with the videos so can be a little more visual:

Here is the video tutorial showing all the directions given by pvanweeldn... Let me know what you guys think.
I made these videos to help others so they can visually see it

DIY sPOD Introduction:


Part 1 (Relay/Fuse Panel):


Part 2 (Switch Panel):


Part 3 (Installation):


Dash Panels Removal How To:
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:59 PM   #84
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Links didn't work before here are the links to the videos

Introduction of DIY sPOD
https://youtu.be/zWoYn4csc3o

Part 1 Relay Panel
https://youtu.be/gylXb1XwGZM

Part 2 Switch Panel
https://youtu.be/i54sHJJZgRY

Part 3 Installation
https://youtu.be/ZSvaVNWmin0

Dash Panels Removal
https://youtu.be/HTz1U6CiPlE
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Old 07-25-2015, 03:49 AM   #85
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Really good job on the tutorial videos. I am curious though why you didn't use the add-a fuse method, or tap in at fuse box in another way?
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:23 AM   #86
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Hey BlackburnD, thank you for your comment, I did add a inline fuse to the source line, plus I wanted to use it this way so my switches will only be on when the key is turned on.
I have seen other methods where switches are powered directly from the relay box where the switches are always hot and I didn't want that as my jeep is without the top most of the time.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:00 AM   #87
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Nice job Hooz and x1buellist.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:16 PM   #88
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Hey Hooz,

Thank you for the write up on this, I'm halfway through doing mine and I have a couple of questions that could prove I probably shouldn't be building my own. LOL

What/how are you using the Terminal Blocks?
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:03 PM
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Hey Hooz,

Thank you for the write up on this, I'm halfway through doing mine and I have a couple of questions that could prove I probably shouldn't be building my own. LOL

What/how are you using the Terminal Blocks?
The output from the 5 relays go to five of the terminals on the block. The other five terminals are jumpered and connected to ground. So when you need to hook-up a new accessory, you connect the positive to the switch/relay output you want to use and hook the negative to one of the jumpered ground terminals.

Does that make sense?
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:19 PM   #90
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I think so... I'm going to run the output (18Ga) wires from the bussman box to one side of the terminal strip, and the adjacent side of that terminal strip will be the lead out to an accessory? On the grounding terminal strip once it is jumped (wired from terminal post to terminal post and then to a ground on the vehicle) the negative wire from an accessory gets ran back to one of the grounding strip terminals?

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