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Rock Krawer jam nuts/jig made

22K views 153 replies 24 participants last post by  SullivanM08 
#1 · (Edited)
#5 ·
Buddy had a great idea using a vise put the wrench in vise then joint in wrench then you can reef down on nut with all your weight and joint stays square. Need heavy duty vise tho.
 
#152 ·
On using your red lock tight did u just get all the parts in place check ur angles on pinion, then back off jam nuts individually and apply red locktight....? If everything ia good how likely do I need to take it to a shop for them to align? I'll need them to make a Weld for me at the least on the relocation bracket. 3.5"xfactor going in. Thanks.
 
#10 ·
In my experience there's nothing "permanent" about red locktite anyway. At most it'll take a little heat to loosen it up. I've only had to resort to that a couple times. Hey, what arms are those?

I agree .. Never had issues with red using larger bolts. Only smaller bolts and/or too much.

Rock Krawer
 
#11 ·
Wait a minuet locktite on the jam nuts ? I thought the big boy pants torquing was enough. FMR
 
#12 ·
Rock Krawler says both and they probably have a reason. They told me red locktite.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Nothing should move at 300 foot-pounds. So ...... What are you guys using for wrenches. Also best way to tighten ie on jeep, off n vice? I saw somewhere a dude mounted them backwards on the jeep to tighten things up.
I did mine on the jeep. With one side bolted in. Are those RKs new arms? They are a PIA to get the joint lined up cause it moves while you tighten the jam nut. I had one person hold the krawler joint in place with a big box wench while I tightened the nut with a 2 foot adjustable wrench. Still not perfect. At a minimum you need something to hole the arm in place and something to hold the krawler joint in place while you tighten. This is why I didn't use locktite, it took a few tries.

This is my one grip about RK arms. No good documented process to do this jam nut tightening.
 
#15 ·
I tightened mine using a bench vise and either a open/box wrench or adjustable wrench. I also used a stock arm, put it behind the RK arm, put a stock bolt thru the one into the other and clamped that joint to the bench top, kept the joint I was working on from rotating to bad.

I tried to adjust one on the jeep, there was no room to get the wrench in there.
 
#16 ·
I tightened mine using a bench vise and either a open/box wrench or adjustable wrench. I also used a stock arm, put it behind the RK arm, put a stock bolt thru the one into the other and clamped that joint to the bench top, kept the joint I was working on from rotating to bad. I tried to adjust one on the jeep, there was no room to get the wrench in there.
Thank you :thumb:
 
#17 ·
This was my least favorite part of my install. I still am nervous that my tightness is inadequate. I put the joint in my old axle and tried to tighten as tight as possible. More often than not the joint would turn and I'd have to start over. What sucks is you can't really check the torque with them installed by crawling under the Jeep. Just not enough room to use big wrenches, not to mention the front lowers aren't really accessible with the jeep on the ground.

Also noticed in the photos of your control arms one of your lower joints is going to have the zerk facing the ground. you sure you want to do that?
 
#18 · (Edited)
This was my least favorite part of my install. I still am nervous that my tightness is inadequate. I put the joint in my old axle and tried to tighten as tight as possible. More often than not the joint would turn and I'd have to start over. What sucks is you can't really check the torque with them installed by crawling under the Jeep. Just not enough room to use big wrenches, not to mention the front lowers aren't really accessible with the jeep on the ground. Also noticed in the photos of your control arms one of your lower joints is going to have the zerk facing the ground. you sure you want to do that?
Good eye .. If they end up the sane length I will have to. I am super anal about measuring/lengths and one arm was cut 3/16 longer than the other. Another set 1/8 but that just means a full turn, the zerk ends up facing the same direction. Those are the rear lowers and the zerk will be protected by the Rockstar skid anyways.
 
#21 ·
That's what I use as well. I carry that thing everywhere in 2 sizes. Very useful tool
 
#23 ·
I put mine in a vise and tightened it with a pipe wrench, it was the biggest think i could find that would fit (most leverage).
 
#28 ·
Checked out the pic on JKO. To bad I just finished putting the lift on. Oh well. Looks like I got some welding to do. Now just to go rummage thru my scrap pile to see what I can use. Sure I can use it later on.
 
#31 ·
In the pic it looks like he has it on the back side of the Krawler joint to keep it from twisting.
 
#34 ·
oh yea. I need to find one in 1 5/16" or 32mm (can grind down just a tad to fit)
 
#42 ·
For the rest of us, it should be simpler RK.
 
#50 ·
they are if you want to do them right. Seems like the easiest solution would be if the manufacturers would put flats on them but I suppose that extras step would raise the price $5
 
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