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Is it worth modifying your sahara

4K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  kjeeper10 
#1 ·
Sup guys! ! Ive got a 2013 sahara unlimited v6 3.6l
I made a decision that i dont want to get a rubicon because i have invested way to much into my car & im way to attached to it.
So my goal is to build it up the way i want it.
Atm i have a 3" bds lift with fox 2.0 racing shox, fox steering damper, procal aev, cooper stt pro 35s , front adjustable jks track bar, aftermarket power exhaust, front axle brace (gussets & trusses )

Question is what would you guys recommended me to do and whats a waste of time?
Like a pro rock 44 or rubicon dana 44 or just build up my standard sahara dana.

Jks quik disconnects or jks flex connects or currie anti rock

Thanks
 

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#2 ·
I moved your Thread to the JK Tech Forum. You should receive more response in this Forum.
 
#3 ·
Below is a friends modified Sahara.
5.5" RK lift on coilovers
Rock Jock 60s front and rear
5.13s
Atlas
LS3
PS fenders, armor, etc
42s

So at what point does it not matter what you started with?? :D

So my opinion is, all depends on what you want to do with it.
Mild wheeling on 35s then your D30 is plenty. Gusset and truss/sleeve it and have fun.





I remember when he was on factory axles and 35s, broke while wheeling then went crazy.

Good luck! :thumb:
 
#5 ·
I started with a Sahara. First mod was my GPS mount. A butt ton of money later and it's where it is today. Just be ready to change the front 30 when it goes and just keep going from there.
 
#7 ·
I also started with a Sahara. My justification was that, if and when I decided to build my Sahara for better off-road capability, I would want to upgraded front diff housing and install better lockers anyway so why spend the extra on the Rubi just to remove those parts in the future. Suspension is basically the same between the 2 as well as all the interior options.
 

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#9 ·
Im not to sure how 2 reply to individual msgs on the forum yet so for now I'll just reply like this lol.
Problem in south africa we get milked with the prices because most of the mods come from the states then to Johannesburg and then cape town.
Everyone in the club tells me to get a rubi but i dont think its worth it bcoz im going to strip the factory parts anyway.
I originally wanted 37s but my current gear ratio wouldnt handle that so i settled for 35s.
Its my every day driver so has to be safe on the road but i dont want to be limited to mild wheeling. I did a grade 3-5 trail the other day and it was pretty sick even though i almost rolled lol.

What upgrades would you recommend in order for me to make my sahara better than a rubicon?
Do you think lockers is a good investment? With my mud terrains and keeping my revs at 1500 gives me nice traction already. I have never driven a rubi with lockers so wouldnt know how it feels or how easier it is to overcome an obstacle but i kind of like the challenge with my sahara.
 
#18 ·
Im not to sure how 2 reply to individual msgs on the forum yet so for now I'll just reply like this lol. Problem in south africa we get milked with the prices because most of the mods come from the states then to Johannesburg and then cape town. Everyone in the club tells me to get a rubi but i dont think its worth it bcoz im going to strip the factory parts anyway. I originally wanted 37s but my current gear ratio wouldnt handle that so i settled for 35s. Its my every day driver so has to be safe on the road but i dont want to be limited to mild wheeling. I did a grade 3-5 trail the other day and it was pretty sick even though i almost rolled lol. What upgrades would you recommend in order for me to make my sahara better than a rubicon? Do you think lockers is a good investment? With my mud terrains and keeping my revs at 1500 gives me nice traction already. I have never driven a rubi with lockers so wouldnt know how it feels or how easier it is to overcome an obstacle but i kind of like the challenge with my sahara.
Why not save your $$$$. Buy and have it built to your exact specs here in US and ship it to South Africa already built. To me that would be best.
 
#10 ·
Since i put the fat wheels on i can feel i lost some power. 4-5 gear struggles abit. Need to hit 120 and about 3500 revs for it to change or lift foot off the pedal and then it changes. After a day of wheeling she was pulling to the right because the wheel alignment was out and the steering was off centre.
 
#11 ·
Regearing will certainly help. Lockers are not necessary and as it sounds you are doing fine without them. If you choose to go to a Rubi Dana44 later down the road you can ad a locker at that time. If your end game will be 37s 4.88 gears would be overall best for a daily driver.
 
#19 ·
@rippa77 who in the states could do that for me? Remember i need to pay the exchange rate then courier costs and then customs when it gets to SA. I wish i lived in the states **** !! Its so difficult just to find a set of jks discos here, everyones out of stock.
 
#24 ·
I modded mine. Way easier to MOD what I have than to buy one with a different package.
The Rubicon to me was not worth the extra initial cost knowing what I wanted to do it and knowing there wasn't much benefit to the Rubicon's front axle vs initial buy in price.
 
#27 ·
To me a Pro Rock is only necessary if you meet one of the following 2 conditions:

1) High Speed Offroading (I.e. - desert bombing) - not feasible for us East Coasters. - Speedy wheeling bends axle housings.
2) Will run 40" Tires

I would buy the Dana 44 with J8 tubes if you are staying at 37" or below, add gussets, and call it good. If you really want to upgrade you can get the housing and beef up the internals.
 
#28 ·
To me a Pro Rock is only necessary if you meet one of the following 2 conditions: 1) High Speed Offroading (I.e. - desert bombing) - not feasible for us East Coasters. - Speedy wheeling bends axle housings. 2) Will run 40" Tires I would buy the Dana 44 with J8 tubes if you are staying at 37" or below, add gussets, and call it good. If you really want to upgrade you can get the housing and beef up the internals.
I don't meet either of those criteria. I still upgrade mainly cuz they compensate the yoke angle for lifted JKs and this gives better driveshaft angles to reduce wear and stop that irritating high speed highway humming caused by bad DS angles.
 
#29 ·
That depends on how much you lift. I'm at 4"'lift and driveshaft angle or caster are not a concern with the J8 housing. I am on the highway all the time with no issues.
Now if you are going 5-6"+ lift then I can see the angles being a concern.

That's a lot of money to spend for no more real mechanical strength. A D44 is a D44 same axles and R&P no matter what the housing.
 
#30 ·
I don't fit any of those criterias either. I have 35s with a 3" lift but i already wana put 37s and a 2" body lift and im sure after a while i will want 40s but im happy with my 35s for now. I just really wana beef up my front axle and i want more flex.
 
#31 ·
More flex comes from more suspension. Longer shocks, or coil overs, longer drive shafts. You won't get more flex with 40s just more restriction. Unless of course you do the 6+" lift plus body lift. The bigger the tire, the bigger the lift required to maintain the same amount of flex. I am finding upward travel limits even with 37" and flat fenders. 40s is a whole new world as far as achieving flex without having to rebuild the whole suspension system and body work.
 
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