Buddy had a great idea using a vise put the wrench in vise then joint in wrench then you can reef down on nut with all your weight and joint stays square. Need heavy duty vise tho.
I don't know if you remember Goodysgotacuda from JKO?
He had a nice jig he made up. He sold the jeep and is no longer on the forum. Pics don't work either
The jam nut on the front trackbar seems nearly impossible to adequately tighten with the trackbar installed. The back wasn't too hard. I used red locktite on both. So far so good.
On using your red lock tight did u just get all the parts in place check ur angles on pinion, then back off jam nuts individually and apply red locktight....? If everything ia good how likely do I need to take it to a shop for them to align? I'll need them to make a Weld for me at the least on the relocation bracket. 3.5"xfactor going in. Thanks.
In my experience there's nothing "permanent" about red locktite anyway. At most it'll take a little heat to loosen it up. I've only had to resort to that a couple times.
In my experience there's nothing "permanent" about red locktite anyway. At most it'll take a little heat to loosen it up. I've only had to resort to that a couple times. Hey, what arms are those?
Nothing should move at 300 foot-pounds. So ...... What are you guys using for wrenches. Also best way to tighten ie on jeep, off n vice? I saw somewhere a dude mounted them backwards on the jeep to tighten things up.
I did mine on the jeep. With one side bolted in. Are those RKs new arms? They are a PIA to get the joint lined up cause it moves while you tighten the jam nut. I had one person hold the krawler joint in place with a big box wench while I tightened the nut with a 2 foot adjustable wrench. Still not perfect. At a minimum you need something to hole the arm in place and something to hold the krawler joint in place while you tighten. This is why I didn't use locktite, it took a few tries.
This is my one grip about RK arms. No good documented process to do this jam nut tightening.
I tightened mine using a bench vise and either a open/box wrench or adjustable wrench. I also used a stock arm, put it behind the RK arm, put a stock bolt thru the one into the other and clamped that joint to the bench top, kept the joint I was working on from rotating to bad.
I tried to adjust one on the jeep, there was no room to get the wrench in there.
I tightened mine using a bench vise and either a open/box wrench or adjustable wrench. I also used a stock arm, put it behind the RK arm, put a stock bolt thru the one into the other and clamped that joint to the bench top, kept the joint I was working on from rotating to bad. I tried to adjust one on the jeep, there was no room to get the wrench in there.
This was my least favorite part of my install. I still am nervous that my tightness is inadequate. I put the joint in my old axle and tried to tighten as tight as possible. More often than not the joint would turn and I'd have to start over. What sucks is you can't really check the torque with them installed by crawling under the Jeep. Just not enough room to use big wrenches, not to mention the front lowers aren't really accessible with the jeep on the ground.
Also noticed in the photos of your control arms one of your lower joints is going to have the zerk facing the ground. you sure you want to do that?
This was my least favorite part of my install. I still am nervous that my tightness is inadequate. I put the joint in my old axle and tried to tighten as tight as possible. More often than not the joint would turn and I'd have to start over. What sucks is you can't really check the torque with them installed by crawling under the Jeep. Just not enough room to use big wrenches, not to mention the front lowers aren't really accessible with the jeep on the ground. Also noticed in the photos of your control arms one of your lower joints is going to have the zerk facing the ground. you sure you want to do that?
Good eye .. If they end up the sane length I will have to. I am super anal about measuring/lengths and one arm was cut 3/16 longer than the other. Another set 1/8 but that just means a full turn, the zerk ends up facing the same direction. Those are the rear lowers and the zerk will be protected by the Rockstar skid anyways.
Checked out the pic on JKO. To bad I just finished putting the lift on. Oh well. Looks like I got some welding to do. Now just to go rummage thru my scrap pile to see what I can use. Sure I can use it later on.
Just to update I found the crows foot attachments the best to use.
The big adjustable crescent wanted to round the nuts.
Crows foot plus breaker bar = win
they are if you want to do them right. Seems like the easiest solution would be if the manufacturers would put flats on them but I suppose that extras step would raise the price $5
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