Hi, I am new to this forum. I am about to replace my passenger side exhaust manifold and would like some tips. I have found information on the driver side which seems easer because of less stuff in the way. Is there anything i should be careful of, or replace while it is taken apart?
I don't know if you are done with the exhaust replacement, but if you are not done, then it is worth mentioning the right under the exhaust pipe and stuck to engine 2, if I remember correctly, Negative cable attached to the engine block.
Remove them, clean them as best as you can and put them back.
Most electrical strange things happen because of negative bad connections.
Pull the passenger inner Fender liner. That way you can get at the manifold bolts directly. You have to be VERY careful removing the manifold bolts from the cylinder head. If they are seriously rusted/corroded you can fairly easily snap them off. If you do you'll have a very difficult time getting them out short of removing the head completely. I used a product called CRC Freeze-Off, which is a combination penetrating oil and chilling agent. It worked great. The bolts are only torqued to about 16.5 ft lbs. Just go easy backing them out. You also have to get the two down pipe bolts off, these need to be soaked well before removing. If you're lucky all the bolts will come out without drama.
Going back get all the surfaces squeaky clean. If you use new factory manifold bolts clean the waxy thread locker off completely. Use anti-seize on the bolts going back in. A little goes a long way. Torque from the inside out, going up in three steps. Do the down pipe last, torque to 20 ft lbs. re torque at 100 and 500 miles and you'll be good for about 50k miles before the casting cracks again.
Wanted to add that the cheapskates at Chrysler used bolts with no washers to hold the manifolds on, rather than proper studs, lock washers and nuts. A buddy put his back on that way and recommends it.
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