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Old 06-04-2014, 05:05 PM   #1
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How to burp 2014 coolant system

Hi, 2dr 2014 3.6 Willys JK owner and need help please. The coolant system definitely has some air trapped somewhere. Sounded like a waterfall at startup. Dealership said they'd never heard of this. But apparently flushed it. Slightly better. Local shop did a pressure type fill and lots better. But still there.

From what I remember from shop years ago...
1) lift up front end
2) remove cap from radiator when safely cool enough to do so
3) start engine and put heat on high so thermostat opens
4) top off at radiator

Is that still a good starting point?

What else needs to be done? From reading and searching here I've seen mentioned:
- relief valves that i need to ensure are tight
- manually burping via squeezing hoses but don't know which
- checking the heater core but don't know how

Any help is appreciated! Thank you!!!

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Old 06-04-2014, 06:03 PM   #2
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That's what I'd do. I put my front end on ramps, took the rad cap off, started it and transferred coolant rising from the radiator to the overflow. Squeeze the radiator hose as it softens and bring it up to temp. You should get some burps. I fixed mine this way.

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Old 06-04-2014, 07:59 PM   #3
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Mine sounded like a waterfall for the first few weeks when it was new and then the sound went away on its own.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:01 PM   #4
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Thanks much, Mello!!

lanslide, it's been 2 months already.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:33 PM   #5
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what makes you think you have air in the system? no heat output? fluctuating temp gauge? gurgling noises?

Chrysler recommends the use of a vacuum generating coolant filling device like an air lift coolant filler

Amazon.com: UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller: Automotive

I have never seen any of the other techs at my dealer use one though so I assume it can be done without it and just by the normal way you described....
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WredTJ View Post
From what I remember from shop years ago...
1) lift up front end
2) remove cap from radiator when safely cool enough to do so
3) start engine and put heat on high so thermostat opens
4) top off at radiator

Is that still a good starting point?
That's what I always used to do.

Just an FYI, putting the heat on high doesn't make the thermostat open. It simply (on some vehicles, depending on the HVAC configuration) opens the heater core and allows coolant to flow through it. This also enables any air to be purged from it.

In fact, opening the heater core causes the thermostat to open later than usual since the heater core reduces the coolant temperature. It is just another heat exchanger like the radiator in the front of the vehicle. Coolant passes through channels inside the heater core and radiator, and heat is transferred to (exchanged with) the air passing over the fins.

With that in mind, if your vehicle's engine ever begins overheating, turning on the heat to full blast can spare you some time to pull off the road. (Obviously, you need to pull your vehicle over ASAP when your engine overheats.)
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:20 AM   #7
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Thanks for the Amazon link n

And totally appreciate that write up and education!
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:25 AM   #8
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good read fellas.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:58 AM   #9
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Leslie makes a funnel that helps in bleeding your cooling system, it works well if it fits your radiator. I had good luck with it on one vehicle, the second vehicle I used it on it didn't fit. Here's the part # Lisle 24680 - Spill Free Funnel.
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:40 AM   #10
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Good recommendation, demarpaint.

Lisle 24680

O'Reilly Auto Parts sells it if you want to buy it locally. But Google for the many other retailers that sell it. I can't confirm it fits the Jeep, but if you see a radiator adapter in that picture that looks like a Jeep, then it probably fits. I use it on my 08' Honda Civic.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:50 PM   #11
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Awesome!!! Thanks!!
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanslide View Post
mine sounded like a waterfall for the first few weeks when it was new and then the sound went away on its own.
+1
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:03 PM   #13
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Guys we have a bleeder in the coolant system. Just run the engine till idle and loosen the bleeder to let out any air in the system, once you have coolant coming out, just close the valve and your done. The bleeder is in a tough spot, located under the air intake hose going into the engine. Pop off the engine cover and follow the coolant hose as it goes into the block. Right when it ducks under the intake before entering the block you'll see the bleeder. I wish I had a photo but its in a strange spot and hard to see. Let me know if you have any questions.

The bleeder is a phillips head cap, I used this little guy to loosen and tighten it, worked great.

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Old 06-07-2014, 07:06 AM   #14
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Thanks. I was not familiar with the Jeep's cooling system. I'll definitely remember that!
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Old 06-08-2014, 04:42 AM   #15
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That funnel to works like a champ, but some radiators it won't fit. I also found those bleeder valves don't always work 100%, and some engines have more than one bleeder. So if you use the bleeder valve method, drive a day or so and check the radiator and the recovery tank you might still find you have to add some A-Freeze. Either way just be patient with it and check your work.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:08 AM   #16
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Won't the air eventually work its way out on its own?
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:31 AM   #17
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Won't the air eventually work its way out on its own?

Eventually. The problem is it can cause hot spots especially in the heads and you sure don't want that. Others have a gurgling sound too.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:02 AM   #18
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Those funnels are pretty good!

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