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Old 03-25-2014, 06:25 PM   #1
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How do you tell "level"

Long story short--2008 JKUS, adding a winch with a mount for the factory bumper. I can level but not lift. I know Teraflex (for example) has .5, 1, and 1.5 inch front spacer pucks. But where do I check for level? I could put one of my carpenter's levels on the mid-back of the hardtop, or I could measure the space between the top of the tire and the bottom on the flare (going through the hub centerline). I figured that once I know how to judge level, I can take a floor jack and jack the front up until level and take a measurement from any fixed point to the ground. Then let the jack down, set the winch on the front bumper, and repeat that measurement, and then I'll have the amount of sag I need to "spacer" out. But gotta know how to measure level.

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Old 03-25-2014, 07:16 PM   #2
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You state that you can level but not lift. Leveling is lifting. How can you tell? Measure front and rear. There is no magic number because there are too many variables.

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Old 03-25-2014, 07:22 PM   #3
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place the winch and plate on the bumper and measure how how much it sags. ie if it sags 1" and you like how it is now put 1" spacers in for now. I have stock bumper with a rockhard 4x4 winch plate and mopar skid up front and total extra weight is about 120lbs and I sagged 1/2" with -18 springs up front.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:35 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
place the winch and plate on the bumper and measure how how much it sags. ie if it sags 1" and you like how it is now put 1" spacers in for now. I have stock bumper with a rockhard 4x4 winch plate and mopar skid up front and total extra weight is about 120lbs and I sagged 1/2" with -18 springs up front.
This, measure coil or frame to ground distance on both sides before and after placing the object (winch, armor, etc etc) in the place you want (front or rear). Optionally, account for a margin of error in case the coil keeps sagging in the months to come.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:49 PM   #5
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daggo66--was just trying to be brief, and avoid somebody suggesting a budget level/lift. The point I didn't make well is that I am leaving the back alone--just lifting up the front. I know about all the different coils that might be fitted, and with miles, sag, etc. I get that no one can tell me how much lift I need.

Here's another shot at my question. Which part of the JKU is parallel to level ground when the vehicle would be considered to be "level" by most folks. So choices might be the frame rails, the cargo floor, the hardtop top, etc. The reason I'm asking is that I have a terrible eye for this, and I don't want to end up with a "nose high" look after I spacer the front. Right now I can tell it is "nose low"--I trying to find a metric that I can use a level to tell me what truly level is (again, because my eyes stink at doing this).
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:12 PM   #6
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When i measured mine I measured based off the front leading edge of my rubi rail and the back of the rail right in front of the rear tire. (but thats just me, seemed like the most accurate way to me).
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:15 PM   #7
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I personally think the eyeball method is best as if you like the stance that is what counts. I have a rubicon and when I lay a carpenters level on the rubi rails it is level. I also get the same from the ground to the rubi rails as hunter above is explaining.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:38 PM   #8
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Great--thanks. This is a Sahara (I know, I know--my order will be a Rubicon) and there are side steps--get that will work.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #9
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If you want to use a level, put it against the rubi rail, or the tub where the rubi rail would be.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:30 PM   #10
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Great--thanks. This is a Sahara (I know, I know--my order will be a Rubicon) and there are side steps--get that will work.
yeah those should work or measure from the tub in the same spot like mentioned above.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:18 AM   #11
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There is no absolute or correct measure of being level (zero rake). As strange as it sounds it is subjective so just make as level as makes you happy, measured in which ever way you see fit.

I am not a fan of rake but it does impact fuel economy (drag) and handling (understeer).
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Old 03-26-2014, 04:47 AM   #12
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Level is at the ends of the pinch seems or rubi rails. The problem with using the flares, you end up nose high in reality.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:47 AM   #13
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If you are going to use a level, then you have to start out, by making sure that you are on a level surface, (good luck in finding one). Most driveways, or garages have a pitch for drainage.
Very few roads are level.

The best way is to just eye ball it!
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:51 AM   #14
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I am not a fan of rake but it does impact fuel economy (drag) and handling (understeer).
^^^This, it was designed that way for a purpose!!!!!!
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:32 AM   #15
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^^^This, it was designed that way for a purpose!!!!!!
agreed I actually put 1" spacers in the back of mine to gain some rake back after my lift
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:39 PM   #16
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Thanks all. I do have a flat surfaces to use (which isn't me garage floor--by code, it is slightly sloped). I think my plan is to see how much "sag" I get from just setting the winch + mount an the bumper. That will be easy to tell by measuring anywhere around the front suspension pick up points. I'll then take that number and round up to the next size spacer. That should eliminate a bit of the rake, but not all of it.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:43 PM   #17
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I put a bubble level on my rock rails. Seems to work well assuming you are on level ground.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:11 PM   #18
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Just checked net sag with winch, etc. set on bumper. It is about 5/8" at the rear portion of the bumper, so likely a little less if measured where the spacer would be on the the front spring. I suspect 1/2" spacers would keep it where it is, and 1" spacer will have just a touch of rake (I'm okay with that). Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:32 PM   #19
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I just measured my Rubicon rails. By the front tire 19.75"and the rear tire 20.75". I forgot to measure the front height before I installed my winch...

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