I was able to pick up a used rubi sway bar system for next to nothing and am monkeying around with it.
Applying power to the motor only yielded a quick "click" with no results.
So I removed the motor and am looking at the guts of the system.
I see 2 holes, one larger than the other.
Does anyone know what they holes are and how the system works at this level?
Is there a way I can test the partially disassembled system to ensure it will still lock and unlock? I plan to order the EVO kit for it but want to verify the system (sans motor) still functions.
EDIT: Let me ask it this way....With the motor removed, should the system be locked or unlocked? Does it depend on what state it was in when it went belly up? Currently, with the motor removed, it's locked. If this is normal, then I just need to know how to unlock it (without the motor).
Normally locked (if the Jeep lost power, would it be safer to have a locked or unlocked swaybar? ), and unlocked when a variety of variables are met (one of which is pressing the swaybar unlock switch).
I'm in the process of compiling a CD containing all the schematics for the 2014. I would do the other years, but it has taken about 80 hours (approx.) just to do the 2014. I'm assuming there isn't much difference between, maybe, 2012-2014. Anyway, I can't seem to find the 2014 schematic for the swaybar unlocking system, so I shot an email to Tech Authority and hopefully they will respond today. I'll send that schematic and other electronic and diagnostic information (for the swaybar unlocker) your way whenever I get it.
(I think the link I sent you had one for 2012, IIRC.)
Hey Brian, Do you know what year Rubi that came out of? I'm in the process of compiling a CD containing all the schematics for the 2014. I would do the other years, but it has taken about 80 hours (approx.) just to do the 2014. I'm assuming there isn't much difference between, maybe, 2012-2014. Anyway, I can't seem to find the 2014 schematic for the swaybar unlocking system, so I shot an email to Tech Authority and hopefully they will respond today. I'll send that schematic and other electronic and diagnostic information (for the swaybar unlocker) your way whenever I get it. (I think the link I sent you had one for 2012, IIRC.)
Dang, I don't think they have schematics for '08s on their website. I think they actually still made those in publication format. I think the farthest they go back is 2010. I'll send you a 2010 your way whenever I get it in the next day or so, and I'll send you the troubleshooting as well. I'll be in touch.
I reviewed that thread you just posted. What year was that swaybar disconnect motor from? I wish I could be of more help. I'd rather not assume anything and throw you off track. I've never opened one of them up, so I'm no help on the mechanical aspect. I found the schematic though, although not sure it'll help much.
Edit: I'll have to send them when I get home, as work PC is not displaying the images.
I reviewed that thread you just posted. What year was that swaybar disconnect motor from? I wish I could be of more help. I'd rather not assume anything and throw you off track. I've never opened one of them up, so I'm no help on the mechanical aspect. I found the schematic though, although not sure it'll help much. Edit: I'll have to send them when I get home, as work PC is not displaying the images.
Hey, I'll take any advise I can get. Right OR wrong. LOL
The only think I can think of is that the part you push on/in is seized. Gonna hit it with penetrator all day tomorrow and unless someone has a better idea, I'm going to separate the 2 halves and see what's going on.
Hey, what's the connector look like on there (i.e., how many pins)?
If this thing is right, there should be six wires at the swaybar disconnect motor side of the connector.
One 20 ga. white whire with light-green stripe for CAN BUS +.
One 20 ga. white wire with light-blue stripe for CAN BUS -.
One 14 ga. red wire for FUSED B(+).
One 20 ga. pink wire with light green stripe for FUSED RUN/START RELAY OUTPUT
Two 14 ga. black wires for GROUND.
It seems to me that if you have both black wires grounded, and then contact the red and pink wires individually and simultaneously to battery +, then the armature should move. You said you heard just a click. Did you get B+ and GND to both circuits at the same time?
Damn. Looking at that, obviously rust was the culprit. Once it rusts, isn't that the end of it? I mean, you could get all the rust off (that would take forever), but won't it just rust again?
I hit it with about half a can of PB Blaster and then stared at it for an hour or so, trying to figure out how in the hell this thing works. A friend found some pics online that match up 100% (I think) with the assembly that I have.
That being said, I "think" I see where the issue is but am not sure just yet.
Hate to keep you in suspense, but am too tired to type it all up right now. Will update in the morning after I've had my morning coffee.
What I figured out is that the item called the "shift fork" in the picture is a floating piece in the mechanism. From what I can tell, it is seized to the opposite side from what you see this picture. Soaking it w/ PB blaster didn't free it.
I'm going to get some rust soak solution and let it sit in the solution for a day and see what happens.
As a side note, I spoke to my friend that sold me this. (It came off of his '08 Rubi that he bought earlier this year) I guess I misunderstood. I thought he told me it quit working after the harness got yanked loose. Turns out, it never worked to begin with. He thought the motor was dead (which it may be), but even if the motor was working, this this is seized to the point that it would always be locked.
I'm not upset. For $100 it's a fun project. If I can't get it working, no biggie. Was fun to figure out how this thing works.
I could see that happening. Even if disconnected, each side of axle is still attached to a sway bar. So you would be limited by the length of the sway link.
I take it you didn't take it all the way apart. Looking at those pics in that thread, there's even more guts in it.
Sounds like a member named "Get Over It" experienced the same problem as you:
I pulled the gear apart and found that every thing inside was rusty and gummed up. So I took it all apart.. Cleaned it up.. Put gear lube inside and put it all back together.Ii decided to put motor back on and try it.. Wow everything works as it should. So after buying parts.. All it needed was cleaned.
I dont think it needs to go around 360 degrees. 180 degrees sounds like more than enough to me personally. If it went more than 180 degrees I would think the bar would want to flip, but it being mechanically limited(if it is mechanically limited and not just broke) at 180 degrees keeps it from doing that. I dont know, I would have to see it installed to see, but I dont think 180 degrees of rotation would be a problem.
Thanks. The rust remover is almost black now (which means it's lost it's potency) Going to pick up a new gallon tomorrow so I can soak it in a fresh batch.
I took it out this evening, hosed it off, and washed some more gunk out of it. Also did a little filing on it to get off some tougher stuff.
Tomorrow I plan to attack it with the Dremel to get back to nice/clean metal.
The plan is to Dremel, soak, Dremel, soak, rinse, repeat.
Also found out a friend has a sandblasting business so may to that method if the Dremel doesn't work or is too much of a pain.
I figure while I have it in pieces, in addition to getting it to work, I want to get the inside back to as close to new as possible.
At this point, if I can get it working, I'm going to just go with the manual disco on it and forget about screwing w/ the motor for now.
Have some other ideas on this but will hold off going into detail until I'm further into the project.
After soaking in the rust eater for approx 12 hours the passenger side sway bar, which would only rotate 180 degrees, now turns all the way around. No binding.
Picked up some Dremel bits this morning. Time to start some grinding/sanding.
Ok. That went quickly. Once I rinsed off the parts I realized that wasn't really any rust left. Just some kind of (carbon?) buildup.
Used a wire brush on the Dremel to get it fairly clean. Then used a narrow grinding bit to go over every tooth on every gear. Rinsed off and soaking again in the rust bath just for the heck of it.
Maybe this weekend I'll get some marine grade grease (in case water ever gets in) and try to put this stupid thing back together.
Did a dry run last evening and still can't see that this thing will work. Who knows. Stay tuned for updates.
A question: what kind of gear lube should I use when I put this back together?
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